Take any non-safety chain and regrind it to the Malloff grind. Maintain at least a 6 degree raker angle and maybe more. Assuming you have a grinder. Your local saw shop will not have a clue about ripping chain or raker angles.
Bailey's ripping chain is a good place to start but its angles are not optimal for speed.
While I generally agree that my local shop doesn't have much clue about ripping chain, there is a guy there who was an aircraft mechanic for a while as well as a high school shop teacher, so he tends to know a bit more than one would expect. Is a grinder something I can expect the saw shop to have?
They mentioned that they could not make skip chain for me because they didn't have the equipment, but I am not sure if that's the same thing as what you are describing. I don't know what a typical piece of sharpening equipment looks like in a standard shop (whether it's what you are calling a grinder or if it's something else).
Is a Malloff grind the same as Granberg? I think that's what you're saying here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/193938-2.htm but I am not certain of that. I couldn't find Malloff grinds on the web.
In general, I was getting pretty smooth cuts with the setup I was using before (Granberg chain in most cases on a 30-something inch bar using a Magnum 440 in 20" red oak that had been lying on the ground about 18 months). It was taking around 20 minutes to make it from one end of a 10 foot log to the other with that setup. Then I had the saw shop make another chain for me (I had borrowed the setup from a close friend and wanted to send home an extra chain as thank-you). They didn't have Granberg and they couldn't grind skips in the chain (at least, that's what I recall), so I just had them make me a standard chain. I can't remember if I had them sharpen it in any special way, though they did know I was using it for milling. That chain took 12 minutes to make it's first cut, then slowed down SIGNIFICANTLY on cuts thereafter (it seemed like it cut way faster when new, but slowed at a much quicker rate on subsequent cuts than the Granberg).
In all cases, it seemed like the smoothness was similar. I did find that using rails on every cut worked well, not only because my feeling was that they would tend to smooth out the surface (as BobL said in the same thread I referred to above) but also because they gave me a handy surface from which to hang the saw when I started the cut (which is where, in the past, I have had the most planing work to do). I would prefer smooth to fast, I guess, because I will likely use most lumber I make for furniture, so any time I gain in the woods in exchange for rougher cuts will cost me more in the shop on the planer (plus, as BobL pointed out, it may also cost more wood in the long run).
So, given my situation: Alaskan Mill mounted on a (variable length/nose type) bar attached to an 075 power head. I would rather go a little slower and get smoother results as mentioned. I am happy to use a Malloff grind if I can, A: figure out/understand what it is and, B: find someone who can make it for me. While I very much like the idea of sharpening/grinding my own chain, I currently don't want to spend the time/space/money to do so and, also, frankly I have learned enough about myself over the years to wonder if I am ready, at this point in my life, to be meticulous enough to do a proper job of it. Given those facts, I would prefer to pay $5 to have my local shop sharpen chain for me (also, it pays, in my experience, to maintain a good relationship with my local dealer).
I have to say that I am SO grateful to have found this wealth of knowledge and willing help. Thanks.