Chainsaw Milling 19” black walnut

[caulfi1]

Hello, had to have a black walnut taken down in my backyard, really want to try and mill the trunks and dry them at home. Have been reading threads and watching videos to prepare. Right now they are in 10’ sections, around 19” diameter. They were cut a couple of days ago, but has been raining, going to put wood sealer on ends once it stops.Was planning on using a Husqvarna 460 rancher with 24” bar and ripping chain, with a milling attachment. Would this be sufficient? Was going to sticker, stack, seal with anchor seal in basement. Is this ok or does it need to be outside first? Do I need to spray for fungus/pests?

 

[caulfi1]

Also forget to say that i was planning on 2” dry, what size would I need to cut, 2 1/4? Thanks for any input!

 

[Franny K]

I don't think walnut cracks bad from the ends and anchor seal is supposed to be used essentially immediately. It is like wax parafin sort of but brushable. You won't be able to write on the ends. I would think small chain like change the nose to .325 and run NK. If you have a wood stove and a fan in the basement and a winter season but outside for a while, no rain and little sun. If it is knot free walnut seems to dry flat for me. I don't remember how much it shrinks probably not excessively will depend on how the moisture count is at the start.

 

[Mad Professor]

Stickered, stacked and covered on top outside, in the shade during summer

 

[caulfi1]

Thanks for the input, yes I will store outside, is it worth to occasionally spray something like tim-bor on them to prevent mold/pests?

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Tim-bor is always worth using as a preventative if there are no signs of bugs already in the wood. As far as the saw setup, you'll probably only get about 18" of width with a 24" bar. As Franny K suggested, you want some kind of narrow kerf chain to get away with running a 460, requiring a dedicated setup of matching drive sprocket and bar. I've milled plenty of 15-19" mesquite which is far denser and harder than walnut with a 64cc Makita and 3/8LP, but I have dedicated LP bar and drive sprocket setups which are hard to come by outside of ordering them from the UK. Here are a couple of complete setups in 24 and 28" with the K095 mount for the 460.

https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/uhds25-50wr-kit-2463cm-gb-lo-pro-milling-kitdouble-slot/
https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/uhds28-50wr-kit-2871cm-gb-lo-pro-milling-kitdouble-slot/

 

[Chainsaw Bandito]

I am in the same process right now. I had a diseased walnut taken down in my yard last year. The bug (ants mainly) residents are still alive and well this year as I am cutting it. They evacuate as I cut though so I haven't had issues with them and there was already a good bit of damage so I didnt want to spend money treating it.

I did not seal the ends and since I am flat sawing cupping is an issue. I am currently stickering them in a van.

I would have been proactive sealing the ends if I could have last autumn when the tree was cut.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Proper stickering and stacking is essential, but unless you strap the hell out of them too there's a good chance you'll end up losing more than 1/4" to cupping/twisting. I'd use at least 5 cheap ratcheting straps on a 10' section, keep retightening them every week til the wood stops shrinking. After turning my operation into some kind of crossfit gym of heavy blocks to weigh things down with, I eventually learned strapping pressure provided way more flattening pressure with far less hassle than static weight. Cheap straps do stretch a lot though so the more the better.

 

[Mad Professor]

Proper stickering and stacking is essential, but unless you strap the hell out of them too there's a good chance you'll end up losing more than 1/4" to cupping/twisting. I'd use at least 5 cheap ratcheting straps on a 10' section, keep retightening them every week til the wood stops shrinking. After turning my operation into some kind of crossfit gym of heavy blocks to weigh things down with, I eventually learned strapping pressure provided way more flattening pressure with far less hassle than static weight. Cheap straps do stretch a lot though so the more the better.

Another thing that works with stacking and stickers is putting rows of thicker material on top, I usually use some lower grade 8/4 planks, then another row of stickers and beams on top of that.

I end up with 6 X 6 and 8 X 8" beams with the pith centered I save for timber frame projects. Not always the same wood I'm cutting into boards/grade, but they make great weights at the top of the stacks and winds are not going to blow them off.

Banding works great if you can get the type used in commercial mills. I worked at one for a while and the banders had huge rolls of metal banding material on wheeled carts, and ratcheting banders that tightened the band, cut it, and crimped it tight. A few of those bands and you could pick up/move the whole stack with a loader and set of forks. Whole stack stayed perfectly stacked.

I never had much problems drying walnut.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I never had much problems drying walnut.

I've been European stacking the last couple of trees (30-32" poplar and sycamore) which seems to have worked out decently with a lot of strapping but I do like the idea of heavier beams as top pieces on a stack. I put some beam size limb pieces on top of my main trunk stack of poplar. Walnut is supposed to be really stable so like you say it should have the least problems drying. Always have liked the idea of metal banding just don't mill enough to justify investing in it.