paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
I am interested in getting a portable chainsaw mill. Does anyone have any advice ( good or bad ) on purchasing one? How safe are they? Do they work as well as advertised?
chainsaw mills
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HUSKYMAN
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Talk to Kevin at the Milling Masters. He is a member of this board and the resident milling expert
Newfie
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Hi Paul,
Welcome to the forum. Huskyman is right about Kevin, he is the resident expert and has been a good source of help and info.
I have been milling for about a year and am very pleased with the results. I have been able to produce dimensional softwood lumber as well as a thousand BF of 1 by stock.
I bought the 24" alsakan III, would probably get a 36" if I had to do it over, just to have the extra capacity. I also bought the Mini-Mill which is indispensable in quickly squaring up a cant.
The whole process is hard work and is dusty, loud and hot during the summer, but the end product is amazing if you pay attention to the set up details. I use a Husky 3120xp for the main milling and a 288xp lite for the mini mill. Milling is hard work on a saw so a quality powerhead is essential.
I'm not sure what your specific safety concerns are, but it is as safe as using any large chainsaw as long as you pay attention to what you are doing.
The best part of chainsaw milling is that the system is VERY portable and fairly affordable compared to the less portable and more expensive bandmills. Hope this helps.
Welcome to the forum. Huskyman is right about Kevin, he is the resident expert and has been a good source of help and info.
I have been milling for about a year and am very pleased with the results. I have been able to produce dimensional softwood lumber as well as a thousand BF of 1 by stock.
I bought the 24" alsakan III, would probably get a 36" if I had to do it over, just to have the extra capacity. I also bought the Mini-Mill which is indispensable in quickly squaring up a cant.
The whole process is hard work and is dusty, loud and hot during the summer, but the end product is amazing if you pay attention to the set up details. I use a Husky 3120xp for the main milling and a 288xp lite for the mini mill. Milling is hard work on a saw so a quality powerhead is essential.
I'm not sure what your specific safety concerns are, but it is as safe as using any large chainsaw as long as you pay attention to what you are doing.
The best part of chainsaw milling is that the system is VERY portable and fairly affordable compared to the less portable and more expensive bandmills. Hope this helps.
Dennis
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Hey there Paul, welcome...yep Kevin is the man when it comes to milling, but I will say a few good words for the Jonsered 600+ mini sawmill...I did demos all over British Columbia with that mill and the ease of use, and setup...were in my opinion...one of the best...granted, its not as quick of a set up as the Alaskan,...but, the ease of use..is tops...I regret selling mine just about everyday...
Newfie
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Dennis,
I saw one of those back in May at a logging show. I like the idea of the track and carriage. My question for the demonstrator was regarding the flex that there appeared to be in the bar as it traveled down the log. Is that a function of a cheap bar or what? He didn't seem to have an answer for me. Are they kind a pricey?
Hope your karma's hanging in there! I had one of your days yesterday, as a 90 foot , 30 inch DBH pine tried to eat my 3120. Powerhead survived, but I got a 32 inch bar bent about 3 different directions. It was tough to leave that saw there but easier to buy a saw than a new life.
She seems to run good this morning with new bar, mounting studs seem fine, anything else I should check? No visible signs of damage, nothing leaked overnight. Sorry to go off topic.
I saw one of those back in May at a logging show. I like the idea of the track and carriage. My question for the demonstrator was regarding the flex that there appeared to be in the bar as it traveled down the log. Is that a function of a cheap bar or what? He didn't seem to have an answer for me. Are they kind a pricey?
Hope your karma's hanging in there! I had one of your days yesterday, as a 90 foot , 30 inch DBH pine tried to eat my 3120. Powerhead survived, but I got a 32 inch bar bent about 3 different directions. It was tough to leave that saw there but easier to buy a saw than a new life.
She seems to run good this morning with new bar, mounting studs seem fine, anything else I should check? No visible signs of damage, nothing leaked overnight. Sorry to go off topic.tony marks
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glad u made the right choice.
been me and i had a 3120.
been tough to do. im older now so think ida made the right choice also. was a time ,i dont know. figured out a long time ago
my time is my time . not before, and no duckin it either. rather haveit quick as what some o my customers having to deal with.one died on the 5th o june.
5-20 her husband put the 38 to his head.both in their 80s. sorry for going on . just still in my mind.
been me and i had a 3120.
been tough to do. im older now so think ida made the right choice also. was a time ,i dont know. figured out a long time ago
my time is my time . not before, and no duckin it either. rather haveit quick as what some o my customers having to deal with.one died on the 5th o june.
5-20 her husband put the 38 to his head.both in their 80s. sorry for going on . just still in my mind.
Kevin
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Hi Paul, these guys are laying it on a little thick, .
What mill did you have in mind?
The only chainsaw mills I have any experience with are the Alaskan and the Mini Mill.
You can see some pictures of both in use at the site below.
We`ll be glad to help you if we can.
.What mill did you have in mind?
The only chainsaw mills I have any experience with are the Alaskan and the Mini Mill.
You can see some pictures of both in use at the site below.
We`ll be glad to help you if we can.
artwood
ArboristSite Operative
Jonsered 600 mill
I have one of the Jonsered mills & have experienced the flex Newfie mentioned. Sometimes the flex when hitting a knot throughs off the cut, ruining the board. No one has been able to explain what to do about it yet, so I've been using the Alaskan mill.
Eric
I have one of the Jonsered mills & have experienced the flex Newfie mentioned. Sometimes the flex when hitting a knot throughs off the cut, ruining the board. No one has been able to explain what to do about it yet, so I've been using the Alaskan mill.
Eric
Dennis
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Hey..yeah I have seen that flex as well...mostly in hard/frozen wodd..when you hit a knot..I dont think it can be avoided until you solidify the tip...what we did when ripping lumber was build a bracket that came off the other side of the carriage..and basically "c clamped" the tip...ya lose some length...but who rips lumber 20" wide anyway? for the most part...
the ideal situation I have seen with that mill...is a couple extra sections of track (hand built as they are costly) and a chainsaw setup on one end... then the bandsaw on the other...both running on the same track...very slick...use the chainsaw to cant and clean..then band to cut lumber...
I still like the 600+ very much...and will be getting another...
the ideal situation I have seen with that mill...is a couple extra sections of track (hand built as they are costly) and a chainsaw setup on one end... then the bandsaw on the other...both running on the same track...very slick...use the chainsaw to cant and clean..then band to cut lumber...
I still like the 600+ very much...and will be getting another...
artwood
ArboristSite Operative
Dennis,
That C clamp idea to fix the nose sounds interesting. My mill is for sale if you're interested.
Eric
That C clamp idea to fix the nose sounds interesting. My mill is for sale if you're interested.
Eric
Dennis
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shipping is gonna suck from Idaho...but email me...I have an Uncle who travels every all over with his lowbed...maybe able to make a deal somewhere..
paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks to everyone for their input.
Kevin, the only mills that I have looked at are the Alaskan, probably because there is alot of info out there on them. What is the smallest saw/ bar combo recommended for the 24 and 36 inch mills? I'm wanting to buy a new saw (probably Husky) but was not planning on buying a real big one because I already have a couple big saws ( Pioneer P-60,s ) Don't know if they will work or not? I guess if I had to. I could be talked in to buying another big saw I'll just have to move into the garage with it for a while. I'm a little concerned about the flex in the other mill mentioned but would be willing to give it a try. Thanks again for everyones advise and input. I,m relatively new to the chainsaw world compared to you guys and it,s nice to be able to learn from people who know what they're doing. Most local people can't tell you anything that's not printed on the side of the box or in a promotional ad.
Kevin, the only mills that I have looked at are the Alaskan, probably because there is alot of info out there on them. What is the smallest saw/ bar combo recommended for the 24 and 36 inch mills? I'm wanting to buy a new saw (probably Husky) but was not planning on buying a real big one because I already have a couple big saws ( Pioneer P-60,s ) Don't know if they will work or not? I guess if I had to. I could be talked in to buying another big saw I'll just have to move into the garage with it for a while. I'm a little concerned about the flex in the other mill mentioned but would be willing to give it a try. Thanks again for everyones advise and input. I,m relatively new to the chainsaw world compared to you guys and it,s nice to be able to learn from people who know what they're doing. Most local people can't tell you anything that's not printed on the side of the box or in a promotional ad.
Kevin
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Paul, determine what size the logs will be that you are planning to mill and that will pretty much tell you what size of saw you can get away with.
You can get by with a saw in the 60-70cc range if you keep your cant size 14" and smaller.
I wouldn`t mill with a saw smaller than that.
Easier in softwood and much harder on you and the saw in hardwood.
You lose about 4" of bar with the Alaskan so if you have a 20" bar you can mill a cant about 16".
Something to consider is you don`t want to clamp over the nose sprocket in the bar but you can if you must, I prefer using a longer bar and keeping the nose sprocket clear of the clamp.
You have to clamp directly over the rivet and always check to make sure the chain will run free by hand before trying to mill with it.
Your saw should have a side chain tensioner or you`ll be removing the mill to make any chain adjustments (big pain).
I use two saws, one on the mini mill and one on the Alaskan, it saves a lot of time!
You can get by with a saw in the 60-70cc range if you keep your cant size 14" and smaller.
I wouldn`t mill with a saw smaller than that.
Easier in softwood and much harder on you and the saw in hardwood.
You lose about 4" of bar with the Alaskan so if you have a 20" bar you can mill a cant about 16".
Something to consider is you don`t want to clamp over the nose sprocket in the bar but you can if you must, I prefer using a longer bar and keeping the nose sprocket clear of the clamp.
You have to clamp directly over the rivet and always check to make sure the chain will run free by hand before trying to mill with it.
Your saw should have a side chain tensioner or you`ll be removing the mill to make any chain adjustments (big pain).
I use two saws, one on the mini mill and one on the Alaskan, it saves a lot of time!
paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
Can you use a solid tip bar or is a sprocket tip recommended? I have both for different things but one is a 32 inch sprocket tip bar that is larger than most anything I can imagine milling,at least to start off. I would probably start off milling some soft wood but would also like to try some mesquite ( hard and often very dirty)
The P-60's that I have are 6.0 C.I. saws I think about 95cc so they should work but if not I'll make sure the Husky that I get is at least that big.
I'm going to spend some time on the site you listed and find out about prices etc.
The P-60's that I have are 6.0 C.I. saws I think about 95cc so they should work but if not I'll make sure the Husky that I get is at least that big.
I'm going to spend some time on the site you listed and find out about prices etc.
Kevin
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Paul, you can use a solid tip bar but I wouldn`t recommend it because there is a lot of heat generated.
If you plan on milling with anything longer than a 28" bar you might also consider an additional oiler ...
My primary milling bar is 28" on the 24" Alaskan.
If you plan on milling with anything longer than a 28" bar you might also consider an additional oiler ...
My primary milling bar is 28" on the 24" Alaskan.
paul hill
ArboristSite Operative
with the bars that I have been able to get my choices are 24 or 32 inch. Would you still recommend the oiler if the saw has an automatic and manual oiler. Is it for the amount of oil needed on the bar for extended cuts or heat or both? Nice picture.Thanks
Kevin
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If you`re milling large cants in excess of 20" on a regular basis you should have the extra oil.
Your chain is only getting lubricated near the saw and by the time that part of the chain gets back to where it picks up more oil it gets pretty hot and causes damage to the bar and chain.
Your chain is only getting lubricated near the saw and by the time that part of the chain gets back to where it picks up more oil it gets pretty hot and causes damage to the bar and chain.
don
ArboristSite Guru
Checking out a mill
Looking to mill some pine up at a cabin.
Never milled before and wanting to know what I need to have except for the saw.
Should I ask around and try to find new or used equipment.
Should I even attempt at building a portable mill like an Alaskan or 600?
Know of a good/great book?
Looking to mill some pine up at a cabin.
Never milled before and wanting to know what I need to have except for the saw.
Should I ask around and try to find new or used equipment.
Should I even attempt at building a portable mill like an Alaskan or 600?
Know of a good/great book?
Newfie
Addicted to ArboristSite
It depends on what you think your time is worth and factor in the enjoyment or chore of fabricating. You can pick up a new Alaskan for $150 to $180 depending on how wide of a board you want to be able to mill. Bailey's has 'em.
don
ArboristSite Guru
Newfie the millinator!
What type of setup are you using? What wood have you cut?
Also, extra things I would like to know about or should do ...
Run 32:1
Extra oiler for bar tip ... how to attach to bar ... do I need to drill a hole?
Initial line up of appraratus / mill. etc.
Did you learn all of this from a trial and error? Did you read or get the experience working with someone?
What type of setup are you using? What wood have you cut?
Also, extra things I would like to know about or should do ...
Run 32:1
Extra oiler for bar tip ... how to attach to bar ... do I need to drill a hole?
Initial line up of appraratus / mill. etc.
Did you learn all of this from a trial and error? Did you read or get the experience working with someone?
