Hi Don,
I'll try and share what little knowledge I have with you. Kevin is the real expert around here. Where is Kevin anyways?
"What type of setup are you using? What wood have you cut?"
I have been using a 30" Alaskan that I got from Baileys with their in house rip chain .375 .050 (not the lo-pro but I have heard that is good). I think it is Carlton chain that they use, it has an A-1 on the tangs. I use a 3120 and a 288 depending on the size of the log. I've cut red and white pine, about 3 MBF ranging from 8 inch logs to 30 inch logs. I also got one of those mini-mills which is real nice for getting three squared sides real fast and edging boards from the face cuts.
"Also, extra things I would like to know about or should do ..."
I'd get a cant hook or peavey for moving logs around. Also plenty of dry stickers to stack your wood and some overhead cover to keep the weather off and some weight to put on the pile to promote good straight boards. I use 16x8x8 block every 16 inches when doing 1x and every 24 when doing 2x's or beams. A tarp works just OK for a cover but can tend to trap moisture in the stack leading to some degrade and staining. I also endcoat with anchorseal to prevent checking, but as you can probably tell I'm getting really anal about the whole process.
"Run 32:1"
I don't but have been thinking about it but every time I think I understand the debates about that subject I get lost again. I may try it the next time I mill. Have 8 MBF of pine out back waiting for me.
"Extra oiler for bar tip ... how to attach to bar ... do I need to drill a hole?"
The auxiliary oiler is real easy to set up and I use it when I run my 32 inch bar. You do have to drill the bar but as long as you lay out the whole properly and use a cobalt bit it is a breeze.
"Did you learn all of this from a trial and error? Did you read or get the experience working with someone?"
I've gotten advice here, perused other forums(I'll email or PM later w/ those) and checked out the info that Granberg offers. Most of the books that talk about milling in the process of drying wood just gloss over it and aren't really helpful. There is a book by Maloof (sp.?) on Chainsw Milling and is supposed to be the bible but it is out of print but you might be able to get a hold of a copy at the library.
I'm sure there is a million other things to tell you but I can't think of any at the moment.
Ryan,
"how long does it take to make a single pass through 20'' pine with a sharp chain and a stock 066,088, 395 or 3120??? just to avoid the "is it frozen" debate, we will say 50-70f out side "
I haven't noticed any difference when frozen but a definite difference with the red pine when dry versus green. Green always mills faster. On an eight foot log 20" board with rip chain on a 3120 i would estimate it takes about a minute to make the actual cut give or take. Haven't done any "time trials" but small wood and really big wood are more time consuming for baoard footage. I usually can mill 50 -70 BF an hour of 1x white pine 8-12 inches wide.
