Chainsaw restoration questions (Jonsered 451 EV)

[Cantdog]

Good to know, thanks. I did try and buff the parts (scratch-x meguiars usually works) but didn't seem to want to work this time. Maybe wax will help.

May have to get more aggressive and use a small polishing wheel mounted in a drill or similar....the original paint is pretty thick and tough.

 

[DennisCA]

I have a polished and I went at it with that one last night but alas, no deeper color, only shinier. Good enough for now I guesss.

One disappointing thing about this saw is that the heated coils from the front handle are gone. It's just an empty tube. Heating element is present in the rear handle. The front handle might not be original or it's been emptied out.

The serial for the saw is 1053344 by the way and based on people I talked to this means it's an early saw, 76 or 77. Older than me (81)!

 

[Cantdog]

That's to bad about the missing heating element in the top handle. Be very careful of the switch as they are nearly impossible to find. Perhaps keep an eye out for an inexpensive parts saw with a good top handle and maybe a spare switch too.

 

[DennisCA]

If you mean the switch to turn the heating element on and off, I am afraid I got bad news. It looked like a kind of typical switch to me, figured a replacement would be possible. I will have to look into this further. Am on the lookout for a spare parts saw too.

Good news, mic'ed the the cylinder bore and it specs out at 42.00 mm, 41.99 mm sometimes so it seems to have little to no wear.

 

[Cantdog]

Yes the switch for the heat is what I was speaking of. On the 451ev you can likely find some kind of replacement, it's just hard to find one with as short a toggle....most have long toggles and easily get broken or swtiched on or off by brush etc. But I'm sure you can come up with something since it's simply an on/of switch. On the 521ev it's way more of an issue as they have a high/off/low/ type switch and these are also extremely hard to find.

 

[bama]

That's to bad about the missing heating element in the top handle. Be very careful of the switch as they are nearly impossible to find. Perhaps keep an eye out for an inexpensive parts saw with a good top handle and maybe a spare switch too.

I was able to adapt a switch used for disarming a remote start system. Fit the hole and I think I found clips that connected to the stator wires. But, that was almost 15 years ago……

 

[DennisCA]

Got the seals pulled, took a while, been busy. I drilled holes and inserted a hook (rounded off so it's not so sharp) under the metal, then used a slide hammer.

The seals I measured to be 20mm OD, 4mm thick and the shaft diameter is 12mm.

Been cleaning it more and it's starting to look better. Still I am wondering if it'd be safe to soak it in some detergent solution and blow it dry later with the compressor, or if that might do damage.

 

[Cantdog]

Got the seals pulled, took a while, been busy. I drilled holes and inserted a hook (rounded off so it's not so sharp) under the metal, then used a slide hammer.

The seals I measured to be 20mm OD, 4mm thick and the shaft diameter is 12mm.

Been cleaning it more and it's starting to look better. Still I am wondering if it'd be safe to soak it in some detergent solution and blow it dry later with the compressor, or if that might do damage.

For internal bearing/crankcase cleaning stay with either mixed gas or diesel. Needs to be an oil so it doesn't dry out when you're done. As I said earlier the most crud will be on the outside of the bearings behind the seals. A citrus based cleaner is fine for the outside of the cases but not inside. A single rust pit in any of the bearing surfaces will cause bearing failure in time......keep your bearing surfaces covered with a thin film of oil.

 

[DennisCA]

The saw is back together. New seals, new fuel lines, new piston ring.

The saw lost some bolts over the years so I gotta gte some new ones, such as there's only one bolt holdling the rear of the assembly for the front hande on the right side.

It runs! But needs adjustement yet and I think I got the vent valve backwards, because putting the saw on the side made it leak gas and it exhibited symptoms consistent with there being a vacuum in the tank.

I blew through the valve to see which way the air would pass and thought I got it right but probably got it mixed up anyway, will swap it around after work and see what that does.

 

[DennisCA]

Here's a thread ressurection, old saw works fine nowadays, now it got a new bar:

 

[Cantdog]

Here's a thread ressurection, old saw works fine nowadays, now it got a new bar:

Congrats!!! They are nice little saws!!!