Chainsaw Tuning 101

[nnero]

Thanks for the great info. I have a noob question. I just did a muffler mod on my 029 super. This is my first time trying to tune a chainsaw with no help from anyone in person. How do I tell if it has a limited coil or not? Also, it seems like the main idle adjustment doesnt do anything. Thanks

 

[blsnelling]

The 029 is unlimited.

 

[nomad_archer]

Thanks brad. I have never touched anything but the idle screw on my ms271 since it came from the dealer. I may have to see if I can try to apply anything in these videos to what it sounds like the saw is doing next time out. Everything seems to be in tune as far as I can tell but it may very well have the factory presets still.

 

[Coldfront]

Thanks to these video's I was able to tune my 372xp I am pretty sure it has a limiting coil but it is not that hard to do cutting into wood on my log pile. I looked at Baileys they are out of stock on the non limited, but why waste my money when it really isn't that hard to do while cutting into a log. I just kept turning the high screw out until I could really hear the 4 stroking during cut when I let up, then I screw back it a little bit once I know what to listen for until I had it just right. It has been below zero here and I don't want it running too lean. I have been burning through wood almost as fast as I can cut it this winter.

 

[naturelover]

For me, the best way to learn was to tune one wayyy rich, just to see what it sounded like. Then back it off till it quit with that sound when under load.

Now I can hear it easily, even listen for it on other peoples saws when they are running them.

Mine are always tuned rich though, I was a few hundreds rich on the stock Quake and 500 when I eventually did tach them. Eh, not really trying to get them on the ragged edge anyway, and the synthetic oils seem to control the carbon.


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[groundup]

I'll be honest, I struggle to hear the 4 stroking. I search these treads and try to understand the different sounds but really can't. I rely on a tach to set my my H end.

 

[blsnelling]

For me, the best way to learn was to tune one wayyy rich, just to see what it sounded like. Then back it off till it quit with that sound when under load.

Now I can hear it easily, even listen for it on other peoples saws when they are running them.

That's the best way to do it. I tell people to take it way rich, then slowly lean it out 1/8 turn at a time until it runs clean in the cut. Once you get real close, even 1/8 turn can be a lot.

 

[C SAW 090]

Are the green ones limited?

 

[LowVolt]

I'll be honest, I struggle to hear the 4 stroking. I search these treads and try to understand the different sounds but really can't. I rely on a tach to set my my H end.

Sounds weird but try wearing ear plugs or some form of hearing protection. It kind of cuts out the whole loudness of the saw and let's you hear the difference in tone of the exhaust when 4 stroking and cleaning up in the cut.

 

[Hinerman]

I'll be honest, I struggle to hear the 4 stroking. I search these treads and try to understand the different sounds but really can't. I rely on a tach to set my my H end.

Sounds weird but try wearing ear plugs or some form of hearing protection. It kind of cuts out the whole loudness of the saw and let's you hear the difference in tone of the exhaust when 4 stroking and cleaning up in the cut.

Another strange thing to try is let somebody else run it wide open throttle and you listen from a close distance....It works for me.

 

[husqvarnaxpman]

Vey nice video's. Planning on muffler mod my 346xp this weekend and was wondering where to start my H and L needles before I start the saw. I was told H 1/4 turn out to start with but I was looking for an expert's advice. These video's are gonna come in handy.

 

[ft. churchill]

Thanks Brad for posting up this great info. These videos are how I learned to tune correctly several years ago. One of the new folks was asking and I sent him to your vids.

 

[blsnelling]

Vey nice video's. Planning on muffler mod my 346xp this weekend and was wondering where to start my H and L needles before I start the saw. I was told H 1/4 turn out to start with but I was looking for an expert's advice. These video's are gonna come in handy.

1/4 will be fine for a starting point. Note: I have found the 346 to lean out far more than most saws when it's fully warmed up.

 

[Chris-PA]

With some muffler designs it can be very hard to hear the 4-stroking misfire. The little RedMax mufflers are one example - you can hear it but it's not very distinct.

 

[Coldfront]

I played around with the saw again today and tried it with the foam ear plugs, they really do make it easier to hear the 4 stroking. Today it was running a little to rich, when I adjusted it the first time it was minus -5f outside, today when I tested it again and it was running a bit rich it was +25f out. can the cold air make that big of a difference? I am normally not cutting in below zero temps. but this winter has been a bear. I can hardly keep ahead with my daily firewood, so I sometimes need to cut no matter how cold it is out.

 

[Chris-PA]

Cold air contains more oxygen molecules for a given volume, so it makes the mixture leaner, not richer.

 

[Coldfront]

Cold air contains more oxygen molecules for a given volume, so it makes the mixture leaner, not richer.

Right, that is why it was running rich today when it was about 30 degree's warmer out than when I adjusted it the first time when it was -5f out. But is it really necessary to re adjust all the time? Before I never touched it for years cutting from summer to winter.

 

[Chris-PA]

Right, that is why it was running rich today when it was about 30 degree's warmer out than when I adjusted it the first time when it was -5f out. But is it really necessary to re adjust all the time? Before I never touched it for years cutting from summer to winter.

Oh, I mis-read it. 30DegF is a pretty big difference. If it is always rich then it is at least safe, but you are giving power away and wasting fuel. If you want to keep it tuned closer to correct then adjusting will be required more often.

 

[Coldfront]

Well as I get better at tuning I will be adjusting from now on summer to winter. What scares me is running to lean when it is really cold out below zero.

 

[z71mike]

But is it really necessary to re adjust all the time? Before I never touched it for years cutting from summer to winter.

I tune every time I cut. Takes 10 seconds to guarantee I don't get a lean seizure.