Chainsawing downed dirty timber

[Wisctimber]

Is there a trick to cutting up downed timber thats laying on the ground? I've been clearing some trails with my Stihl MS-290 and its been cutting well. (Ive already sharpened the chain myself and keep on cutting).

But the question Im running into is...whats the easiest way to cut up old timber thats already laying on the ground?

Some of the timber looks like its been sitting there for years as its sunken in the dirt. These are big pieces, mostly oak. I'm trying to avoid cutting dirty timber knowing that its going to quickly dull the chain, but Im not sure how else to do it.

I could cut 2/3 through and then use a hand axe, but thats going to be pretty time consuming. Do I just cut through it and figure that Ill be sharpening up the chain more often? I was thinking about trying to pry it up off the ground onto some other logs, but these pieces are just too big to do that.

Any thoughts?

 

[Simonizer]

Stihl makes carbide tipped chain. It is about $2.00 a driver for the best stuff (Used on rescue saws). That will be the end of your problems buddy.

 

[Wisctimber]

The chain on it now is a "green" chain that came with the purchase. I did pickup an extra "yellow" chain as a backup.

Would switching to the yellow chain be suffice, or, do I need to get something specific for "dirty" timber?

Is it one of the chains in this link, if so, which one:
Chain Saw Chain - OILOMATIC® and Harvester Saw Chains | STIHL

If not one of those, could you link me to the correct chain?

Thanks!

 

[zogger]

log roller/lifter

Is there a trick to cutting up downed timber thats laying on the ground? I've been clearing some trails with my Stihl MS-290 and its been cutting well. (Ive already sharpened the chain myself and keep on cutting).

But the question Im running into is...whats the easiest way to cut up old timber thats already laying on the ground?

Some of the timber looks like its been sitting there for years as its sunken in the dirt. These are big pieces, mostly oak. I'm trying to avoid cutting dirty timber knowing that its going to quickly dull the chain, but Im not sure how else to do it.

I could cut 2/3 through and then use a hand axe, but thats going to be pretty time consuming. Do I just cut through it and figure that Ill be sharpening up the chain more often? I was thinking about trying to pry it up off the ground onto some other logs, but these pieces are just too big to do that.

Any thoughts?

You have to bite the bullet and make a few cuts all the way to the dirt to make logs of a size you can man handle. Then use a log lifter/roller tool and roll the logs onto some smaller pieces so both the bad area is up and the entire log is off the ground. Now take your axe and knock off the dirty parts, they'll be wet and so on and most will come off rather easily. Now, cut it. Yes, if you want to make a near full cut in the clean wood before you roll it, go for it, might as well get good use out of the clean sharp chain first before doing the dirty cuts.

It's work but doable. You'll still have a buncha bugs though.

As an alternative, do the rolling onto other logs, knock the junk off, then let it sit again for a month or two until it has dried out a lot. Most of the bugs will be gone by then.

protip: on old wood like that, always take a few minutes to closely inspect and look for yellow jackets coming and going before you start messing with it.

don't ask me how I know this.....

 

[mikefunaro]

You can first try starting with semi chisel chain, so stihl RMC or RM series chain. Then, if you find that too is dulling too quickly, I'd look into getting a loop of the carbide.

Are you trying to make firewood out of the stuff or you just trying to get it out of there?

 

[morewood]

I always cut it through as close as possible to the ground and after doing the whole log this way turn it over with a peavey. Now you can either cut through the dirty or brush/knock it off. I bought a cheap stiff bristle brush to help out since the deeper bark holds plenty of dirt and rock. I know it takes a little more time but I hate ruining my chains. Notice i used the plural-chains-my saw box carries at least 2 for each saw, just in case.

Shea

 

[w8ye]

The green chain and semi chisel chain does better in old dirty wood than does full chisel or Stihl RSC type chain

 

[Wisctimber]

Thanks for the tips on the roller and chain.

My Dad has an old log roller that I can borrow, or else Ill go pick one up. (Its been a while since I did any serious cutting, so I forgot about the roller).

I need to resharpen the chain from yesterday anyway, so I may sharpen and then swap in the yellow chain before going after the big stuff. If it doesnt cut it, I can also go get a carbide tipped chain.

As for the wood, Im merely cutting and clearing (tossing to the side), not planning on saving or burning. Its been laying in mud for quite a while.

As for the bees, I think Im more worried about a timber rattler hanging out in the area. But we've been very cautious with clothing, sprays, gloves, etc.

 

[texastele]

I cut quite a bit of old, downed, dirty mesquite and oak. (And pecan as well, when we manage to sell any of it.) You will be wasting a lot of time if you do anything besides just cutting it. Be careful as you get close to the ground, but you are going to stick it in the dirt every once in a while. Sharpen the chain frequently and make sure you're oiling well and you'll get done a lot faster than moving it or doing anything else. Although, if it is covered partially in dirt it wouldn't hurt to pick it up out of the ground and shake it off.

 

[jus2fat]

Well first off...I don't have to do what you're doing very much...
but I hate to dull a well sharpened chain!!...and have to re-sharpen it!!

After a few times of that...I just bought a cheap used Poulan with 14" bar.
I finish off the cut with it...just half-ass sharpen the chain...it's just goin' back in!!

When I can I roll the log with a canthook and carry a 2 gal. sprayer and wash
off the bottom..(rolled) with water to get the bulk of the dirt/mud off.
Have extra milk jugs filled with water for refilling.

Here is the timberjack-canthook combo I use...heavy fiberglass and well built!!

Northern Industrial Timberjack with Fiberglass Handle — 4Ft.L | Logging Hand Tools | Northern Tool + Equipment

Glad to hear your NEW MS290 is doing the job for you!!!!

J2F

 

[huskydude]

this is a good topic.... i cut up some very very dirty oak this year and it just wrecked the lpx i had. if i would have had a hose i would have hosed it down lol the bark was nasty

 

[hammer0419]

Most of my wood is on the ground already also. I used to use full chisel chain but found out how fast it dulled in dirty wood. I now use Semi-Chisel chain with more cuts between sharpening. I cut 2/3 through and then use a cant hook to roll it to finish the cut.

 

[galde]

PD chain

Using a 3/8 lo-pro saw you might try a loop of the Stihl 3/8 lo-pro (PD) chain that comes stock on their MS-230 saw. It has carbide teeth and sells for about double what their PM chain costs.

 

[jimbo1490]

After the '04 storms, all the downed wood was just covered with dirt and mud. Just caked up and nasty. Since I was cutting wood on my own property, I bought about 300' of garden hose and just washed everything first as best I could. Made a HUGE difference. I know this won't be practical with trail clearing since it really takes A LOT of water, way more than you're gonna be able to bring with you. The round chisel type chains seem to handle dirt much better.

Jimbo

 

[madhatte]

'Nother trick is to bore through a clean spot, and then hit the dirty bark from the inside. It'll buy you a few passes between sharpenings, usually.

 

[D&B Mack]

LogRite Tools logging tools
Universal Log Stand 6"

Cant Hook with Log Lifter, worth every penny. Cut the log into section you can handle. For the few dirt cuts you do have to make, take a pick or spade and spend 30 seconds, beats sharpening.

 

[indiansprings]

We cut a lot of downed timber, we'll cut 3/4 of the way through and roll it with a hook, if it is real dirty we'll take an old axe and knock off the dirt and bark to clean it up. I'll usually have a couple old ammo boxes with 20 or 30 chains, if it is real dirty I just get an old 3/4 used up chain and saw away. I've got the luxury of 30 years of old chains hanging around, that is what they are for, the jobs that are too dirty, trashy like stump cutting and fence row clearing, cheaper than the carbide one you have built up a good stock of the well used chain.

 

[T_F_E]

'Nother trick is to bore through a clean spot, and then hit the dirty bark from the inside. It'll buy you a few passes between sharpenings, usually.

what he said, take it from a landin guy, pull the saw up and kinda push the dirt off the bark with the cutters.

 

[slowp]

File it by hand when it needs it. I bucked up stuff that was taken out of a mudslide. I had to as the backhoe couldn't deck some of the bigger pieces. My chain didn't dull as fast as I thought, but I did stop to file it when it felt slow. I found out that saws will sling mud onto the operator. I'd touch up the chain when the boys were having a hard time hooking up a log to the backhoe (he was skidding them down the road) or the excavator was taking a while to grab a piece out of the slide. Nothing bad happened and we got the slide cleaned up. The deck was sold to a firewood dealer.

 

[SawGarage]

BEST: carbide chain
BETTER: semi chisel


BEST technique:

as Madhatte mentioned, I'll cut as far as possible through the wood till i get towards the dirty bark, and then start cutting only the wood (not the dirty bark) from the inside out (watch out! kickback is VERY possible here...) sometimes a felling wedge tapped in helps keep the cut open to:

A: be able to see
B: prevent the saw from getting pinched in a situation where it's dangerous to begin with.

Washing the wood would be nice, but rarely makes sense, or is convenient.

ALSO, REMEMBER:

Keep your work area CLEAR of brush, and trip hazards
wear your CHAPS, eye, ear, and hand protection....

Stay safe