Chaps Repair

[Philbert]

The protective fibers of chainsaw chaps are inside: cuts or burns to the outer shell only are mostly cosmetic, but should be repaired to keep out dirt, sawdust, oil, etc., and to prevent further damage. If the fibers have been pulled by a chain strike, the chaps have done their job and should be retired.

The USFS has published some information on this, but it is pretty old, and pertains to their, specific chaps. E.g. STIHL brand chaps are machine washable - check the labels on yours to be sure.

Inspecting and Repairing Your Chain Saw Chaps - USFS
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf05672816/pdf05672816dpi72.pdf

Inspecting, Cleaning, Repairing, and Retiring USDA Forest Service Chain Saw Chaps (0451–2324–MTDC)
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm04512324/

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Small cuts in the outside shell can be stitched with thread (don't snag any of the protective fibers). Larger cuts or melted areas should get a patch. Fortunately, many professional pairs of chaps come with matching patch fabric (in the form of a pocket) but sewing these on can be tedious. Retired chaps can also be harvested for patch material, replacement buckles, etc. This is easier if a crew uses the same brand of chaps, for example. I had a few muffler melts in some of our volunteer storm response team's chaps that are shown here (before and after).

'Before'


The USFS recommends gluing shell fabric with 'Seam Grip' - about $8 at REI, ****'s, Cabela's, etc. A lot cheaper than replacing a $100 + pair of chaps. One tube will glue a lot of patches, and can be used for repairing other outdoor gear.



A few tips:

Wash the chaps first (no fabric softener or bleach) and dry completely.

Work a piece of printer or notebook paper between the protective pad and the outer shell to keep glue out of the protective fibers. A few pins help hold the paper in place while gluing.

Use masking tape to mark the repair area, and control glue spread. Wipe the repair area and back of the patch with rubbing alcohol to improve adherence. I painted both sides with a small flux brush, covered the repaired areas with wax paper, and weighted each patch down with a brick to prevent edges from curling.



Small dabs of Seam Grip can be used on abraded areas. Let dry for a couple of days.

If sewing patches, a spring clamp can help hold the protective pads away from the shell material.



Not good enough to return to the dealer, but completely serviceable and professional looking!

'After'


Philbert

 

[jrs_diesel]

Funny that this thread came up, as I recently damaged my chaps with a chain that was coasting to a stop after a cut. Luckily I only sliced the outer layer open, and the protective fibers were not involved. I was able to repair mine with the ol' needle and thread:

 

[Philbert]

Sew a patch, like an American flag, over it, and no one will notice!

Philbert

 

[Plan-b]

Dollar store iron on pataches work well also, no messing with glue and tread if you don't care about a color match.

 

[WolfMann]

Great info/write up, thanks Philbert.

 

[Philbert]

Dollar store iron on pataches work well also, no messing with glue and tread . . .

A few others have suggested this. I am a little concerned about using heat to repair fabric damaged by excessive heat. Not sure if it will affect the protective fibers either.

I have used iron-on patches on jeans, but not sure that I want to use them on coated nylon.

Philbert

 

[CR888]

I got to do this, my orange chaps have a few burn holes & tears in the outer layer. I probably shouldn't but do use them when using brushcutter as they provide good protection. When you slip the paper or card between the kevlar fibers and the orange outer layer, how do you remove it after the repair is set?

 

[Philbert]

"When you slip the paper or card between the kevlar fibers and the orange outer layer, how do you remove it after the repair is set?"

You don't. It becomes a permanent part of the repair. That's why you use a thin piece of paper, but one that will not let the glue pass through.

Philbert

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Funny that this thread came up, as I recently damaged my chaps with a chain that was coasting to a stop after a cut. Luckily I only sliced the outer layer open, and the protective fibers were not involved. I was able to repair mine with the ol' needle and thread:

You've got the right idea, but that's not how your urologist does it.

 

[svk]

Another awesome philbert "life hack"

 

[Philbert]

Dollar store iron on pataches work well also, no messing with glue and tread if you don't care about a color match.

I am a little concerned about using heat to repair fabric damaged by excessive heat. Not sure if it will affect the protective fibers either.

Just a follow up: I have been looking at some different chaps recently, and all of the care instructions I see say 'Do Not Iron', so I would not recommend this.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Clogger Zero Repair

Having nicer, more expensive chaps does not prevent the user from doing stupid things: got the muffler too close to my Clogger Zeros chaps and got a small muffler melt (!). About 3/4 of an inch long, and it did not hit the protective fibers underneath. Still, I wanted something classier, and more permanent than duct tape to keep sawdust, etc., out of there (photo enhanced a bit to show the fabric texture better).



Same procedure as above, *** with a few nuances worth mentioning ***. Whereas the outer fabric on the STIHL chaps (above) feels like heavy pack cloth, the thinner, lighter fabric on these Zero's feels like a poplin dress shirt; still pretty durable, and part of what helps make them so light. But no match for a muffler.

Washed the chaps, carefully cut away the melted glob stuff, and inserted the paper behind / inside the repair (photo shows pin holding it in place). *Because this fabric is thinner, and does not have the urethane coating on the back, the paper should cover the whole area behind the patch, not just the hole, to prevent gluing the outer fabric to the protective fibers, in case there is any leak through.*

Wiped the surfaces with alcohol to clean and improve absorption, masked off the repair area with blue tape, applied glue to one side, covered with wax paper and a brick to prevent curling, and let it be overnight. In the morning I checked to be sure that the outer fabric did not adhere to the protective fibers.



This repair is more visible than on the STIHL chaps (above), possibly due to the lighter color. I am glad that the adhesive extended slightly beyond the patch to prevent any fraying. I am also glad that these really nice chaps are not toast from a careless moment.


It's a reminder to me to be mindful of the muffler as well as the chain. Maybe we can get Clogger, and others, to attach a patch of heat resistant fabric to this area on new chaps, as a 'heat shield' option, to protect against this common damage @Cloggerpro ?

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

I ripped one of my favorite work shirts one day. LOML cut off a piece of the shirt tail to do a similar repair with needle and thread. I've been using that same shirt for nearly two years since then and it's held on like a welding.

 

[Philbert]

I ripped one of my favorite work shirts one day. LOML cut off a piece of the shirt tail to do a similar repair with needle and thread. I've been using that same shirt for nearly two years since then and it's held on like a welding.

Sewing / fabric type stores sell a variety of fabric glues, for use in decorating and repairing 'normal' clothing. I have used that stuff to improvise hems on pants, glue patches on work jeans, etc. Seems to work better for me than some of the iron-on patch materials, and designed to go through the wash.

For the chaps, I have been using the Seam Grip product, 1) because the USFS recommended it, and 2) the heavier nature of the outdoor fabrics. It has held up well.

Philbert

 

[MagraAdam]

Funny that this thread came up, as I recently damaged my chaps with a chain that was coasting to a stop after a cut. Luckily I only sliced the outer layer open, and the protective fibers were not involved. I was able to repair mine with the ol' needle and thread:

I did the same thing with my thigh. Now I own chaps.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Can you believe that many tree service companies drop big trees and cut truckloads of wood with chain saws every year while the workers are wearing shorts? That includes the owners of the companies. I watched this happen this past summer. One owner cut his leg near his knee rather severely and then said to me, "It is what it is."

 

[thenne1713]

I did the same thing with my thigh. Now I own chaps./ GOOP OR

Easier/ faster might be to simply BRUSH CLEAN/ AIR NOZZLE CLEAN, mask off and wipe the cut/ tear w/ Thin layer of SHOE-GOO/ GOOP or silicone? Pretty sure mine say NOT to wash?

 

[Woodslasher]

Easier/ faster might be to simply BRUSH CLEAN/ AIR NOZZLE CLEAN, mask off and wipe the cut/ tear w/ Thin layer of SHOE-GOO/ GOOP or silicone? Pretty sure mine say NOT to wash?

If you're talking about skin, Crazy Glue is the name of the game. If you're talking about the chaps, a 5 gallon bucket of warm water, some Dawn, and a brush will work wonders. I cleaned a set of chaps that has been in use since '96 or so and I got them spic, span, and spotless. They also got a minor rip sewed up as twigs/brush had a nasty tendency to snag it.

 

[MagraAdam]

If you're talking about skin, Crazy Glue is the name of the game. If you're talking about the chaps, a 5 gallon bucket of warm water, some Dawn, and a brush will work wonders. I cleaned a set of chaps that has been in use since '96 or so and I got them spic, span, and spotless. They also got a minor rip sewed up as twigs/brush had a nasty tendency to snag it.

The chain took a pretty wide chunk out, so even butterfly clips weren't much use.

For the chaps, still say to wash them before use as they work better then. I did mine on gentle warm wash in the front loader washing machine then drip dried them. Worked a treat.