I put it back on the roll after I use it. Then I filter the oil with it. Saves on paper
Cheap Bar Oil?
- Thread starter Fellin Feller
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Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried using used motor oil chunks of metal was missing from the bar grooves.
If you're using it as bar oil, you're inhaling it. Unless you're wearing a respirator too.
Yes and two stroke fumes. I’m sure you’re right to an extent. I’m breaking balls here man. However I’d doubt I want to inhale new oil or recycled cleaned bar oil
Again I use new hydraulic oil 90 percent of the time. Just due to price.
I love a good oil argument.
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Bango Skank
ArboristSite Operative
For the uh more common purpose, you can save on paper by using both sides of it.
This is absolutely true.
Some years back I was experimenting with using vegetable oil for bar oil. It was cheap, it worked fine, and there didn't seem to be any problems. For a while. Then we discovered how the oil aerosol was coating all the exterior of the saws, including the cooling fins of the engine, where it was quite difficult to clean off. Unlike petroleum oils, the vegetable oil would oxidize and form a sticky layer on every surface of the saws, including the plastic exterior. It was particularly bad in cold weather, and also gelled-up the oil reservoir in cold weather.
Needless to say, I abandoned my "organic" bar oil, and went with something that didn't cause any problems. You can bet, however, that you are inhaling that used motor oil.
I use used hydro fluid from my tractors. Mix a 1/2 gallon of lucas oil stabilizer with 10 gallons of oil. Good for 3 seasons. Cold use the hydro straight. Most hydralic fluid is ep (extreme pressure) rated. Its designed to prevent metal wear. When I drain a tractor it looks just like when I put it in. 500hrs total. But filters every 150. A gallon of lucas is 29.00 here. So I have $29 in 40 gallons of oil.
MMG
ArboristSite Operative
I don’t understand the inhalation think. Oil is heavy , the atomization is minimal, and unless it’s vaporized by a smoking hot bar/chain, inhalation risk seems low. Having worked with compressed fresh air systems/respirators for years, I’ve always been told that any substantial oil inhalation can be deadly. I can’t see bar oil having a higher exposure than the fuel/oil mix exhaust. Educate me. As far as used oil, I have used it in a pinch but absolutely won’t unless I just have to cut something and am completely out of bar oil. I am interested in the hydraulic oil thing though. Seems like it would be kind of thin but maybe a little 90w would add some stickiness and viscosity. 
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
She's the one who cooked so she's to blame.
Oh, you mean the ones used as a filter.
STP motor treatment or lucas oil stabilizer. Both are thickeners and tackifiers.I don’t understand the inhalation think. Oil is heavy , the atomization is minimal, and unless it’s vaporized by a smoking hot bar/chain, inhalation risk seems low. Having worked with compressed fresh air systems/respirators for years, I’ve always been told that any substantial oil inhalation can be deadly. I can’t see bar oil having a higher exposure than the fuel/oil mix exhaust. Educate me. As far as used oil, I have used it in a pinch but absolutely won’t unless I just have to cut something and am completely out of bar oil. I am interested in the hydraulic oil thing though. Seems like it would be kind of thin but maybe a little 90w would add some stickiness and viscosity.
This is what I typically use. It’s red so its an easy visual on bar oiling and it’s tacky. Last I looked it was $10 gal. I would never use dirty engine oil as bar oil, simply because I don’t want that running thru the oiler itself. Heavy metals and combustion byproducts, it’s just nasty stuff. 
I used to repair some saw for a guy who used "used engine oil". I stopped working on his equipment because the stuff was so gunked up and caked over it too too long to clean before working on the saws. I stopped doing his Repairs
Bar oil is to cheap not to use. Cheaper than hydro fluid, motor oil, etc. It also doesn't have the metallic chemicals in it that virgin motor oil does. And you are nuts to think your not breathing aerosolised oil every time you run a saw.
As it pertains to used motor oil you have to be ignorant, stupid, or both to run that. Known carcinogen, full of nasty stuff, dirty, etc.
Same story with adding STP, Motor Honey or some other snake oil product to a thinner oil instead of running bar oil.
As it pertains to used motor oil you have to be ignorant, stupid, or both to run that. Known carcinogen, full of nasty stuff, dirty, etc.
Same story with adding STP, Motor Honey or some other snake oil product to a thinner oil instead of running bar oil.
Neither of those are have tackifiers. The both contain a healthy dose of mettalic additives that are bad health wise. And adding either would just end up costing you more than running real bar oil.
Where can you buy 5 gallons of bar oil for 35$
I can’t get bar oil under 10 here. Lucky to find it for 10
^a gallon
