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tomdcoker

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What kind of glue will attach steel to rubber. Trying to repair antivibe mount. Thanks For any help Tom
 
What kind of glue will attach steel to rubber. Trying to repair antivibe mount. Thanks For any help Tom

All seriousness, i hope someone has a answer to this one. I ran into this on a older saw that the av buffer had separated and no longer available.
 
What kind of glue will attach steel to rubber. Trying to repair antivibe mount. Thanks For any help Tom

Contact Adhesive.
R-320 Adhesive
nK (Nomaco K-Flex)

This stuff is incredible. I have used it for aluminum to rubber/plastic, foam to foam, rubber to leather/suade. I'm sure it will do the trick for metal to rubber.
It does say for industrial use only on the can.
 
R-320 Adhesive

The can I have does not have any instructions.
Make sure both surfaces are very clean.
Mix can contents thoroughly.
Apply thin layer to both surfaces.
Wait a few seconds and press together.
Pull apart and wait a few seconds 10-20.
Push together (make sure you have good contact) and hold for a while (not sure how long, but I hold it unit it won't come apart at all under slight pulling pressure.)
I would give it 24 hours to cure for your application.

If you don't get any other responses and you want to try this stuff, I should be able to get a small can and send it to you for cost + shipping. It shouldn't be more than $100.00!! (just kidding)
 
I would recommend two-part epoxy. Some are even specifically formulated for sticking to steel.
 
Make sure you get Lake's input on this one...he's probably fixed a broken one a time or two.

The R320 is a contact cement, and as a rule contact cements aren't particularly strong. They'll bond two surfaces together pretty easily, but they're not very tough. They don't have an incredible amount of water-resistance either. I've never used that one, though...and paplumber has, so I will happily bow to the voice of experience.

Metal to rubber is a fairly tough job for any adhesive, though, but I'm betting the factory does it with epoxy.
 
Thanks for all the quick replies. I think I have some epoxy. If so I will try it first and if it does not work I will try the contact cement. Thanks again Tom
 
I would be tempted to try Loctite 404. It is a cyanoacrylate adhesive that is primarily ment to bond rubber. I have also had very good results bonding steel and aluminum with it. I wouldn't be surprised if it held up well bonding AV buffers.
 
From their web site

Description

R-320 & R-620 Contact Adhesives are air-drying solvent based neoprene contact adhesives that are excellent for joining seams and butt joints of elastomeric & polyolefin pipe and sheet insulation. R-320 & R-620 Contact Adhesives make resilient moisture- and heat-resistant bonds when used with elastomeric and polyolefin products. R-320 & R-620 Contact Adhesives’ higher solids content allows them to be brushed or roller applied easily without running. They are ideal for bonding porous and non-porous materials, as they will not be absorbed easily.
Uses

R-320 & R-620 Contact Adhesives may be used for bonding elastomeric and polyolefin products to a variety of materials (i.e., other elastomers, metal, wood, leather, felt, concrete, etc.). The adhesives will make resilient and heat-resistant bonds. They are suitable for line temperatures up to 220°F (104°C) on applications requiring bonded seams and joints. When the adhesives are applied to large flat or curve surfaces, they are suitable for temperatures up to 200°F (93°C). The products are supplied in a variety of sizes ranging from pint brush top containers to gallon containers. Larger containers are available upon request.
 
3M brand Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, available in any good auto parts store, is made for glueing rubber to steel. Follow directions carefully.
 
I've never had any luck gluing them, with anything... They are attached with high heat and pressure... not with glue. If they have separated, the rubber is likely shot anyhow.
 
I am in need of a top mount for a Green Machine 7200. Part # 720306 D, also I could any of the other units for replacements as needed. Thanks Tom
 
I've used a lot of epoxies and glues in marine applications, and let me tell ya: The strongest, stickiest, most vibration resistant and just plain NASTIEST glue I have EVER used is called "3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealer." You can buy it in toothpaste-tube size things or caulk gun things, it's the consistency of caulk, and it comes in black or white and maybe some other colors. I guarantee you this stuff will outlive you. If you get it on your hands and don't clean it off right away, it ain't coming off for 2+ weeks without a belt sander. Only problem is, once you open it, it doesn't last long, because it's polyurethane-based, and the moisture in the air cures it. But this stuff adheres and lasts like nobody's business. They sell it at Home Depot and some hardware stores around here. It ain't cheap but it sure works! :blob5:
 
I am a chemist, but unfortunately I don't have a good answer.

I would tend to agree with Lakeside on this one. No matter what adhesive you use, and there are many that would bond steel to rubber, it is usually the rubber itself which will fail long before the adhesive fails.
 
Check out the Devcon.com website. I had planned to repair some mountings on old cars using their Flexane kits. My plan was to remove all the old rubber and weld on some small bits for the rubber to get a hold of. In the end I found some exhaust hangers that were close enough and modified those. Try posting a picture of the old mount and see if anyone knows of something similar.

Let us know if you have any luck.
 
Loc-Tite Black Max, once stuck it must be heated to 220 degs to release. I have glued phenolic to Aluminum cases for military grade trainer grounding kits. This stuff, if you can find it, is wicked!!!
 
Almost all the saws that I have do not have antivibe mounts so I made some modifications to this one and made it solid. This is a green machine 7200 and it cranks runs and cuts good. The reason I wanted to resurrect it was the piston and cylinder looked new. From all signs (wear points) it had not been used very much. I will check compression later. Thanks For all the Help. Tom
 

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