Yep. They're very handy to have out in the woods!
cleaning files
- Thread starter sdt7618
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Yep. They're very handy to have out in the woods!
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
i just bring 5-10 chains with me ,if i dull more than that im having a bad day and need to go home anyways ,i run square cut so filing is not worth doing in the woods to me
Vinegar? does massengill make this?
Easy Sharp Liquid, The Liquid That Sharpens Tools!
I have used this, it does work but prolly cheaper to buy new round files. I use it for more expensive rasps and files.
Must be some kind of weak acid.
I have used this, it does work but prolly cheaper to buy new round files. I use it for more expensive rasps and files.
Must be some kind of weak acid.
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Could be phosphoric acid, as used for washing concrete, 'derusting' auto body steel, cleaning milking systems.................and in soft drinks.
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Could be phosphoric acid, as used for washing concrete, 'derusting' auto body steel, cleaning milking systems.................and in soft drinks.
good call,
that stuff is the bomb for cleaning dingy white interiors, diluted of course.
A can of Coke in the washer for super greasy jeans works better than oxy-clean.
craig71
ArboristSite Operative
I just usually tap the muffler with the file after every couple teeth sharpened. You guys put way too much thought into everything, it's just a file after all.
On the issue of Stihl chains being harder than oregon, I find just the opposite, i only use .325 and maybe 3/8 is different but I find .325 stihl much softer than oregon chains. Another way to get longer from your files is just to push when filing and dont pull back against the tooth in a sawing action because this damages the file teeth. I also find echo branded files to be the strongest file for the money.
On the issue of Stihl chains being harder than oregon, I find just the opposite, i only use .325 and maybe 3/8 is different but I find .325 stihl much softer than oregon chains. Another way to get longer from your files is just to push when filing and dont pull back against the tooth in a sawing action because this damages the file teeth. I also find echo branded files to be the strongest file for the money.
Denis Gionet
ArboristSite Operative
Sharpening Files
Post #34 .....
Can't post a link, page won't allow it.
Sawhawgs dot com/showthread.php/389-Square-filing/page4
Post #34 .....
Can't post a link, page won't allow it.
Sawhawgs dot com/showthread.php/389-Square-filing/page4
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Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't how some people think that Oregon chain is anywhere close to Stihl Chain for hardness or long life. When I started out, I used Stihl chain, because that was the cheapest I could get in Wisconsin due to one particular local supplier, when I started work farther from Wisconsin, I couldn't get chain from him anymore, so I did the human thing and bought cheap Oregon chain, I could get through more than a few muddy cuts before it was cutting sideways or wouldn't cut at all. I then started getting Carlton chain and this was an improvement, but still I started using a chain grinder, because it was such a problem keeping chains that would cut at the pace, I wanted to work at ............. which is not stop every 10 minutes for a break.
I then when back to Stihl chain (chisel) and life was better, then I started looking into the semi chisel and the full skip and after that point, I have never used my chain grinder again, and I currently work in the most mudd covered crap there is, its flooded timber and everything has mud and sand in the bark, and the Stihl semi-chisel just keeps on going. I still have some Oregon and Carlton semi-chisel chains that float around, as I probably have 30 used chains on nails and for firewood, I'll just use whatever is at the shop to get them used up and the Oregon and Carlton chains, just don't hold a candle to Stihl chains.
I use Stihl semi chisel, because I like to cut a lot of wood when I go to cutting, and I'm not interested in becoming a professional chain sharpener at this same time. I've had the same saws with the same bars and Oregon or Carlton on one guy's saw and Stihl on the other, and both cutters are good, and the guy running the Oregon or Carlton looks like a union plumber, always taking breaks and sitting on a log sharpening his chain, meanwhile the Stihl chain is still cutting fine.
And that is just the sharpening aspect of them, that doesn't take into the consideration the time to remove links and constantly adjust the chain tension on Oregon because it just stretches like pizza dough.
I always use whatever is the cheapest, but I rarely measure the value of something by its initial price, Oregon is very cheap chain, but in the long run its super expensive, therefore, I always figure that Stihl chain is the least expensive chain or better stated the best overall value.
Sam
I then when back to Stihl chain (chisel) and life was better, then I started looking into the semi chisel and the full skip and after that point, I have never used my chain grinder again, and I currently work in the most mudd covered crap there is, its flooded timber and everything has mud and sand in the bark, and the Stihl semi-chisel just keeps on going. I still have some Oregon and Carlton semi-chisel chains that float around, as I probably have 30 used chains on nails and for firewood, I'll just use whatever is at the shop to get them used up and the Oregon and Carlton chains, just don't hold a candle to Stihl chains.
I use Stihl semi chisel, because I like to cut a lot of wood when I go to cutting, and I'm not interested in becoming a professional chain sharpener at this same time. I've had the same saws with the same bars and Oregon or Carlton on one guy's saw and Stihl on the other, and both cutters are good, and the guy running the Oregon or Carlton looks like a union plumber, always taking breaks and sitting on a log sharpening his chain, meanwhile the Stihl chain is still cutting fine.
And that is just the sharpening aspect of them, that doesn't take into the consideration the time to remove links and constantly adjust the chain tension on Oregon because it just stretches like pizza dough.
I always use whatever is the cheapest, but I rarely measure the value of something by its initial price, Oregon is very cheap chain, but in the long run its super expensive, therefore, I always figure that Stihl chain is the least expensive chain or better stated the best overall value.
Sam
mad murdock
ArboristSite Guru
One of the services offered by save edge is file resharpening. According to their website, a file can be reconditioned like new a few times before it is no good. Their reconditioning cost is about half the cost of a new file. I have been saving up my used files and when I get a dozen, I am going to try them out on the resharpening thing.
indiansprings
Firewood Purveyor
I agree whole heartily with Slamm's assement on chain. I've tried them all in our business trying to save money /lower operating cost and Stihl is all I will buy from know on. Oregon is just too soft for my cutting conditions, I think alot of people like it because it is easy to file and get razor sharp, but it just doesn't last long , too soft. For wood cutting I'd take Woodland pro (carlton) over Oregon for chain life.
I just tap my files against the vice every few strokes to get the shavings out. They are a commodity item, buy them by the dozen when they are no longer getting the job done just toss them no more than they cost.
I just tap my files against the vice every few strokes to get the shavings out. They are a commodity item, buy them by the dozen when they are no longer getting the job done just toss them no more than they cost.
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
+100 on that!
For a while there, I was buying used chains very cheap. $1/chain for 18" carlton 3/8 063 that had been used once and never sharpened, many were still sharp. I'd break all the chains, spin them back together into a roll, then run the roll through my sharpening machine to get it all back in line. a full roll of 100' would end up costing me about $50 with all the presets, about 3c per drive link.
I still went back to buying stihl semi chisel at $500/roll. I only go through 3 or 4 rolls a year so it isn't really that big of an expense in the overall running of the business. Yeah, you save quite a bit going with used carlton chain, but by the time you spend half a day spinning and sharpening, then breaking and re-spinning into chains, and then add up all the lost time on the job when you've got guys standing round.... Stihl is the way to go. Things would be different if I was just gathering firewood or whatever.
If you grind your rakers low enough, the life on the stihl semi chisel is fantastic. On shorter bars I go down to 7~7.5* and still get a smooth cut, but because so much more tooth area is exposed, the 'working corner' effectively becomes larger in surface area. You can only go down to about 6 degrees on bigger bars (at least, with my saws) so they blunt a little quicker but still get very good life. Tall rakers = fast blunting.
Shaun
the vinegar trick works, it sharpens blunt files,(slightly) leave them in a jar full of vinegar for about two or three days then haul them out, they'll be covered in black slime, throw them in water and wipe them clean. they're black and a bit sharper but don't last too long
So if you like to cut wood and NOT sharpen frequently, stihl RMC yellow chain is the chain you pick???
I see a lot of guys like the RSC yellow with the point instead of the scoop edge, this is the one if you enjoy a break doing some filing.
Clean wood prolly doesn't matter as much.
I see a lot of guys like the RSC yellow with the point instead of the scoop edge, this is the one if you enjoy a break doing some filing.
Clean wood prolly doesn't matter as much.
jus2fat
Two Harley Fatboys
The Save-Edge re-sharpening service is Not intended for round chainsaw files...
It will cost you more for the re-sharpening (not to mention shipping) than you can just buy New files...(one time shipping)
(don't believe me..?? - then call and ask them..!!)
And..when Mikko left the company...sooo - did J2F..!!!
J2F
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Has save edge had some changes???? I don't remember who comes to the farrier convention in Cincinnati, but the guy that was there 2 years ago was really helpful. I hope they don't start changing their suppliers, I really like their tools. I think the cost to re-do a round file was a dollar, a new file on sale is a dollar twenty, and then to ship????
Just throw the old ones in the re-cycle bin.
Just throw the old ones in the re-cycle bin.
stihlrookie
ArboristSite Guru
Muriatic Acid
Cleans and "sharpens" a file. I worked with a gentlemen a few years ago and this was one of his many tricks of the trade. Muriatic acid can be purchased in gallon jugs at most hardware and home improvement stores for about $10. What you do is suspend the files in the jug, we would duct tape a bit of string to the end and tie to the jug handle and this would allow the file to "float" in the jug. Then tape the top of the jug over and let the files soak for a bit, sorry I can't remember exactly but I think we let them soak overnight. Seemed to work pretty good on those big bastard files, they felt like new after soaking. I believe the muriatic acid cleans and also etches the surface of a dull file to extend its life a little, may not stay sharp for as long as a new file but you should be able to get a couple dips out of a file before it is gone completely.
Cleans and "sharpens" a file. I worked with a gentlemen a few years ago and this was one of his many tricks of the trade. Muriatic acid can be purchased in gallon jugs at most hardware and home improvement stores for about $10. What you do is suspend the files in the jug, we would duct tape a bit of string to the end and tie to the jug handle and this would allow the file to "float" in the jug. Then tape the top of the jug over and let the files soak for a bit, sorry I can't remember exactly but I think we let them soak overnight. Seemed to work pretty good on those big bastard files, they felt like new after soaking. I believe the muriatic acid cleans and also etches the surface of a dull file to extend its life a little, may not stay sharp for as long as a new file but you should be able to get a couple dips out of a file before it is gone completely.
I'm with Slamm... Stihl semi-chisel is the deal for just cutting and cutting and cutting. Not the fastest, never will be. Not the cheapest, either, at least up front, but in the end it's a lot less trouble, especially when you have to plan for the care and feeding of a crew. Been using it at work for about three years now. No complaints.
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