Clearing saw blades

[Bret4207]

Not quite a chainsaw, but close.

Does anyone have an opinion of the carbide vs. non-carbide 9" clearing saw blades? I had a standard type blade that didn't work real well, but it was 20 years old too, just like my monster Husky clearing saw, the biggest one they ever made with the 2100 engine on it, I forget the model #. Ive also used 1.5" skill saw blades and while they work well, the carbide tip get trashed on the first rock and they really need to be thicker stock to work right. I guess I'm just asking if the carbide is worth the money.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

What size arbor and what are you cutting?

I'm running a Jonsered GR2036 clearing saw and typically use the Stihl Chisel blades with the 1 inch arbor. They work really well for 2 inch and under saplings and brush. 3 inch is OK if the blade is sharp.

The Beaver Blades work well too. They are more aggressive than Stihl chisel blades. Either is pretty easy to sharpen with a round chainsaw file.

I wouldn't recommend carbide tipped on a clearing saw. You'll be in the rocks and gravel from time to time and carbide though it holds an edge is very brittle. You could wind up with a lot of schrapnel flying. The standard blades are more forgiving in this aspect but will require frequent sharpening.

Take Care

 

[Ed*L]

Never have seen a carbide tip clearing saw blade.

I use the Husky "Maxi" blades, very similar to the Stihls & the ones that Baileys sells. They sharpen easily with a 7/32 round file.

Face it, a sharp clearing saw blade is a rock magnet, as soon as you take the points off you'll never hit another rock until it's been sharpened again.

Ed

 

[Bret4207]

I think the saw is a 165R Husky, 7/8" arbor IIRC.

 

[2dogs]

I've only used Stihl blades on my ancient FS180. The blades sharpen with a 3/16" file.

 

[Butch(OH)]

I dont know a thing about carbide brush cutter blades but I know a bit about carbide and no carbide blade is going to cut rocks and then switch over to cutting wood, instead of dulled rounded steel teeth you will have broken off carbide teeth. When sharp the Stihl hard steel blade on my FS110 will cut through 2-3" saplings like butter. If I touch a rock it sharpens in 2 minutes or less with a 7/32 file.

 

[devonhubb]

I really like the carbide tipped brush blades. I'm cleaning out an old fence row. They work great. I'm using a Stihl FS250R and it will cut trees down that are 3" diameter with no problem. I've inadvertently hit rocks, old t-posts and barbed-wire. Use common sense, don't wind it up when your near danger & all will be well.


I bought mine off of Ebay. See Item #140306617612. I have no affiliation with the seller. But it is a great product. I am a repeat customer.

 

[Roy M]

I don't like the idea of the carbide chipping off at the speed those things run at. Brett, don't use a Skilsaw blade on a brush cutter, it is not designed to run at 9000 rpm. If it shatters you will be in a world of hurt.

 

[finnyct90]

almost brush saw time!

I use the the Stihl Chisel blades with the 1 inch arbor, easy to sharpen, and will still cut small brush and stuff after being rocked. I find that I can turn the guys loose with the clearing saws and a round file...by the end of the day they loose the file and at least one saw is not running
After a couple days one of them will figure out how to sharpen the blades and remember to leave the file right next to the gas and water. By the end of the week I have one good brush saw guy, seems to happen every season.
If you are not cutting anything more than stout weeds and saplings, use the tri-blades.

 

[Bret4207]

Thanks guys. I'm cutting brush up to 3-4" at the largest. Most is under 1 1/2". I'll try one of those blades and pass on the carbide.

 

[Ed*L]

I think the saw is a 165R Husky, 7/8" arbor IIRC.

Same saw as mine, 20mm arbor.

This is the blade I use: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MX9+225+20&catID=992

Ed