So i have access to a good bit of white mulberry. Pretty decent wood? I googled it of course but google ain't actually done it so I don't immediately just go with what it says.
Would a ladder or boards be better? Pros cons for both?
Thanks! I will check this out appreciate you posting it!
Weight and size are the main things. A board can be had in just about any dimension you please, a ladder is light, stiff, and easy to deal with.
Never worked with it - if it's similar to red mulberry it's extremely hard, getting up toward pecan. Very low water content and doesn't shrink much, so should dry well if stacked properly.
Appreciate the response! I will put up the pics after this disaster i mean very well done project gets going lol
The trick is after the chain starts dulling after the first couple slabs, knowing when to resharpen. Each slab is getting wider as you go further down from the first cut so they're going to get slower and slower to mill, and it can be hard to gauge if you're slowing down because your chain is too dull or the slabs are getting bigger. At the end of the day, good sharpening skills are 9/10 of chainsaw milling. I tried every device under the sun trying to get the hang of sharpening my first few years, wasted ungodly amounts of time pushing dull or unevenly sharpened chains, and finally have settled on the Pferd/Stihl 2 in 1 hand files for chains worn evenly in good condition, and electric grinder sharpening for messed up chains.
How's that 070 worked out for you? Saw in an old post after the first four months you were pretty happy with it, aside from the expected issues like the clutch, which was a problem Stihl OEM or clone. I like that it has the option of upgrading it to an 090, though that apparently is kinda costly between the need for the $100 six shoe clutch, the $160 P&C kit, and a few other things. Still, if one was to toast the 070 cylinder that's what I'd probably do. Did you upgrade the clutch? I gather the governor design that limited it at 8000 rpm made a lot of people hate the stock form of the saw. Did you do anything about that? But people hate the 880's for the same reason and curse the stock ones, because the modern speed demon lover hates any torque-heavy, low rpm, rev limited saw. It's exactly what makes them good milling saws though, they're slow and steady, never overheat, and can pull through anything. Doesn't hurt to bump the speed some with an 8 pin sprocket, though. Horses for courses. Never have done a thing to alter my 880, and has been trouble-free to this day.
It is still going like it should. I actually had it out a few weeks ago just to run it some, doing some pruning.
That may explain what someone said about the mods required for an 090, they said something about a new crank nut, washer, and taper. Didn't know what they meant by the taper, but probably had to do with that factory washer issue being not quite right. Seems like a mod that needs to be done regardless of one is leaving it an 070 or upgrading it. If you're not running anything above a 42" bar on it, the original clutch shouldn't be too much of an issue, got the impression it was only when people jumped to 50-60" bars it became a real problem.
