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I'm at the end of 600 ft. spool of New England 12 strand Tree-Line. Picked it up for $209.00 for a 600 ft. spool. I have a 600 ft. spool of New England Safety Blue 16 strand waiting in the wings.
Climbing Line
- Thread starter Froggy
- Start date
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I started out climbing on true blue it worked pretty good for the amount of climbing that I did at the time. I then switched to safety blue that ties really good. Have been climbing on blue streak for the last three years and love it. I climb on a 120 ft yellow jacket rope that I won from Tobe Sherrill aT the Vermeer customer appreciation days.
I have a 185' HI-Vee that gets some use, Semi-retired blue streak, now have the new Gold Streak. Have an old Monkey line, and a white Yale XTC that is nice line, but we only climbed on it for a bit, as it was bought for lowering line. No static line yet, may get some 1/2 inch for speed line, and 7/16 for ascenders for sure, maybe even 3/8.
Any line works with the Vt, the king of friction knots....
Any line works with the Vt, the king of friction knots....
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Hitch worked great, it was my feet that boots that wer having problems
185 hank? that would be wated over here, half of it would never come out of the bag.
185 hank? that would be wated over here, half of it would never come out of the bag.
Nickrosis
Manned by Boderators
100' will work 80% of the time for me. If you have more, you end up wishing you hadn't while you're feeding it into the bag or pulling it through a friction saver or over a limb, etc, etc....
I like feeding the rope/throwline over my shoulder as I put it away. Anyone have a better/alternative idea?
Nickrosis
I like feeding the rope/throwline over my shoulder as I put it away. Anyone have a better/alternative idea?
Nickrosis
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
I was taught to wrap up the rope as I pulled it over a limb. This helps with any twist from coiling up the rope. I've always gotten rather irritated when someone walked up and pulled my lifeline out of the tree into a big wad on the ground. Then they say they were 'helping'.
I use the new pro-stripe, nice rope.
Craig-- I have a spilt tail made out of the 12strand Maverick. The rope feels great, very soft, with great knot control, however I was pretty disappointed at how fast I burned one of the strands. It was within the first month of use, and I can't recall ever smoking down the line. I really like the feel.
Greg
Craig-- I have a spilt tail made out of the 12strand Maverick. The rope feels great, very soft, with great knot control, however I was pretty disappointed at how fast I burned one of the strands. It was within the first month of use, and I can't recall ever smoking down the line. I really like the feel.
Greg
Stumper
One Man Band
I make most of my climbs on an 85' hank. I've got a 115' and 120' when I need them- which is seldom. A 65' rope would work on a lot of trees but I need the 85 often enough that I didn't want a shorter cut. I used to always coil my pope like you Brian. I'm still coiling the rigging ropes but have started flaking the climbing line into a bag. It isn't any faster but it does save a few tangles with the limbs on the ground.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I bag every rope cept for the 60ft XTC, could probably fit that in a thowline bag
Started using the 150 hank of safety blue that Sherrill replaced the yellow jacket with. Worked real good the first FL. Only problem is, it was blinding me every time the sun came out. Wont stay white for long.
Started using the 150 hank of safety blue that Sherrill replaced the yellow jacket with. Worked real good the first FL. Only problem is, it was blinding me every time the sun came out. Wont stay white for long.
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
JPS-
Blue Streak (blue and white striped) or Safety Blue (white)?
I really like the soft feel of the Safety Blue, but it gets confusing when roping because ALL my ropes are white! And you are right, it won't stay 'blinding' white for long.
Blue Streak (blue and white striped) or Safety Blue (white)?
I really like the soft feel of the Safety Blue, but it gets confusing when roping because ALL my ropes are white! And you are right, it won't stay 'blinding' white for long.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Huh? what do you mean I wrote safety blue?
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rope of a different 'color'
9 years ago I was climbing on 9mm dynamic rock climbing rope because I came from that world, and in entering the tree care industry, I never really had anyone to tell me any better. My first arborist rope was New England's High Vee. I couldn't understand how arborists could climb with such a heavy, bulky rope, but I had worn out my kernmantle rock climbing ropes and the arborist ropes looked more durable (and they are).
The High Vee lasted until I touched it with a saw, so I went to find a 7/16" arborist rope. I only found 1/2" at the time, so I went with it. I bought two ropes at once, True Blue and Blue Streak, and tested them against each other for about a year. Next I tried the Arborplex, then New England's Braided Safety Blue, then (remember, we're moving along in years here) some 12 strand and then another 16 strand I hadn't tried. I have a lot of retired ropes in the garage.
What I use now, what I've come to appreciate more as a climbing line than any other, very durable, great abrasion resistance, soft feel, takes knots well, ascender friendly, rappells well, 10,000 pound breaking strength..... I'm not sure if you guys are ready for this.... Sampson's 1/2" Stable Braid. It's marketed as a bull rope (static vs dynamic), but I think its a truly great climbing line.
Climbing lines, by convention, are supposed to have some stretch (dynamic), so if you fall, the elasticity of the rope will absorb some of the shock. In the rock climbing world, it is expected that you'll take an occasional fall. Not so in tree climbing. Falling is not part of our sport ; A fall is an accident. Any fall, in my eyes, is always a bad thing whether a dynamic or static rope is involved. This is why you set redirects if you have to climb up above your tie-in point.
I like the non-stretchyness. I don't like to 'bounce' when footlocking. Many of the available static lines are very hard, very stiff, don't take knots well and get even stiffer when the weather gets cold. Stable braid, however, is supple and the feel gets better with age. The sheath doesn't stretch so you don't have the problem of the sheath 'milking'. It's very hockle-resistant and at 10,000 pounds working tensile, I feel very, very safe on it. After I retire it as a climbing line, it becomes my new lowering line. I'll continue to buy and test new ropes as they come on to market, but for now, as strange as it might outwardly appear, the 1/2" stable braid is the rope that rocks my world.
OK, now I'm ready for the 'Grill'Committee'.
9 years ago I was climbing on 9mm dynamic rock climbing rope because I came from that world, and in entering the tree care industry, I never really had anyone to tell me any better. My first arborist rope was New England's High Vee. I couldn't understand how arborists could climb with such a heavy, bulky rope, but I had worn out my kernmantle rock climbing ropes and the arborist ropes looked more durable (and they are).
The High Vee lasted until I touched it with a saw, so I went to find a 7/16" arborist rope. I only found 1/2" at the time, so I went with it. I bought two ropes at once, True Blue and Blue Streak, and tested them against each other for about a year. Next I tried the Arborplex, then New England's Braided Safety Blue, then (remember, we're moving along in years here) some 12 strand and then another 16 strand I hadn't tried. I have a lot of retired ropes in the garage.
What I use now, what I've come to appreciate more as a climbing line than any other, very durable, great abrasion resistance, soft feel, takes knots well, ascender friendly, rappells well, 10,000 pound breaking strength..... I'm not sure if you guys are ready for this.... Sampson's 1/2" Stable Braid. It's marketed as a bull rope (static vs dynamic), but I think its a truly great climbing line.
Climbing lines, by convention, are supposed to have some stretch (dynamic), so if you fall, the elasticity of the rope will absorb some of the shock. In the rock climbing world, it is expected that you'll take an occasional fall. Not so in tree climbing. Falling is not part of our sport ; A fall is an accident. Any fall, in my eyes, is always a bad thing whether a dynamic or static rope is involved. This is why you set redirects if you have to climb up above your tie-in point.
I like the non-stretchyness. I don't like to 'bounce' when footlocking. Many of the available static lines are very hard, very stiff, don't take knots well and get even stiffer when the weather gets cold. Stable braid, however, is supple and the feel gets better with age. The sheath doesn't stretch so you don't have the problem of the sheath 'milking'. It's very hockle-resistant and at 10,000 pounds working tensile, I feel very, very safe on it. After I retire it as a climbing line, it becomes my new lowering line. I'll continue to buy and test new ropes as they come on to market, but for now, as strange as it might outwardly appear, the 1/2" stable braid is the rope that rocks my world.
OK, now I'm ready for the 'Grill'Committee'.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I've been using 5/16 SB for my tress cord for the past, oh, month now.
Arborist rope is more of a semi-static line in the eyes of the rock world.
The load rating and size mandated are due to Aborplex being the only synthetic rope around at the time of the first standards.
I like any rope that does not hockle to bad . Seems like the VT makes any of them twist up more
Arborist rope is more of a semi-static line in the eyes of the rock world.
The load rating and size mandated are due to Aborplex being the only synthetic rope around at the time of the first standards.
I like any rope that does not hockle to bad . Seems like the VT makes any of them twist up more
ramanujan
ArboristSite Operative
mostly climbing on a 150' length of xtc and it's often not long enough... thinning tall conifers with the first limb higher than half my rope. srt on the way up and swing into another tree for a lower TIP on the way down.
Tree Machine, what sort of construction is the stable braid? it's spliceable isn't it?
Tree Machine, what sort of construction is the stable braid? it's spliceable isn't it?
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
Sherrill (link at top of page) stocks 9/16" and 5/8" Stable Braid. They should have a picture and description also. Look under 'Bull Ropes'. The description I have is: The name describes the rope's construction, two ropes in one. The inner core is protected by a tightly woven outer jacket, creating a very strong, flexible line with low stretch characteristics. Super Braid Plus ropes are dip coated in a bath of liquid Samthane that dries into an abrasion-resistant shell. It is spliceable. Stable Braid is designed to be used with false croitch blocks and other rigging hardware so you can take full advantage of it's strength and durability.
I may have a couple sources for Samson Stable Braid in other sizes, but I gotta check.
I may have a couple sources for Samson Stable Braid in other sizes, but I gotta check.
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
I found it. They are not a site sponsor, but Sherrill doesn't carry 1/2". Here's the link to the 1/2" Stable Braid. Sherrill also has a price match policy for identical items that they do sell.
http://www.wesspur.com/Climbing_Gea...le_Braid__1_2_/samson_stable_braid__1_2_.html
http://www.wesspur.com/Climbing_Gea...le_Braid__1_2_/samson_stable_braid__1_2_.html
ramanujan
ArboristSite Operative
thanks treeclimber
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
i'm really liking my Sherrill Yellow Jacket guys, at first it seemed a lil'small to (even) me, also slippery, The size seems inconsequential now, the slipperyness has worn to 'normal' in a day or so of use.
Because of the slipperyness, i had to initially change from a 3/1 distel, to 4/1 distell for that first 2 daze to be confident. But now am back to my 3/1 in (of course) 3 strand.
i know the 3strand deal hits some of ya funny. i tried it initially as a cheaper option of Sherrill's split tails. After using one for a while i was lucky enough to talk to one of the splicing chaps. In short he (at that time, years ago at least) agreed with me that it seemed to have unique gripping characteristics on a braided line (the mix of the 2 formats) and possibly longer life. As time went on i found i could a lot easier make my own custom tails (lanyards and experiment freely with other custom work) compared to 16strand, also with shorter swell at the splice. This lent to safety also, for there was even less 'ex-cuse' for not having everything 187% right in wear and customization; as they are quick, lasting and cheap devices that i make. 150' lasts a long time!
Loving the Hudson Fid, with so much to Thank Brion Toss for!
-KC
Because of the slipperyness, i had to initially change from a 3/1 distel, to 4/1 distell for that first 2 daze to be confident. But now am back to my 3/1 in (of course) 3 strand.
i know the 3strand deal hits some of ya funny. i tried it initially as a cheaper option of Sherrill's split tails. After using one for a while i was lucky enough to talk to one of the splicing chaps. In short he (at that time, years ago at least) agreed with me that it seemed to have unique gripping characteristics on a braided line (the mix of the 2 formats) and possibly longer life. As time went on i found i could a lot easier make my own custom tails (lanyards and experiment freely with other custom work) compared to 16strand, also with shorter swell at the splice. This lent to safety also, for there was even less 'ex-cuse' for not having everything 187% right in wear and customization; as they are quick, lasting and cheap devices that i make. 150' lasts a long time!
Loving the Hudson Fid, with so much to Thank Brion Toss for!
-KC
