Commercial Sharpening

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jpdocdave

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when you use chains everyday what are you using to sharpen. I have a $50 grinder from menards but it has become inconsistent, and ain't got no time for that. I hate a saw that isn't ready to make chips fast and straight.

Stihl has a nice looking grinder but not sure of cost, Oregon has a $330 ball park grinder, northern tool has a $100 unit. What's good out there?
 
Oregon 511 is a good sturdy machine that will last a long long time if you are sharpening just your own chains . I have the ax with the self centering vice and adjustment to wheel wear . The stihl usg is build like a tank and can hold up to years of commercial use. I got mine new for 525 plus 6% tax . They will both serve you well . If you have several chains in 050 and 063 the usg you are supposed to change the washers in the vice that is kind of a PIA . The 511 ax self adjusts . You get what you pay for . Cbn wheels are also worth every penny .


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^ Thanks Knobby. I figure you get what you pay for and I need something that will work well for a long time. My grinder is great for a home owner, but with over a hundred loops through it it hasn't held up I don't think. I use the same process every time, and it has become inconsistent. Also, I set it up for one side, turn it and the other side seems way different. Either too deep, or not hitting. It used to sharpen very well every time.

So the Oregon 511 should serve well? I called my local Stihl dealer and I"m sure its a great unit but it was $604 plus tax. If it's absolutely worth double I'd consider it, but if the Oregon at least comes close I may go with it.
 
The 511ax will serve you well and leave you money for a cbn wheel .


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py8ygu3e.jpg
sharpens as crooked as the eye! Haha
 
hand filing is a must know but I dont have time for it. Esp in the middle of a job. Just swap chains and go.
 
I do hand sharpen my 200t's though. Generally first thing in the morning before heading out for the day.
 
hand filing is a must know but I dont have time for it. Esp in the middle of a job. Just swap chains and go.

Swapping chains probably takes longer than a quick touch up with a file. Long bars might be an exception.
I have a decent grinder with a borozon wheel but it rarely gets used unless a chain has been brutalized by the brute squad.
 
I have a $50 grinder from menards but it has become inconsistent, and ain't got no time for that. I hate a saw that isn't ready to make chips fast and straight. . . . What's good out there?

There is a lot of personal preference out there, based on what you cut, how you cut, if you work in the woods/out of your truck/or at home near your shop, etc., etc., etc. Even the term 'sharpening' is used differently. Some guys have one chain on one saw and cut with that until it is used up. Some guys have different chains for different purposes, and multiple saws, with different types/sizes of chains. Some guys wait until a chain stops cutting to give it attention. Some guys 'touch up' a chain every fill up or so.

Going from a $50 Menard's/Harbor Freight type grinder to a $300 Italian grinder is a big jump in quality, as well as flexibility. The Oregon/Tecomec style grinders will let you customize the angle settings that are fixed on the basic grinders. The larger diameter wheels and more powerful motors make a big difference too. Jumping up to the STIHL USG grinder would be huge, and would not seem justified, based on your description, unless it was something that you wanted.

Site sponsor Bailey's has their version of the Speed Sharp grinder on sale for $300 until October 21, and Molemab replacement wheels on sale for $12. http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...n-Grinders/Speed-Sharp-Star-Chain-Grinder.axd. You might also want to consider some resinoid grinding wheels with it: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/.

Philbert
 
My best sharpening tip is to wear gloves and sharpen the chain on the saw while it's still hot from use, so hot it can't be touched without wearing gloves!

Hot metal sharpens much easier than cold metal.

I'm one of those guys that touches up my chain with each tankful of gas, obviously. Just a swipe or two per cutter's all it takes.

jomoco
 
Swapping chains probably takes longer than a quick touch up with a file. Long bars might be an exception.
I have a decent grinder with a borozon wheel but it rarely gets used unless a chain has been brutalized by the brute squad.
with respect, there is NO WAY you can hand sharpen or touch up a chain , even on a 16 inch bar, faster than i can swap it. I just dont believe it.
 
With respect, you have solved one problem (the dull chain) by just procrastinating the sharpening of it.
Kinda like saving time not eating breakfast by taking twice as long to eat lunch.
 
With respect, you have solved one problem (the dull chain) by just procrastinating the sharpening of it.
Kinda like saving time not eating breakfast by taking twice as long to eat lunch.
I see your point about light touch ups keeping the chain in shape. I suppose that wouldnt take to long here n there. I guess I am more thinking in terms of hitting something and going from sharp to dull in like a nano second. I am talking about things inside the tree not hitting the ground. So no need to point out dont hit the ground.
 
Yeah, I'm only referring to giving each cutter two or three swipes with a file. Light touch ups.
Decent vise mounted to chipper fender.
I'm often hitting nails / lags / whatever embedded into a tree (which no customer ever recalls putting there, even during an interrogation under torture). "I don't know how that got in there, but we've only been here 17 years"
 

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