was wondering what the degree setting you are using when setting oregon bench grinding sharpening machine?I have been setting at 25 degrees as it was what i thought new stihl chain was by turning into brand new chain and checking degrees.Works ok and lasts a wfair amount of time between sharpening,but if there is is a more efficent setting i would love to know so i am hiking to the top of tree to inquire.
correct degree angle ffor bench grinder sharpening
- Thread starter treeshot
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25° for chisel tooth chain, 30° for semi-chisel. 10° for ripping chain?
And you can change these angles if you like something better.
And you can change these angles if you like something better.
thejdman04
Addicted to ArboristSite
30 all around for me
oceancruze1
ArboristSite Member
I have been told 30 degrees works well for me. Why not try a dremel tool and they have an adapter that helps you grind an angle at 30 and you can also get a grinding stone especially made for chainsaws where you buy dremels. Only $30 at Home Depot for the Dremel and its sharpened lickety split instead of paying the dealer $10 a chain.
OLD CHIPMONK
ArboristSite Guru
opcorn: O degrees -to cold- Look at the marks or lines on the top of each cutter- align your wheel to the mark- nothing like original angle opcorn: I beleive you set a down-angle of 10 degrees for the wheel-arm ?????????
Down angle at 60°. Just leave it there for everything. I haven't moved mine for 25 years: same machine, motor, table. Everything lasts on the Oregon grinder.
Some people offset the table by 10° for right & left cutters, but I never found that too practical.
Dremel tools are ok, but the tiny little files/grinders wear out too fast. Then you get different sharpening on the same chain, and they cost too much. I'd rather hand file than mess with the expense of the dremel tools. Not that they don't work quickly.
And yes, I do own a Dremel motor already.
Some people offset the table by 10° for right & left cutters, but I never found that too practical.
Dremel tools are ok, but the tiny little files/grinders wear out too fast. Then you get different sharpening on the same chain, and they cost too much. I'd rather hand file than mess with the expense of the dremel tools. Not that they don't work quickly.
And yes, I do own a Dremel motor already.
Last edited:
DRTS
New Member
we use oregon chains 72 lp or lg on almost all of our saws except the 200 t's. i find that the factory recomended angle of 25 60 to be the most versitile. i am pretty sure still recomends a 30 60 on most or all of the rs chains. you can certianly experiment though. some local loggers use a 25 45 witch does make a sharp knife like edge but i found doesnt stay sharp long.
There are different profiles of cutters on your chainsaw, each specifies its own angle. Learn to tell the difference!
Chisel tooth (regardless of manufacturer) has a square profile, cuts faster, and dulls faster when struck by dirt, rock, etc. Grind at 25°.
Semi-chisel tooth (regardless of manufacturer) has a slightly rounded but mostly square profile, cuts fast, and is less aggressive in a cut than Chisel tooth. ALL 3/8ths low profile chain is semi-chisel. Grind at 30°.
Older styles of chain, especially harvester chain are often "chipper-tooth" or "semi-chipper", and have a more rounded profile. They are easier to sharpen, and tolerate abrasive cutting conditions better.
Chisel tooth (regardless of manufacturer) has a square profile, cuts faster, and dulls faster when struck by dirt, rock, etc. Grind at 25°.
Semi-chisel tooth (regardless of manufacturer) has a slightly rounded but mostly square profile, cuts fast, and is less aggressive in a cut than Chisel tooth. ALL 3/8ths low profile chain is semi-chisel. Grind at 30°.
Older styles of chain, especially harvester chain are often "chipper-tooth" or "semi-chipper", and have a more rounded profile. They are easier to sharpen, and tolerate abrasive cutting conditions better.
Blast from the past...
Some funny stuff in this post.
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