couple of newbie questions about a Stihl Ms 261 chainsaw

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lonetoe

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couple of questions about a Stihl Ms 261 chainsaw

Hi all, my first post here. Thanks in advance for your help.

I recently moved up to a Stihl MS 261 after having used several consumer grade saws over the years that I was never very happy with. I love this saw, and wish I'd taken the plunge sooner.

I do have two questions about the saw:

(1) unlike other saws I have used, the muffler holes have these "star-shaped" plugs in them. They look a bit like like a triangle with flanges and a round center. There are slits in them through which the exhaust seems to escape just fine. It's clear that I could easily pop them out with a screwdriver, but the owners manual said nothing about them, so I have assumed they are supposed to be there, and I have been running the saw with them in place. The saw has been working flawlessly, so I'm figuring I made the right choice there, but thought I'd double check.

(2) I have been on the Oregon parts site, and went to the parts selector tool. I've been impressed with this tool in the past in that it seems to have so many models of saws listed. But surprisingly, it only lists the Stihl MS 260, and not the 261. Can I use the same chains on the 261 as on the 260? I know that using Stihl chains is better, but I have to do some pretty sloppy work where it will be hard to completely avoid making contact with the dirt a little bit. I'd rather do that with a cheaper chain than with one of the more expensive Stihl chains.

Thanks again for your help.
 
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Those stars are plugs that cover the bolts that hold the muffler on.

As far as bars and chains you can use any that fit the MS260, they use the same mount.

Welcome to AS !!
 
Welcome to the Jungle


Here is mine as you can see those plugs are not in it

DSC_7471.jpg


I carry a old chain with every time I going cutting you just don't know when you'll need it
 
Welcome to AS and congratulations on buying a great saw. You'll enjoy it.

The exhaust gas actually exits to the right of the saw above the chain. Look closely and you'll see a port with a spark arrestor screen inside the muffler. No worries there.

On the chain, you need to match up the bar on your saw with any chain brand you wish to use. Look on the bar right in front of the clutch cover and you should see engraved specifications on the bar. You need to know guage, pitch, and number of drive links (DL's). Typically you might expect to see .325 pitch, .063 gauge, and various number of DL's depending on the length of the bar, which should also be noted on the bar. You might have a saw with a heavier chain, in which case you'd expect to see 3/8" pitch, .050 gauge, and some number of DL's.

Pitch is a reference to the size of the chain, and it's basically the distance across 3 drive link rivets divided by 2. A pitch of .325" is less than 3/8 " , which is also written as .375" pitch. Gauge is the width of the opening in the bar rail that the chain rides in. Number of DL's is just that. Note that on equal length bars, a .325 pitch bar will actually require more DL's than a 3/8 bar because the .325 pitch bar has shorter links...

Good luck with your saw, keep it serviced and sharp and it will serve you well. Keep us posted and feel free to ask questions. We are here to help.
 
I don't doubt it is "solid", but it isn't really what a 50cc saw should be.....;)

It is surely a step up from the 260, though. For most guys cutting up trees or firewood, the wider powerband is an asset. Especially when it gets saddled with a 20" bar as seems the popular thing to do around here. :msp_mad:
 
I don't doubt it is "solid", but it isn't really what a 50cc saw should be.....;)

Sigh......why you gotta always do that Troll? I read on AS allot and always respect your opinion, as you have way more saw knowledge than I could ever hope to have.
If someone is contemplating a saw purchase, then by all means give your opinion, but when someone has already bought a good saw(maybe not the best in your opinion) and is excited about it, why always piss on their parade?
 
I don't doubt it is "solid", but it isn't really what a 50cc saw should be.....;)


I know because they run like a 60 cc saw

Just remember one thing about ST and Stihl saw he looks at pictures alot

ST; How much time do you have running a MS 261; Would love to here the answer to that one :wink2:



I'm just wondering if I should post all the quotes ST has said about the 261 and he has only looked at pictures of them and maybe held one in his hand at a dealer ?
 
Thanks all for the responses.

I'm sure everyone has a wide variety of tastes and preferences in saws, and I'm not nearly knowledgeable enough to have a strong opinion, but this saw does so much better than anything else I have used, I'm quite happy.

I appreciate everyone's help!
 
Oh and I'm running it with an 18" bar. I like the weight and balance better set up this way.
 
I'm sure everyone has a wide variety of tastes and preferences in saws, and I'm not nearly knowledgeable enough to have a strong opinion, but this saw does so much better than anything else I have used, I'm quite happy.

And that's what it's all about. If you like your saw, and it does a good job for you just use it and enjoy. There are always people who will put down what you're running and they usually don't have any real reason to.

Welcome to AS.
 
ST has lost so much creditably with readers is just plan silly
 
ST has lost so much creditably with readers is just plan silly

He's a walking chain saw encyclopedia. That's to be respected. He uses his knowledge to manipulate & troll, though :wink2:
 
Great Saw

Great Saw. Just get the carb adjusted properly ASAP.

Mine was running way too lean from factory. They are all basically set like that because of the silly EPA.:taped:

I think Idle is 2700rpm. WOT keep at 13,800 or so. Mine was screaming 14,400 out of box :msp_scared:

Adam
 
Thanks on all the tips guys. What's the reason behind semi-chisel for dirty conditions?

On the carb adustment, the dealer didn't mention anything about that. The saw sounds okay to me but I'm no expert. I guess I should get it checked out, but annoying that the dealer didn't mention it. I thought one of the points of buying a Stihl was having a good dealer close by.

I must say I had a hard time keeping the revs down on the first three tanks of gas (break-in). The saw is just raring to go, and before I knew it I had it totally opened up. :D Can't imagine that's too much of a risk, but if the carb wasn't set right.... hmmm.
 
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