couple of questions

[squirrel64]

I saw on this breakdown (illustration N Part #2)
http://bricomeca.free.fr/Stihl/stihl%20MS200T%20IPL.pdf

This part came with my 192. It's listed as a bumper strip. I think it's a piston stop If not a bumper strip, what else could it be

2nd Question What is the jack he's using to move the blocks ? Clip at 4:50

Beech Tree Rigging part 2 - YouTube

 

[troythetreeman]

bumper strip is generally under the clutch cover, its a replaceable piece of nylon/plastic that keeps the saw from getting chewed up or your chain from dulling when you throw a chain, but that part, judging by its shape and where its listed looks like a protective cover to go over the spikes in the front of the saw

as for the jack, im not sure what its called but if he either grew some arms or cut at an angle, he wouldnt need it

 

[Grace Tree]

Block Driver invented by Reg Coates; who is a member here.
I tried to link to the vid but it's hosted on another site and I guess AS block the name in the link but do a search on Reg Coates Block Driver and you can find the video.
Phil

 

[kr5258]

Piston stop (illustration N Part #2)

 

[atvguns]

Illistration A part #32 list the dog as a bumper spike so I would also say it is a strip to fit over the spike

 

[squirrel64]

(illustration N Part #2) This part comes with many new stihl saws. I just never knew where it went and or what it was used for.

And I know down through the years quite a few times I could have used that block driver. Not with blocks that small but you know what I mean. Pretty neat

 

[imagineero]

it's the piston stop. you need it when removing the clutch or flywheel. To be honest though, they suck. I've heard (but not seen it happen) stories of guys damaging pistons with them. A better idea is to use a bit of rope. Stick it in the spark plug hole until you cant stick any more in there. Much kinder on the piston. I use 8mm beeline but anything will work. Be sure the piston is above the exhaust port otherwise you can get rope jammed between piston and port.

Shaun

 

[squirrel64]

Yeah I always use string or twine. Thanks for all the answers and help

 

[Reg]

as for the jack, im not sure what its called but if he either grew some arms or cut at an angle, he wouldnt need it

In my humble defence Troy those logs were 500lb plus....beech is heavy.
View attachment 200534


Angled cuts all good and well if you dont mind cutting through the extra wood, those were sold for firewood in 12in rounds so sloping cuts would've been unacceptible really.

Watch part 1 and see how easy that tree comes apart....

[video=youtube;T19AHQnhzB4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T19AHQnhzB4]Beech tree Rigging part 1 - YouTube[/video]

adding puffed out arms, how would that've helped?

 

[tree MDS]

I can do the same thing without the pulley on the butt (just a regular drop hitch setup), and using just a porty.. all you have to do is push the wraps on the tip line forward, and wrap the butt on the end of the porty. lower the butt line off first. Awesome work though!

 

[Reg]

I can do the same thing without the pulley on the butt (just a regular drop hitch setup), and using just a porty.. all you have to do is push the wraps on the tip line forward, and wrap the butt on the end of the porty. lower the butt line off first. Awesome work though!

There are lots of ways to do it, I agree....but the position/angle of the tip-line and its rigging block were such that at aleast a couple of those the butts would shoot back with tremendous force after coming off the stump....hence the cutting technique, the position of the block in relation to its butt-line knot, and the 600lb pre-load on the line via the lowering device absolutely made sure the logs came off not headed in my direction. Every aspect absolute necessity without going considerably smaller, not a word of exageration. Thanks

Edit: sorry for the derail

 

[tree MDS]

There are lots of ways to do it, I agree....but the position/angle of the tip-line and its rigging block were such that at aleast a couple of those the butts would shoot back with tremendous force after coming off the stump....hence the cutting technique, the position of the block in relation to its butt-line knot, and the 600lb pre-load on the line via the lowering device absolutely made sure the logs came off not headed in my direction. Every aspect absolute necessity without going considerably smaller, not a word of exageration. Thanks

Edit: sorry for the derail

Less rope envolved in the way I would do it, results in no need to pretention... with proper climber postitioning, of course.

What's the derail? talking about taking down the top of the tree, vs. the trunk? not exactly two activities that are worlds apart IMO! lol.

 

[Reg]

Less rope envolved in the way I would do it, results in no need to pretention... with proper climber postitioning, of course.

What's the derail? talking about taking down the top of the tree, vs. the trunk? not exactly two activities that are worlds apart IMO! lol.

I guess all we can do is speculate....since that exact job with all those considerations involved can never again present itself....and saying what could have on an internet forum as opposed to actually being there and living it are two completely different things. Dont take that the wrong way brother, but you know what I'm saying right.

The derail: I only came on to defend my apparent scrawny appearance, not to discuss rigging and roping branches. thanks again

 

[troythetreeman]

In my humble defence Troy those logs were 500lb plus....beech is heavy.
View attachment 200534


Angled cuts all good and well if you dont mind cutting through the extra wood, those were sold for firewood in 12in rounds so sloping cuts would've been unacceptible really.

Watch part 1 and see how easy that tree comes apart....

[video=youtube;T19AHQnhzB4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T19AHQnhzB4]Beech tree Rigging part 1 - YouTube[/video]

adding puffed out arms, how would that've helped?

lol
fair enough, nice work too btw, ive taken enough big trees down in tight holes i shouldnt criticize someone elses work/methods
timely, smooth and damage free, no one can ask more
apologies

 

[Reg]

lol
fair enough, nice work too btw, ive taken enough big trees down in tight holes i shouldnt criticize someone elses work/methods
timely, smooth and damage free, no one can ask more
apologies

Troy no worries man, and glad you're able to laugh about it