Cracked crank threads...what do

[smcowboy1974]

If there's enough good threads left for the nut to fully thread onto the crankshaft with the flywheel installed i bet you could just run it.

That's what I'd do. It should be fine. Put it back together and run it.

 

[numnutz6383]

Could anyone tell me how pull the worm gear off the crank? Any OEM or homemade tools that can be used?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Could anyone tell me how pull the worm gear off the crank? Any OEM or homemade tools that can be used?

From memory- 3/4 inch pipe fitting threads on- then you make provision for a centre bolt ground to fit the crank end- fashioned up as a puller- just like the Husqvarna ones.
Dont break the crank on that side as well though.

 

[numnutz6383]

From memory- 3/4 inch pipe fitting threads on- then you make provision for a centre bolt ground to fit the crank end- fashioned up as a puller- just like the Husqvarna ones.
Dont break the crank on that side as well though.

Searching around on the site revealed @Mattyo showing his DIY method here. I'll take great care not to crack this one too. I also confirmed that the flywheel nut threads just fine on the damaged crank.

I did obtain a crankcase, but I'm not sure about the integrity of it's bearings, so I'll try my hand with the original.

This will probably be a method I'll have to use to remove the pressed on worm on my Jonesred 910 project as well.

 

[Jay Hansen]

Searching around on the site revealed @Mattyo showing his DIY method here. I'll take great care not to crack this one too. I also confirmed that the flywheel nut threads just fine on the damaged crank.

I did obtain a crankcase, but I'm not sure about the integrity of it's bearings, so I'll try my hand with the original.

This will probably be a method I'll have to use to remove the pressed on worm on my Jonesred 910 project as well.

Searching around on the site revealed @Mattyo showing his DIY method here. I'll take great care not to crack this one too. I also confirmed that the flywheel nut threads just fine on the damaged crank.

I did obtain a crankcase, but I'm not sure about the integrity of it's bearings, so I'll try my hand with the original.

This will probably be a method I'll have to use to remove the pressed on worm on my Jonesred 910 project as well.

Here's a picture of the puller I made.

 

[Mattyo]

I think id opt for a used crank. So much easier to split the case...put new bearings in and toss in a better crank than to attempt a weld there.

 

[numnutz6383]

I think id opt for a used crank. So much easier to split the case...put new bearings in and toss in a better crank than to attempt a weld there.

Honestly, I'm a little intimated by this. I've never done it, I don't have a splitter, and I'm concerned I can't get OEM parts. I've gone as far as search for and put the AM bearings, splitting tool and case gaskets in my cart, but haven't pulled the trigger.

 

[Mattyo]

Yeah .. this was intimidating for me as well when I started. Its why I invented my crank tools to help case assembly. Getting things apart isn't that difficult especially with a clamp type case splitter. Getting it back together without tooling is tricky...and requires experience. I tend to shy away from running saws with poor parts availability or ones that are annoying to work on. In your case...your saw dealer would normally be showing you the new saw rack. If you feel compelled to get this saw going then a case split is in order here otherwise you risk losing the flywheel at 13k rpm...yikes. best of luck.

 

[cbfarmall]

I know one of the Stihl pullers includes a little cap that fits over the crank threads. Distributes force and prevents the center nub from trying to split the end open. I'm thinking Dolmar did this as well. This very thing happened to my friend's Poulan s6000 (Dolmar 153). The crank is dainty at the threads.

Chris B.