Craftsman Auto Oiler Problem

[rance]

I have an old 10" Craftsman Saw (358.353630)

This is the first saw I ever bought. It's been great for almost 30 years of occasional use. I cut my teeth on this saw(not literally) by learning about adjusting the carb. etc. When I purchased it new, I purchased a spare chain and two files. I've never had to install the other chain. It's still in its package. Before most times when I use this, I take the files and touch up the chain by hand, just trying to follow the existing shape of the teeth. That method has worked fine.

Through the years, I've had to replace the fuel line from the tank to the carb twice due to it eventually getting brittle, no problem doing this myself. A couple of years ago I started it up after it sat for a year or so. It started fine but the oiler no longer was oiling the chain. I looked it up on www.searspartsdirect.com to get an idea of its innerds and completely dissassembled it. I found an internal tube from the oiler that was to an almost crystalized state of brittleness. I replace that with a short piece of fuel line and reassembled it. It still runs, but no luck with the oiler. I WAS happilly surprised to see that I was successful in entirely opening up the crankcase and putting it back together. My first time down to the piston removal level.

I've since bought a Poulan Model 2055 for $25 on CL and am mostly happy with it but I'd still like to get my 10" Craftsman oiling. It is just a little lighter for limbing, and it never fails to start. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Interesting site btw.

Rance

 

[Modifiedmark]

First off welcome to the site!

Secondly what took you so long as if you came here first you would have found there was no need to completly take that saw apart just to replace the hose from the oil pump to the bar pad.

I also want to mention that your Craftsman saw is actually a Poulan and is probably a model 1800.

You noticed how with time the rubber lines go to hell, then you need to know that there is a one way check valve in that oil system with a rubber one way valve in it that has probably gone to hell also.

The valve is located behind the clutch drum and looks like a hex bolt threaded into the case.

If you replace that, you will probably be back in business.

The part # is 530069142 and you can get it from Sears direct or any Poulan dealer.

Go to the thread listed at the top of the page named beg for manuals and ask for a Poualn micro service manual and it will explain it all.

 

[rance]

Mark,

Thanks for the welcome. I tried searching on arborsite but couldn't get the search to work. I googled outside of arborsite and found:
http://70.86.55.98/showthread.php?t=135755
This looks exactly like mine except for mine is red. A buddy of mine has the green Poulan model. Yeah, prob. the 1800. However, part # 530069142 is not on mine.

When I remove the bar, I can see the oil port from the case. I can't see how I could pull this without disassembly, but I could be wrong. It's been a few months since I looked at it but that's what I recall. I'll take another look when I get home. Actually, from the manual referenced below it exits the case just below a bolt (pg 28, bolt item 40). Now look at pg 5 at the diagram at the bottom left. You can see that same bolt. Just below that is the oil port coming out of the case. It just to the left of the horizontal slot below aforementioned bolt.

From the manual at http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/19321
The brittle internal line I replaced is shown as part 26 (Line - Oil Discharge).

Also from memory, I recall that a tube goes to the carb. that somehow connects to the oiling system. Is this true or am I way off base here? Inside the carb. where those tubes go are a couple of one way valves as part of a diaphram. I looked it over several times and could not see a hole in it (but that don't mean there ain't one). (Page 26/27 part 16 on the carb.)
The carb. is a Walbro wt-3.

>Go to the thread listed at the top of the page named beg for manuals
>and ask for a Poualn micro service manual and it will explain it all.

Will do, thanks for your help.

Better late than never: I should have mentioned that early on, I removed the chain/bar and started it up to see if it was spurting oil. It was not.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark,

Thanks for the welcome. I tried searching on arborsite but couldn't get the search to work. I googled outside of arborsite and found:
http://70.86.55.98/showthread.php?t=135755
This looks exactly like mine except for mine is red. A buddy of mine has the green Poulan model. Yeah, prob. the 1800. However, part # 530069142 is not on mine.

When I remove the bar, I can see the oil port from the case. I can't see how I could pull this without disassembly, but I could be wrong. It's been a few months since I looked at it but that's what I recall. I'll take another look when I get home. Actually, from the manual referenced below it exits the case just below a bolt (pg 28, bolt item 40). Now look at pg 5 at the diagram at the bottom left. You can see that same bolt. Just below that is the oil port coming out of the case. It just to the left of the horizontal slot below aforementioned bolt.

From the manual at http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/19321
The brittle internal line I replaced is shown as part 26 (Line - Oil Discharge).

Also from memory, I recall that a tube goes to the carb. that somehow connects to the oiling system. Is this true or am I way off base here? Inside the carb. where those tubes go are a couple of one way valves as part of a diaphram. I looked it over several times and could not see a hole in it (but that don't mean there ain't one). (Page 26/27 part 16 on the carb.)
The carb. is a Walbro wt-3.

>Go to the thread listed at the top of the page named beg for manuals
>and ask for a Poualn micro service manual and it will explain it all.

Will do, thanks for your help.

Better late than never: I should have mentioned that early on, I removed the chain/bar and started it up to see if it was spurting oil. It was not.

I didnt bother to check those links as I already have all the info needed but I double checked that part # that I gave you and it shows at the Sears parts site for that model as well and is a current Poulan part #

Yes your off base about any tubes from the carb to the oiler.

Here is a page from the service manual that shows how to replace that oiler tube. Go ahead and slap yourself on the forehead now. LOL

 

[rance]

Mark,

Well... dooooooh! (insert head slap here)

This gives me new energy to put forth toward the old beast. Yea, it is a beast. I've cut 16-18" logs with it's little 10" blade.

Not to mention I gave you the wrong model # for my saw. Aparently 358.353630 is for the coil spring. I'll have to update my palm pilot with a valid number. Once I find the REAL model # I'll 'beg' for one. I'm sure it'll come in handy in the future.

I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again man.

Rance

 

[rance]

OK, I pulled the oil pump cover again to make sure the tube 'appeared' to be installed correctly, it did. I put that cover back on. From other posts, that is in all reality, just a filter, not a pump.

I then located the one-way valve behind the clutch. Well how do you take THAT out? Viola, the bar wrench fits it (as long as I can get it in there). Painstakenly I loosened it 1/12th of a turn at a time. Well, after 15-20 minutes I finally got it out. First thing, blow, or suck on the screen end. I could get a slight bit of air in both directions. So it appear THAT is the problem.

1) Are those readilly available?
2) Is there an easier way to reinstall it(by removing the clutch, I suppose)?
..2a) Is the clutch easilly removed? Remove muffler, insert stick, rotate clutch(using what?).

I'll see if there's a local dealer tomorrow.

Rance (22405)

 

[Modifiedmark]

"OK, I pulled the oil pump cover again to make sure the tube 'appeared' to be installed correctly, it did. I put that cover back on. From other posts, that is in all reality, just a filter, not a pump."


Mostly but there is a check valve in that pump also. It's not serviceable though.





"I then located the one-way valve behind the clutch. Well how do you take THAT out? Viola, the bar wrench fits it (as long as I can get it in there). Painstakenly I loosened it 1/12th of a turn at a time. Well, after 15-20 minutes I finally got it out. First thing, blow, or suck on the screen end. I could get a slight bit of air in both directions. So it appear THAT is the problem."


Yes it shouldnt allow air but in one direction.

"1) Are those readilly available?"

Yes I gave you the part # already.


"2) Is there an easier way to reinstall it(by removing the clutch, I suppose)?
..2a) Is the clutch easilly removed? Remove muffler, insert stick, rotate clutch(using what?)."


You will need to remove the clutch as the new check valve will not have a hex head on it, but a screwdriver slot instead.

You can lock the piston by threading a small nylon rope in through the plug hole. You can then use a punch and hammer to remove the clutch.

Did you beg for the manual yet, you could use it.....