Want to Sell Craftsman, poulan 3300, poulan pro super 380

[Boomer 87]

I have three saws here, first two are one craftsman and a poulan 3300. The craftsman runs but is scored, the 3300 has a great bore and runs on a prime, but the fuel tank seam leaks. So i figured id sell em as a pair, and you could take the two and make one really nice one. The wrap handle on the craftsman is bent. $80 plus shipping. Bars and chains on both go with.

The other is a super 380, it fires up and runs but it is scored some too. Cosmetically looks pretty nice. PHO $75 plus shipping

 

[Boomer 87]

380 pending sale

 

[Newbee.pgh]

ive been reading various posts for months now looking for answers. More than half the time i was able to figure things out from others wisdom. Im mechanically inclined but these small motors are a different animal. Ive been tring to stick to some of the same make saws looking to see similarities but i keep buying different brands just becausr its a solid model of the make.. You seem to lime the poulans so im asking for advice. I bought a dayton 17in 50+ year old saw pratically brand new. Poulan 361. So when i bought it im convinced old gas killed it. The put full choke on 1 pull and it would have kept running i believe if he would have slid the choke to half quickly. Thats how strong it turned over. After that it never started again. I toom the screws off the top of tge choke( first person to ever do that) and it loomed decent. I tired to force to to run by drowning it with starter fluid after changing tbe gas pf course. Unconventional buti gpt itto run without any good trigger response by running it with one carb screw removed. Basically i wad just able to keep it running. I cant even figure out how to remove the carb for cleaning. Its so clean from observing tge top that it doesnt need rebuilt. I know i seem like a lost cause but id appreciate if ypu could tell me something

 

[Boomer 87]

You need to start with a carb rebuild, those saws are pretty simple, probably has a tillotson HS carb on it. If memory serves i think you can get the top screw out holding the carb on, the lower one has to be loosened with a wrench, and slid back just far enough to clear the manifold, then the carb can be wiggled out, the fuel line that connects the carb to the tank nipple has to come off at same time. Its probly super hard by this time you may have to cut it. Rebuild the carb cleaning out all the passages and put gaskets and diaphragms in, in exact order of the old ones, metering side should be gasket down first, then metering diaphragm, then cover. The pump side should be pump diaphragm first then gasket, then cover. Then put your carb back on. Also check the fuel filter and fuel line inside the tank.

 

[Boomer 87]

Bump still have the craftsman and poulan 3300

 

[Tpagel]

Bump