Crane removal techniques

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treeclimber165

Member A.K.A Skwerl
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Saw a discussion on another board about using cranes, and realized that we don't discuss cranes very often here. I've used cranes for removals probably over 150 times and learned my methods from an experienced crane removal climber. But before I go into detail, I wanted to see what you guys thought and what are your methods when approaching a removal from the standpoint of using a crane.

Climber tie-in methods (tied into the tree or to the crane?)
Attaching leads to the crane hook (tip heavy, butt heavy, balanced; how and why?)
Special cutting techniques used for crane jobs as opposed to regular rigging
Communication with crane operator
Anything else that you do different when using a crane for removals

I've found that most who don't use cranes say that they cannot justify the cost. I've found that with the proper techniques and setup, renting a crane will turn a 2 day job into a 5-6 hour job, easily paying the crane rental and then some.
 
Jumper

I have assisted in the sum total of one crane removal-which involved two very large maple trees that were planted right next to a house. This turned a three day job into a less than one day job, as there was no way to lower the trucks without a great degree of difficulty.

The climber was in the tree, and the larger pieces were lowered heavy end down, and placed on the front lawn for bucking and limbing.

You spoke of communications- the crane operator could not see or hear the climber, so I ended up being a relay with less than satisfactory "reception" by both parties. My duties and some basic hand signals both understood should have been explained beforehand to avoid:confused: :angry: :mad:
 
i've only been involved in about a dozen or so crane removals. the guy i use comes out of new jersey. he only does tree work with the crane. they have their own tree svc but do crane rentals also but only for tree work. if the tree is accessable with a bucket and crane he would bring both trucks. then we would tie in to the ball for the high cuts. if the tree was unaccessable with a bucket we would tie in on the ball and be placed in the tree. i just listened to their there game plan before i went up and did as told. since all they do was crane removals day in and day out. i figured they knew best. every thing always went smooth and i never had problem them. some times i would price 2 big removals a little cheap and bring him in and bang them both out in a day. if i had a really big tree to do i would just split the job with him. for the bucket and the crane for the day it cost me about 1700.00 for the day. so i had to get good money for tree to warrent a crane.
 
climber tie-in:
i've heard riding the block up is not exactly up to safety standards, but thats how i always did it.
if the attachment point is more or less vertical to where i'll make the cut i'll ride the block up to the attachment point, attach the branch then drop down, tie in with lanyard, unclip rope, pull it free from block and cut, repeat.
if attachment point is more horizontal, such that there would be a danger of swinging into the crane
(or ground, wires, house, etc.)
I'll set a second rope in tree, and repeat above procedure except that i'll be double crotched into block and tree when traversing to the point where i'll make my cut.
it's always preferable if the crane operator can raise branch up perfectly vertical to cut so that upon release there is no swing or bucking action at all.
 
There are rules about using a crane for personal support. I have yet to find a crane operator that would let me tie into the crane. If something happened, he'd be screwed, glued, and tattooed. Manbasket only, around here.

I've heard of guys tieing into the same crane that's lifting and I first think to myself, "death or injury", then I think to myself, "Lawsuit".

Done properly, I would think the piece is tied off, supporting pressure is applied, a snap cut is made, the climber evacuates, then the peice is broken off and moved. If the tree can't be climbed, then it's two cranes, one with a manbasket, one for lifting.
 
MM is write on several points-...........

O noooooooo, i can't say that!!!

But seriously, i ain't done me no 150 crane jobs, in fact rig when others say i need or require crane!

i think the cut, evacuate, let crane take by flexing snap or narrow hinge (that contrary to all the felling stuff, shears early). Unless, there is such structurall weakness that it wouldn't take a snap. i also taake my loop runners with me to hitch off dead wood that might injure people or property by coming off during crane handling! Also, one of my first concerns at every stop is to open up window between myself and operator.

As far as riding the ball up, ............um your not supposed to, but i have tied in with a round turn on the hook with lanyard; backed up by choked lifeline redirect sling, with lifeline loop on top. That is 3x tied in, lifted by a device with a SWL of 30-100 tons. i have 'em place me high center, tie lifeline in (break tail apart ie. seperate tail) leaving 2 connections to the hook. Then change over to tree support. Not recommending breaking code, just being honest! As long as ya don't get slapped around, against tree by wind or opertator, i think that is fairly positive. then i might slacken life line and have hook deliver me to high vertical, choke off top and repel down. Sometimes, have a seperate 40' line, for tying into choke point, and coming down it, rather than being pulled towards my main tie in.

Mostly i try to hitch off limbs with positive bottom weight (choking high) on verticals, letting it invert and other trix can impact that high leverage of the crane with awesome force!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i think cranes are mainly for lifting and moving controlled, steady loads. So i take serious second guessing before triying to much swivelling, dropping into the hook etc. Also, the cable has less buffering than a line, so any impacting is even more dangerous, especially with the heavy loads that require a crane.

Nice hinge control and scheduling coydawgy! Another thing we might do if front is clear (or other open box) is swivel limb (if necessary) let heavy head down in box (now green is heavy so you don't have to go to the extreme point to set it); then cut off (ground is supporting head), nad have crane pick up limb from this position; once again butt is light here so it comes up. Once again all lifting action by crane, no shock.

Get the crane as close as possible, extend the boom as much as posssible, use gib when reasonable. These all put the boom at less of an angle (more vertical-strongest position), so is more positive lifting. Even if let down zone is a lil farther away, than tree; it is probably easier to see; and it is easier (IMAO) for the crane to lift the weight close, then throw the load away smoothly to clear zone, than to lift at slighter disadvantage do to angle of support. A crane is rated by how much support at what angle; just like you could hold a bucket of sand up longer (arm extended) at 1:00 than 2:00 or 3:00 etc.


P.S>jsut posted as Spike was too, i try always to dawg in at an imperfetion with choker, or make my own, if in doubt i've given choker a round turn before threading eye.
 
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when taking out the stick do you guys use lifting tongs or slings? i've used both. and kind of prefer the tongs over slings unless you set up 2 slings to keep the piece straight. the guys i know once had a piece slip out of a sling. now if they use a sling they cut a notch or 2 in the stick so the sling can't slip.
 
I don't think tongs are allowed in that type of work??? Suprised trhe crane company would do it. You need smoe type of choking device be it chain, cable or fabric.

I think using 2 slings is best for any type of pick. lends more stability while in motion.

But then all the picks I've done are GRCS type operations, not ones where multiple tons of load are being moved.
 
There is a great article in the May 2002 issue of TCI on cranes. To renew my ins. this year I have to fill out a Crane Supplemental App. ,.... more money I quess,but I do 2-3 crane removals per week so it is for the best.
 
monkeypuzzle

I'd be interested in hearing more about what methods work best for you. I've heard about people tying into the crane, having two climbers- one to rig and one cutting. Seems like a total waste of manpower to me. As for tying into the crane, it wasn't allowed for a long time. Then the laws changed, as long as you were double tied with all rated rigging (lifeline, harness, etc.). I've ridden the hook to get into the top of trees many times, but once in the tree I don't re-tie to the crane. As in regular rigging, you try to keep your lifeline well away from your rigging point.

I've found it most efficient to have 2-3 slings (I prefer the Yellow Tuflex slings, next rating higher than the green) so I can be rigging the next cut while the crane is moving the previous one. I was taught to 'notch for the sky', hooking the limb butt-heavy. I make my notch aiming towards the crane's line of lift, get some tension on the cable, and under(back) cut an inch or two out past my notch so I leave a step. Once my back cut is deep enough, I put my saw away and move clear. Then I signal for the crane operator to lift, the lead raises and breaks away without any stress or jerking on the crane.
I've had crane operators try to 'help' me by jerking on the limb while I'm cutting. I've dang near come out of a tree to wring their neck for jerking on a 2000lb lead while I'm cutting on it! :angry:
 
My father places all the slings for me while I just sit and wait to make the cut.It takes no time at all to place a sling or even two if you need to balance the load.He stays tied in at all times to the ball,an if he needs to move over a few few feet to place another balance sling the crane opeator just moves the ball to where he feels it should be placed. Every cut is different as every tree is different. Now when the tops are off Iplace the slings myself,since it would be a waste of manpower,and then the crane can just wrap the sling around the pole for you.
 
I feel that the crane operator her in Tally is about the best in N.Fla. use to use another company but they killed a guy buy sticking him into hot wires,and this wasn't even tree work they were doing.I don't know the facts but we don't call on them anymore,and they started using that silly basket thing,and I WAS NOT going to eat the cost or learning how to use the darn thing.


A qualified arborist may be hoisted into position usng a crane,provided that he/she is TIED in with a arborist climbing line and arborist saddle and secured to a designated anchor point on the boom or line.(Z133 6.7.6)
 
How long have you been doing tree ......... he he, just funnin,, I just hang and keep a birds eye view of the ground work,and yes I do have to move about from time to time.What should I be doing?

Now keep in mind that we are talking about a 60 year old man here, Mike, the old fellow comes to the ground off the ball which he never comes untied from. I must say he will make his rope smoke.
 
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