Crane removal techniques

[ORclimber]

Just did my first "real" crane job in about 7 years. It was kind of different dealing with the pull of the crane. Gravity didn't work like normal. Pinched the 200 and 266 a few times popping tops. Narrow holding wood that would easily snap if the tops were being dumped seemed to not break free. Sure beats doing trees the hard way.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Pinching is to be expected

Try to make the finishing cut with the tip of the bar.


Ya know how you see some fool sawing with the bar? Back and forth? Like a rookie might do, cutting a log on the ground?

Well, in a crane cut thats how you do it to help from getting the bar pinched in the final cut. And try to do it with the last 8" of the bar.

And keep a tiger eye!

 

[ORclimber]

Will try

 

[mmayo]

Originally posted by Treeman14
Also, I didn't see any mention of a technique we routinely use for attaching the chokers to the cable. We shackle the choker above the ball so that after the piece is choked, the climber can be lowered on the ball to the cutting position. With a long choker, you've got almost 20 feet of lateral movement and infinite vertical movement. After the climber is unhooked from the ball, the cable is brought up and snugged. [/B]

I just worked with this method the other day...very energy efficient. Basically the crane moves you to tie and cut in seconds, it's wonderful. There is definately a place for many different cutting techniques as well. The bottom line other than safety of course is the final bet on what the last trunk pick weighs. Farthest off buys the beer!!

 

[xtremetrees]

THe way Arborist taught me to do cranes.
By the way dude owned it broke his first boom trying to lift his truck out the bog. Suckion caused the boom to bend bad but not break.

1. Loop runner above ball with auto locking biner.
2. Tie into biner with split tial.
3. Strap safety into hook for insurance.
4. Boom to top.
5. Attach safety to top.
6 Attach straps tighten up slightly.
7 Rapell to cut. safety in. Loosen blakes slightly.Untie standing part of rapell line. Pull rapelling/climbing line thru biner on ball, pull all rope thru blakes running smoothly.
8 Retie climbing line below safety.
9 Make your cut.

I only ride the crane on the first inital pick. After that its all climbing.
Murder by numbers.

 

[Dadatwins]

Having just done bunch of crane work after Isabel used method similar to others steel cable with clevis high up to keep limb butt heavy. Choke up on side to be lifted so limb does not spin after cut. Small notch in direction I want limb to go (away from me)
make back cut almost all the way the through. Back away and signal crane. Method works on most wood that pop. Stringy like elm is another story.
Used really good operator with 65 ton and 100 foot boom. Think operator makes all the difference best tree guy in the world with bad operator dangerous combo.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by Dadatwins
Think operator makes all the difference best tree guy in the world with bad operator dangerous combo.

When I have the unfortunate opportunity to work with a less than experienced crane operator I let him know that I expect him to follow my direction and hand signals.

That usually works.

But it is best when the two work together as one. Whoa... big insight!

 

[Dadatwins]

Originally posted by MasterBlaster
When I have the unfortunate opportunity to work with a less than experienced crane operator I let him know that I expect him to follow my direction and hand signals.

And when operator screws up some of those hand signals and direction have nothing to do with tree.