Crane work up close....

[Reg]

….is what Sean was after. He’s a young climber with lots of promise by all accounts….I’ve never actually seen or worked with him. I’ve known his Dad for years though who was and still is top notch in his own style of treework. He asked if Sean could come along and watch for the day….people have asked me this before and I always forget but on this occasion bumped into Mark (the dad) a couple of days before.

I tried to explain to Sean what we were doing as we went along. The crane was reaching quite a way, evident by some of the deflection, and obviously the operator and I couldn’t see one another.

Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G0Op6eZkSM

Part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HmLLfdFdTs

 

[mattfr12]

nice video im always am interested to see how others work with a crane. do you ever use what we call a shelf cut on trunk pieces that are almost straight up and down. when i say trunk piece i mean pieces of the tree that arnt horizontal more straight up. shelf cut to us is where you make one cut on left side of log that goes half way through then you make a second cut on right side of log that goes half way through but comes in an inch or so higher than your first cut. i do that on alot of straight logs so i can spike down a foot or so below the pick. the crane ususally has to use very little effort to break the holding wood.

you and your crew work smooth and you move well in the tree you should come see some of thies guys we got over here in the states. to many hacks over here.

 

[tree MDS]

Nice work as always reg.

Sean is lucky to get the opportunity to work with you, thats for sure.

 

[outofmytree]

Always something to learn on your videos Reg. Thanks for uploading this one.

 

[Mike Cantolina]

Always something to learn on your videos Reg. Thanks for uploading this one.

+1

Thanks

 

[tree md]

nice video im always am interested to see how others work with a crane. do you ever use what we call a shelf cut on trunk pieces that are almost straight up and down. when i say trunk piece i mean pieces of the tree that arnt horizontal more straight up. shelf cut to us is where you make one cut on left side of log that goes half way through then you make a second cut on right side of log that goes half way through but comes in an inch or so higher than your first cut. i do that on alot of straight logs so i can spike down a foot or so below the pick. the crane ususally has to use very little effort to break the holding wood.

you and your crew work smooth and you move well in the tree you should come see some of thies guys we got over here in the states. to many hacks over here.

Matt, that is how I learned to do it with the first guy I learned crane work from. Only I would make a face cut and a back cut. He wanted me to be under the pick while he snapped it off. Said he wanted my head below the cut.

Nice work Reg.

 

[Reg]

Thanks guys

Matt I used to use that cut almost exclusively....still do but much less the last few years. I guess if I switched crane companies I might have to resurrect it once more, at least until we got into the swing of things.

 

[treevet]

Nice video. Much more interesting although less dramatic than OD's.

I do not see why you do not back cut more prior to finishing cut and you would not get bound so much?

I also am surprised not to hear more descriptive terminology to the crane op such as ....cable up...cable down....boom up....boom down...boom in....boom out ....boom left....boom right (op's left and right).....and any combinations thereof. Your orders such as bring it a closer to you, etc. would be qualified more by "in up" or "in down" etc.

Anyway, I know you often work with different crews and this may be the reason. Thanks for the vids Reg although it is hard to watch such beautiful beeches get torn apart as they are my fave. opcorn:

 

[Reg]

Nice video. Much more interesting although less dramatic than OD's.

I do not see why you do not back cut more prior to finishing cut and you would not get bound so much?

Pardon me Dave, I'm not sure what you mean?

I also am surprised not to hear more descriptive terminology to the crane op such as ....cable up...cable down....boom up....boom down...boom in....boom out ....boom left....boom right (op's left and right).....and any combinations thereof. Your orders such as bring it a closer to you, etc. would be qualified more by "in up" or "in down" etc.

We're pretty relaxed about the whole thing....Andy understands me good and we always talk things through before and during the job....he's switched on as well, have no fear.

If they had been difficult trees or poor radio reception I might be a little sharper with instructions, but for the best part thats pretty much how we talk to one another. Thanks

 

[treevet]

Pardon me Dave, I'm not sure what you mean?

Don't take this as criticism but I just love to talk about crane work as does everyone else judged by the forums and trade mags.

If you meant the first sentence then I meant I like your vids better than the hi speed ones that you cannot see what is going on (although they are more dramatic at blurring high speed).

If you meant the second sentence...... I am wondering why you do not make a (I call it) back cut (face cut....not box/scarf/notch. In doing so (making a face cut) you lose the risk of holding wood at the end of the cut and pinching the saw when the piece does not detach and things becoming very awkward. With the face cut (I generally cut through half way and then make a perfect matching cut on the finishing cut)..

you gain the advantage of a fulcrum to "snap" off the piece when the front opening works against the back opening and the holding wood cannot "tear" off or hold as easily. Seems to me that was the whole problem on the California tip over disaster all in the news a couple of months ago.

We're pretty relaxed about the whole thing....Andy understands me good and we always talk things through before and during the job....he's switched on as well, have no fear.

If they had been difficult trees or poor radio reception I might be a little sharper with instructions, but for the best part thats pretty much how we talk to one another. Thanks

I was just commenting on the possibility of more descriptive language that is standard with my jobs especially with booming over a house and blind to each other like in the vid. I also have developed very specific hand signals that preclude the need for microphone contact if no house is in the way.

Also I was curious if you ever use steel slings or I think you guys sometimes use chains. If you are getting slippage on a piece such as smooth barked beech and you don't feel you have a choke under a fork as you told your student.....then would not a steel cable eliminate that slippage. That is what we use in that instance. Seems like slippage on a piece could be very risky at times.

Regards, Dave

 

[sprung22]

Great vid as always Reg.When did you switch to the husky top handle?And why?

 

[Reg]

Don't take this as criticism but I just love to talk about crane work as does everyone else judged by the forums and trade mags.

If you meant the first sentence then I meant I like your vids better than the hi speed ones that you cannot see what is going on (although they are more dramatic at blurring high speed).

If you meant the second sentence...... I am wondering why you do not make a (I call it) back cut (face cut....not box/scarf/notch. In doing so (making a face cut) you lose the risk of holding wood at the end of the cut and pinching the saw when the piece does not detach and things becoming very awkward. With the face cut (I generally cut through half way and then make a perfect matching cut on the finishing cut)..

you gain the advantage of a fulcrum to "snap" off the piece when the front opening works against the back opening and the holding wood cannot "tear" off or hold as easily. Seems to me that was the whole problem on the California tip over disaster all in the news a couple of months ago.




I was just commenting on the possibility of more descriptive language that is standard with my jobs especially with booming over a house and blind to each other like in the vid. I also have developed very specific hand signals that preclude the need for microphone contact if no house is in the way.

Also I was curious if you ever use steel slings or I think you guys sometimes use chains. If you are getting slippage on a piece such as smooth barked beech and you don't feel you have a choke under a fork as you told your student.....then would not a steel cable eliminate that slippage. That is what we use in that instance. Seems like slippage on a piece could be very risky at times.

Regards, Dave

You mean opposing (matching) cuts Dave? I'll do it if it becomes apparent that I’ve started cutting on the wrong side of a vertical (the kerf is closing on me). I actually stopped Sean from doing that in the very first cut shown in the vid. I much prefer to chase the holding wood to the outside so the cut is able to open and give me a good indication as to/in case we are already too tight or too slack....either way the situation can be corrected before the last of the holding wood is severed.

On the contrary, if your holding wood is in the middle it's very difficult to tell how accurately you've pre-loaded it until you cut right through....at which point it could just go pop, or it could go Bang! With rookies I put money on the latter....so I personally feel the advice I gave him will make the situation easier and safer to work out (5.40 in the 1st vid). When he finds his feet he can try other things of course.

Dave I do talk appropriately when need be. Of course I had to guide Andy to every pick-point but left it out of the video.

I’ve never had a sling slip, ever. I've had a few moments with chains on horizontals where a branch/limb has rolled because of the weight of the foliage. Chains are not the best where this might happen. I warned him about slippage so it stuck in his mind and he doesn't take anything for granted.
Thanks.

 

[Reg]

Great vid as always Reg.When did you switch to the husky top handle?And why?

Sprung, I've had bad carbs on the last two 200ts that I had....

So when I was offered a 338 for free of course I said yes. Its different, certainly not better than the Stihl but it hasn't given me problem of those other two. Thanks again

 

[mattfr12]

as you have stated reg i also prefer chasing the holding wood also because as you have said you can tell what kinda load the crane has on the pick by simply looking at the gap if it is closing on your bar you simply dont have enough tension if it is opening to rapidly you have to much tension.

on straight large pieces of wood such as trunk i make snap cuts or shelf cuts and spike below the pick as the crane lifts it away.

we also always use straps thier easier to work with in my opinion but to each his own and have also never seen a properly seated strap slip.

take a running bowline for instanance it will hold a straight lead during rigging under shockload and has less bite than a strap due to the knots.

 

[mattfr12]

Sprung, I've had bad carbs on the last two 200ts that I had....

So when I was offered a 338 for free of course I said yes. Its different, certainly not better than the Stihl but it hasn't given me problem of those other two. Thanks again

the diaphrams always go out on me on the 200's causing the saw to not be able to throttle up past idle. i carry atleast two 200t's on everyjob due to them going out on me more than once now. but when thier running they are about the best in thier class.

 

[treevet]

as you have stated reg i also prefer chasing the holding wood also because as you have said you can tell what kinda load the crane has on the pick by simply looking at the gap if it is closing on your bar you simply dont have enough tension if it is opening to rapidly you have to much tension.

on straight large pieces of wood such as trunk i make snap cuts or shelf cuts and spike below the pick as the crane lifts it away.

we also always use straps thier easier to work with in my opinion but to each his own and have also never seen a properly seated strap slip.

take a running bowline for instanance it will hold a straight lead during rigging under shockload and has less bite than a strap due to the knots.

I disagree and if you have to constantly tiptoe around the cut (chase the holding wood= pinches and holding wood) then you may need a little more experience at judging the choke postition to not worry about a butt kicking up.

As for straps never slipping....also another inaccurate statement and if you get a bite on a steel choker....it is never going anywhere once set. I also predominantly use canvas chokers and heavy double braid lanyards to pick though. Different tools for different strokes for different folks.

 

[treevet]

the diaphrams always go out on me on the 200's causing the saw to not be able to throttle up past idle. i carry atleast two 200t's on everyjob due to them going out on me more than once now. but when thier running they are about the best in thier class.

never heard of such a thing or had this happened to me. I buy 2 new 200's every 3 years or so and down grade the old ones to groundies and have used them since they were first on the market. I always carry 2 on each job too (for myself) but more for a sharp one if it strikes metal etc.

 

[mattfr12]

never heard of such a thing or had this happened to me. I buy 2 new 200's every 3 years or so and down grade the old ones to groundies and have used them since they were first on the market. I always carry 2 on each job too (for myself) but more for a sharp one if it strikes metal etc.

its not a frequent thing and has only happened to me twice but when it does happen thier pretty much worthless it can happen on any saw but it usually takes heavy use before such a thing does happen.

the last saw that did it to me was a 4 year old 200t that was used atleast 5 days a week so it takes alot of use to get it thier.

 

[Reg]

we also always use straps thier easier to work with in my opinion but to each his own and have also never seen a properly seated strap slip.

You mean flat-sligs Matt? I have a couple of 4m/4t. Definitely lighter than their equivlent in round slings. But notice that I was using a shackle to set the choker....a flat sling doesn't sit as well when applying it in this manner, unless the shackle is massive!

I disagree and if you have to constantly tiptoe around the cut (chase the holding wood= pinches and holding wood) then you may need a little more experience at judging the choke postition to not worry about a butt kicking up.

As for straps never slipping....also another inaccurate statement and if you get a bite on a steel choker....it is never going anywhere once set. I also predominantly use canvas chokers and heavy double braid lanyards to pick though. Different tools for different strokes for different folks.

Dave I think Sean will be ok....at least it appeared that the information was sinking in. Lets not forget he can rig a tree conventional style, apparently....and I showed him how to apply the Stabilizers where theres a risk of the butt kicking back at him. However well he takes to it, its still a lot more than anyone ever showed me when I was starting out.

 

[treevet]

You mean flat-sligs Matt? I have a couple of 4m/4t. Definitely lighter than their equivlent in round slings. But notice that I was using a shackle to set the choker....a flat sling doesn't sit as well when applying it in this manner, unless the shackle is massive!



Dave I think Sean will be ok....at least it appeared that the information was sinking in. Lets not forget he can rig a tree conventional style, apparently....and I showed him how to apply the Stabilizers where theres a risk of the butt kicking back at him. However well he takes to it, its still a lot more than anyone ever showed me when I was starting out.

I agree....I invented everything I did, at least as far as I was concerned. Trial and error. Nobody was doing crane assisted removals back when I started.