Crank seal leaking at housing

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I have a saw with a crank seal that's leaking at the housing of the saw body, not the seal itself. Any suggestions on how to seal this off without removing it? I would like to be able to remove the seal in the future if I have to, so it can't be something permanent.
 
What about pulling a vacuum on the saw and applying sealant to area where the leak is and see if it will pull the sealant in to seal off?
This does work. You need a thin sealant like Moto seal that can flow to make it work though. It took me two tries to get it to seal. First time I pulled vacuum on the sealant too hard and exposed the leak. I let it harden up and went out the next day and did it again and it was good to go the second time
 
It's a NLA seal, the clutch side of a Homelite xl76. There's one (dichtomatik 0609318tc) that comes close but it's meant for a .625 crank and the Homelite is about 30 thou larger. The old seal lip itself isn't leaking, so I prefer to keep it.

I wound up using some crazy glue, it was the thin type and I used a toothpick to apply it around the edge of the seal where it meets the body of the saw. I let it sit for several hours before I tested it, and under positive pressure there were no leaks.
The saw runs much better now at idle, and I had to open up the throttle plate with the idle stop screw to bring the idle speed up where it should be to keep it from stalling. A good sign as it shows it isn't sucking in air anymore passed the seal edge.
There's still a problem with the tendency to stall when you quickly tip the saw forward, I blame this on the carb, it's very large for the saws displacement and I'm pretty sure it has gas pooling problems that want to flood the saw out when you tip it forward. If you blip the throttle when you tip it forward it won't stall out and it will actually stabilize in that position. It also runs perfectly fine when you tip it on both sides, and as there was no sign of leakage on the crank seals after the fix I'm pretty sure they're okay.

This saw has a lot more power than an xl12 that I used to have, the most noticeable thing is the better high RPM performance, this thing really revs and would do even better if it weren't for the lousy governor on the carb which actually makes it kind of hard to tune the high end.
 
I have an 038 magnum that the bearing let go in. Part of the bearing jammed in the seal and spun the seal in the cases. A new seal was loose in the cases.
My fix unfortunately requires changing the seal; I used Loctite 638 retainer compound. It worked great and the saw has been going 2 years strong. I thought about the suction idea but feared the vacuum may pull it into the bearing!
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