Creosote.. How much is to much

[CrappieKeith]

To answer the question that I saw...a barometric draft regulator needs to be set with a manometer.....we have them for 58$ if needed.
Draft regulators typically get set in the range of.03 inches to .06 inches of water column. A typical draft speed without a draft regulator runs in the neighbor hood of .08 inches.
The speed would depend on what the unit was designed to have for a draft speed.
We run our furnaces at .03" with flue gas temps in the neighborhood of 400 degrees. This temp is inside the flue not outside.

Burning wood is a job. The paychecks are nice for what work is envolved.
Brushing flues is part of that job. As a wood burner I will not burn wood that is over 20% moisture.I tried that...what a mess.I tried mixing too...still a mess.
I brush my flue(18 feet worth of 6") once a year. I have done this for 13 years.
If stack temps never get over 400 degrees it is impossible for the creosote that is there to start combustion. If it should light there will be a 3200 fire in my flue...here is where having a good HT metal flue inside of a masonry chimney keeps me full of serinity.
I could brush my flue a bit more ,but I'm not worried. I burn mine hot often.

 

[logbutcher]

Burning wood is a job. The paychecks are nice for what work is envolved.
Brushing flues is part of that job. As a wood burner I will not burn wood that is over 20% moisture.I tried that...what a mess.I tried mixing too...still a mess.
I brush my flue(18 feet worth of 6") once a year. I have done this for 13 years.
If stack temps never get over 400 degrees it is impossible for the creosote that is there to start combustion. If it should light there will be a 3200 fire in my flue...here is where having a good HT metal flue inside of a masonry chimney keeps me full of serinity.
I could brush my flue a bit more ,but I'm not worried. I burn mine hot often.

:agree2::agree2::agree2:

 

[Constrictor]

This may sound a little obcessive to some of you but I run the brush down mine once a week need it or not. I live in a single story home with a 4/12 pitch roof, the brush stays on the roof and the ladder stays set up all winter. If I am burning hot I very seldom get anything out at all, burning during the warmer months I will maybe get three to four handfulls of the flaky stuff. I too sleep better at night knowing that the chimney is clean.

Ive wondered about shingle life if your up there walking on it weekly, wont the shingles wear out way to quick?

 

[dustytools]

Ive wondered about shingle life if your up there walking on it weekly, wont the shingles wear out way to quick?

Yes, I think that it will cause them to wear out rather quickly too. Im not too worried about it though, we are putting on a metal roof in the spring. For now though I have been trying to walk the ridge cap most of the time (flue is close to the ridge) and it doesnt seem to show much wear.

 

[SpiralAcacia]

and several guys have good luck with the beer can method.

What's that? Sounds interesting!
I'd love to learn of an effective way to clean the flue!

What's more, 'specially if it has to do with beer!!


SA

 

[builder1101]

What's that? Sounds interesting!
I'd love to learn of an effective way to clean the flue!

What's more, 'specially if it has to do with beer!!


SA

besides grinding and brushing, i think the next best and easiest way to clean a flue is to...BURN IT OUT!

and yes, involves beer, drink it and watch it!

our shop has the stove pipe going out the wall, and it's centered in doubled up 14 gauge steel, 3ftx3ft

so yeah, i open the door and let it rip. bellows and draws so hard, ambient temps are cooler to stand in FRONT of the stove with the door is open then to stand near the sides or rear.

 

[dingeryote]

What's that? Sounds interesting!
I'd love to learn of an effective way to clean the flue!

What's more, 'specially if it has to do with beer!!


SA

Just toss an empty Aluminum can in the fire.

As the Aluminum oxidizes, some of the gasses given off are the exact same as those emitted by the commercially available creosote killers.

There are a couple threads here that cover the matter, and posts include several science type discussions on the matter.

In theory at least, it works to reduce build up somewhat.
No replacement for good burning practices and the brush though.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[logbutcher]

Yes, I think that it will cause them to wear out rather quickly too. Im not too worried about it though, we are putting on a metal roof in the spring. For now though I have been trying to walk the ridge cap most of the time (flue is close to the ridge) and it doesnt seem to show much wear.

What are you paying for the metal roof Dusty ? We checked out the metal roof options, but it was at least 3X-6X the cost of a standard 30 year shingle roof, it's not a DIY, makes noise in rain and sleet for our cathedral ceiling in 1/2 the house, and it is tough to walk up when over 6 pitch. Besides, we both figured that we'd not be coming down for breakfast in 30 years . So, why worry about the lifetime guarantee of metal roofs ?.

I use the roofers' trick on our 10 pitch roof: carpet underlayment to walk up. The roof pros call it a "roof magnet". Works like a charm. I also rope into a belay ( too many close climbing falls ) for any work on the roof. The belt and suspenders. Rule: NO roof work in wet, in below freezing, high winds, or when there's any hint of snow/ice anywhere on the roof. Really chicken of the roof. :jawdrop:

 

[dustytools]

What are you paying for the metal roof Dusty ? We checked out the metal roof options, but it was at least 3X-6X the cost of a standard 30 year shingle roof, it's not a DIY, makes noise in rain and sleet for our cathedral ceiling in 1/2 the house, and it is tough to walk up when over 6 pitch. Besides, we both figured that we'd not be coming down for breakfast in 30 years . So, why worry about the lifetime guarantee of metal roofs ?.

I use the roofers' trick on our 10 pitch roof: carpet underlayment to walk up. The roof pros call it a "roof magnet". Works like a charm. I also rope into a belay ( too many close climbing falls ) for any work on the roof. The belt and suspenders. Rule: NO roof work in wet, in below freezing, high winds, or when there's any hint of snow/ice anywhere on the roof. Really chicken of the roof. :jawdrop:

The roofing metal was given to me by the company that I work for. It is four rib galvalume panel roof sheet. We had such an overstock of leftover Panel-rib roof panels in the shop yard that the boss told me to get them the hell out of there. The only thing that I will have to buy will be the screws and ridge-cap. It will be a weekend project for me and a few of the guys from one of our sheeting crews. The sound of rain and sleet hitting a metal roof will make me sleep like a baby. Another trick for staying on steep shingle roofs is an old foam couch or chair cushion, they stick to shingles like a magnet also.