cutter rocks rearward underload

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loveroftrees

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Ok now don't call me newbie. But I have to ask the question. What is the cause and fix for "cutter rocks rearward under load". Please don't say wrong angel of file, you need to explain what angel and to what degree. I would like drawings with arrows. This is a time for the smarts to rise to the top and educate the uneducated... Thank you in advance for your help..bob
 
Now that makes sense. Will the tension of the chain have an effect on the size of the chip? If too tight it will not let the cutter rock or roll?... thank-you for your time....bob
 
Not only that... but it will cause unwanted drag, and your chainspeed will be slower. It forces the saw to work much harder than it needs to, and also causes excess heat on the bar and chain.

Gary
 
Not only that... but it will cause unwanted drag, and your chainspeed will be slower. It forces the saw to work much harder than it needs to, and also causes excess heat on the bar and chain.

Gary

Yup, what he said.

I'd be hard pressed to draw anything, but the rocking is determined, among other things, by the amount of life left in the chain. That's why the distance between the raker and the top of the cutter changes (or SHOULD change!) over the life of the chain. As the chain wears, the front of the cutter gets closer and closer to the rear pivot, so the "vertical" distance between the top of the raker and the top of the cutter has to be adjusted to allow it to pull the same size chip.

Danny Tilton explained it very well in a safety video my dealer lent me, and I wish I could do a better job of it.
 
[. As the chain wears, the front of the cutter gets closer and closer to the rear pivot, so the "vertical" distance between the top of the raker and the top of the cutter has to be adjusted to allow it to pull the same size chip.
Now that is something I've not takin into consideration. Great point, I have always filed the racker flat on top but now I will take all chains and give them a little rear slope. Just like when they were new. Sometimes the little things are the difference between alright and outstanding... Thanks for the time to explain.....bob
 
KofT... Do you have a filing gauge for your rakers??? They should be filed to .025 at least. The raker filing gauges are cheap and will keep your rakers all the same depth.

This one is availablefrom Bailey's for 3 bucks.

attachment.php


Gary
 
Now that is something I've not takin into consideration. Great point, I have always filed the racker flat on top but now I will take all chains and give them a little rear slope. Just like when they were new. Sometimes the little things are the difference between alright and outstanding... Thanks for the time to explain.....bob

Bob,

You might also get yourself something like a filing guide specific to your chain. For instance, Baileys sells something called a Carlton File-O-Plate for Carlton chain. (An item # is 65986.) Each one is sized to the pitch and type for a specific chain, i.e. there's one for a 3/8ths chisel, another for a .325 semi-chisel, etc.

These compensate for the wear on the chain and will keep your rakers at the right height throughout the chain's useful life. They're used to file the rakers and the cutters.
 
KofT... Do you have a filing gauge for your rakers??? They should be filed to .025 at least. The raker filing gauges are cheap and will keep your rakers all the same depth.

This one is availablefrom Bailey's for 3 bucks.

attachment.php


Gary
My favorite (and only) sharpening guide! And yep, tension does make a huge difference! Thanks to whome-ever pointed out the rounding of the backs of the rakers, me do that now :biggrinbounce2:

:)
 
intesting enough, carlton has patented the tool and method that allows the tool to measure the raker as a function of wear.

i'm not sure i'm convinced that their variable depths aren't a marketing ploy.

Isn't .025 clearance alwasy .025 clearance?????
 

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