cutting stumps

[nilzlofgren]

I started a new clearing job this weekend. Someone had come in before me and took all the trees for firewood. They left the stumps cut about 2 feet or so above the ground. To save room in the dumpster, I cut the stumps as close to the ground as I can. The problem is that, unlike a tree, the stump doesn't fall over. Its full weight is still on the bar, and some times the stump rides down the bar after the cut. I'm wondering if this is stressful on my saw, and is there I different method I could use?

 

[tawilson]

I like to do a plunge cut on stumps and cut from the inside out. I kind of rotate around it so it leaves holding wood on each side most of the way.

 

[belgian]

I would use a set of wedges to remove the stress from the bar.

 

[SawTroll]

I like to do a plunge cut on stumps and cut from the inside out. I kind of rotate around it so it leaves holding wood on each side most of the way.

I would use a set of wedges to remove the stress from the bar.

Both are good ideas, imo.....

 

[WRW]

If the stumps are riding down the bar, I doubt that they are causing any stress. If the chain is stopping, I use wedges. The plunge cut is an idea too, if the stump has any size.

 

[Dadatwins]

I am assuming we are talking about stumps that are smaller than the length of your bar. If the stumps are riding down the bar after cutting, you run the risk of popping your chain off, and possibly ruining the chain. The chain damage would come from the drive links getting burred when the chain flings off. Could become a major problem if it happens enough. If this is the case wedges or a shorter bar would help. be careful.

 

[Timberhauler]

I most always plunge cut...Works on the biggest of stumps....I rarely ever use wedges for anything other than falling snags

 

[Husky137]

Wedges.

Plunge cut is fine on smaller stuff you can move, but wedges will keep from pinching the bar and make it easier to move the cut piece off the stump after cutting it free.

 

[tek9tim]

Wedges.

Plunge cut is fine on smaller stuff you can move, but wedges will keep from pinching the bar and make it easier to move the cut piece off the stump after cutting it free.

Yeah, I learned that one yesterday. Flush cut a 36" grand fir stump, and couldn't shove it off the base (maybe because I weigh a buck forty three) threw a wedge in, and it gave me some room to rock it and get it off the base. Never run into that before. I'm usually not on that flat of ground either, though.

 

[B_Turner]

Cut in the opposite direction and the saw will pack shavings in the kerf and you don'teven need wedges. Works well when using a shorter bar than the diameter.

 

[ray benson]

I use the plastic wedges. Already have them with me so it is a simple solution.

 

[Ray Bennett]

Im gona go against the majority here and advise not to use wedges for stump cutting in most cases. This is why, If you are placing wedges in the stump where you started your cut all you are doing is lifting the back of your stump up and therefore putting more weight on your bar and chain when it comes out the other side. I simply let the stump sit down on its self as I cut thru, It never seems to pinch for some reason, I dont even have paint transfer off my bar. I usually am cutting stumps 20 to 40 inches so I guess the angles work out where it can not pinch the bar.

If I were to use a wedge I would put one on each side of the stump after Im over 2/3rd's thru making sure that the wedges are closer to the exit cut than the entrance side of the stump. This would keep even more weight off your bar and chain. I however have found this is not necessary and have never had a chain come off from my method. I suppose it cant hurt tho.

 

[SawTroll]

....If I were to use a wedge I would put one on each side of the stump after Im over 2/3rd's thru making sure that the wedges are closer to the exit cut than the entrance side of the stump. .....

Just a thought, it may work even better to cut into the stump from both sides, putting wedges in, before cutting the mid section.

Cutting from one side, and wedging as nesessary have worked for me so far, but I don't do a lot of stumping, and the ones I cut aren't too large.

I use the plastic wedges. Already have them with me so it is a simple solution.

That is true - the KISS rule again...

 

[Ray Bennett]

Just a thought, it may work even better to cut into the stump from both sides, putting wedges in, before cutting the mid section.

I do like that method, I had not thougt that, I may give it a try.

 

[NEK VT]

Show

Cut in the opposite direction and the saw will pack shavings in the kerf and you don'teven need wedges. Works well when using a shorter bar than the diameter.

SHOW A DRAWING OR PICS OF WHAT YOU MEAN..... THIS SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA

 

[Oddvaark]

If the stumps are going to be used for firewood you could cut a ways in before pinch occurs and split what you have cut , (removing the saw of course)

 

[timistall]

Just have your wife push it over as you cut:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[SawTroll]

Just have your wife push it over as you cut:hmm3grin2orange:

Not my wife, doesn't sound too safe........

 

[timistall]

Yeah But...if I had killed her 20yrs. ago TODAY I'd been a free man

 

[SawTroll]

Hmmmmm, doesn't sound too good - she must be annoying....... :bang: