cutting to the right

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dip wear

Flip the bar over more often, you should have a dip in both sides of the bar if you flip it once a day. More often than not the bars I see with the dip have never been turned over during their life of running with the chain lacking oil and on the chain too loose. If you clean your saw every day flip the bar when you clean it.
 
Glans-
Have you ever actually owned a chainsaw (that runs) or do you just enjoy posting what you read off of manufacturer's websites? Your last post reads like you have never seen bar wear.

Information is usually best shared by people who have some working knowledge of what they are talking about. I knew it was a mistake taking you off ignore.
 
Usually it is loose chain that causes the described wear just back of the tip. Over tight is more likely the just cause the tip itself to spread and go bad.

Uneven sharpness will transfer an uneven wear pattern to the inside sides of the bar rail and cannot be corrected by squaring the top of the rails. Uneven sharpness from side to side will also cause the chain chassis to wear uneven, which you cannot fix.

P.S. You can pretty well depend on 165s and Fish's responses being based on actual experience. You get to be able to tell whats based on experience and what is based read and repeated BS.
 
Brian,

Yes I am an owner and user chainsaws.&nbsp; Although not my primary living, I do earn a fair amount of money with them; in addition to using wood as my primary source of heat for about 5 months of every year.&nbsp; Do <i>you</i> even really own a chainsaw?&nbsp; Would I believe you if you answered that question?&nbsp; You sure spend a lot of time posting here...

The reason I gave the referenced quote was to give credence to my statement beyond simply making one.&nbsp; I really hate it when people give authoritative-sounding statements accompanied by ignorant physics claims.

This was yet another of your antagonistic posts.&nbsp; While I typically enjoy seeing what it is you have to say next, I think it would be best if you'd do us both a favor and put me back on your ignore list.&nbsp; I'm really looking forward to meeting you.

Glen
 
I do flip the bar usually after a day of cutting, which may account for 3-4 hours of saw use, and the wear is on both sides accordingly. Ill try to get a picture this weekend if I can, but my macro isnt the best.

Let me know when you guys meet, it may be somewhat entertaining.
 
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I say Glens information that the dip in the bar is caused by running the chain too loose is correct, and Brians discription of the chain going around the radius and wanting to continue the radius is also correct.

I made the following point one time before, but here it is again: experience doesn't mean diddly squat! I was criticized quite severly for even suggesting this, but I'm going to make the same point again.

Brian thinks because he has run a saw for many years, that he knows everything there is to know. Glens thinks because he looks up the information from reliable sources, he knows it all.
They bump heads because each thinks he is correct, glens because he read it, and Brian because he done it a million times.

I think it takes both, book learnin' AND experience.
 
Thanks for filling in for Gypo, Mike.

I have looked a lot of things up just for the sake of doing it, I'm not denying that.&nbsp; In this case I'd looked it up to see why I was seeing what I was seeing in practice.&nbsp; I've gone through a fair number of chains, sprockets, bars, and even saws.

I cringed when I saw that Brian had posted between the time I'd fetched the thread and originally replied myself.&nbsp; It's ironic that we'd unknowingly agreed that it was a result of the chain impacting the bar.&nbsp; The difference was in that I'd said it was because the chain was too loose (implying that it was continuing off on a tangent) and being too violently snatched back to the bar.&nbsp; If there's enough tension in the loop, it doesn't attain that free flight around the tip.

I suppose there could be a situation where the nose sprocket has enough of a mismatch in pitch or tooth/driver fit tht it might tend to "hang on to" the chain, resulting in a violent extraction, but in such a case there should obviously be something amiss when running the loop by hand.&nbsp; Also, I'd think the wear would be in the bar rail right at the interface with the sprocket (pretty much in line with the sprocket axle) as opposed to say a chain-pitch distance back toward the saw that the loose chain would produce.

Brian's claim that a too-tight chain will induce wear on the bar rails might also be valid regarding wear right at the tangential point where the bar meets the varying sprocket pitch diameter.

I guess it comes down to exactly where the damage is being done as to what the cause is.

After leaving the drive sprocket the chain will also hit the bar too hard if it's too loose, for different reasons than at the tip, but it's still not the direct result of some flexible thing which had been travelling captive in a circular motion and desiring to stay in that mode.

Glen
 
Something traveling in a radius does not want to continue to travel in a radius. Imagine spinning a weight on a string over your head. The force you apply to the string keeps the weight traveling in a circle. That force creates an acceleration called either centrifugal or centripital depending on your frame of reference. The force is equal to the mass of the object multiplied by it's acceleration. If you stop applying the force to the string, in other words you let go, the weight will fly off in a straight line tangent to the point you let go (except if any other forces are acting on it like gravity or wind resistance). I suppose it is possible that by friction the sproket nose may try to drive the chain around in a circle, or the friction on the chain pins may require force to straighten the chain, but the chain itself wants to go in a straight line.
 
Anything rotating wants to continue rotating?

Where did you go to school?

Georgia?

I failed physics myself, so I am an authority.
 
Hi Fish.&nbsp; I think he's thinking "a body set to motion wants to stay in motion".&nbsp; Under ideal conditions that's true, but we all know that eventually one must roll over and get some sleep.

Hi Dan.&nbsp; Each link is rotated not 180&deg;, but 180&deg; divided by the number of sprocket teeth involved.&nbsp; Eleven teeth?&nbsp; Sixteen point four degrees (average) bend at each rivet is all that's required for the saw chain to make the turn 'round the sprocket.

Glen
 
Even under ideal conditions that would not be the case!

The point of the mythical "centrifical force" is that the object
does not want to continue rotating.

Lets keep it light though, let's only butcher Newtonian physics.
 
Come on Beavergirl! Snap out of one of your alter-identities and
give us a physics lesson, but include some more pics of you
with that sporty 041! Keep the pics coming!
 

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