Cycle time matters not a jot when you have one of these.

[KiwiBro]

Or how about the 2.5m (about 8'?) Goliath 40t model:

http://www.binderberger.com/web/holzspalter/holzspalterliegend20-40t/langholzspalter-goliath


Nothing about the Binderberger gear looks cheap but it sure looks good.

How about building a log/bucking deck, and rolling rings into the Goliath? Or perhaps modifying the cradle somehow to take a whole 8' log and bucking the log in-situ before it gets split?

Would need a mighty good sized hopper on any outfeed conveyor though. Sure would be a nice problem to have.

Anyone know what either the Binderberger giant 40t or Goliath 40t are worth please? I see a used Goliath for about 15k euro.

 

[KiwiBro]

I think Google is telling porkies. I just went to search forums for more info on the Goliath model.

 

[Hddnis]

Stacking rounds is asking to get hurt, otherwise a cool splitter.



Mr. HE

 

[KiwiBro]

Stacking rounds is asking to get hurt, otherwise a cool splitter.



Mr. HE

Only if they come from arborists

 

[tla100]

Stacking rounds is asking to get hurt, otherwise a cool splitter.



Mr. HE

Please explain?

Oh, one of the best splitters I have seen in a long time. Needs a conveyor.

 

[KiwiBro]

Please explain?

Oh, one of the best splitters I have seen in a long time. Needs a conveyor.

If the bucking isn't perpendicular, but on crazy angles, the rounds could 'fire at will' once under pressure, thus turning into projectiles a bit like a wooden cluster bomb.

Similar risk for small diameter wood where the diameter starts approaching or gets below, the length of the rounds - it makes 'em more 'tippy'.

That said, the intended purpose of such splitters is not small wood.

Another option I quite like is the Kretzer 1200/30. I suspect it would be a heap cheaper but still comes with log lift, up to 8-way wedge, 1200mm log length, and it has a pretty neat way to centralise the wood before splitting.


I agree, these need an outfeed conveyor. One with a mighty big hopper.

 

[Hddnis]

Kiwi explained it well.

If the cut faces of a round are parallel it works fine. But a couple of degrees or more off and the rounds can launch sideways with great force. Think broken arms, fractured skulls, that kind of stuff.
~20 tons is a lot of force to release quickly.

If you stack rounds to split stand well clear and shoot video.


Mr. HE

 

[KiwiBro]

Which is best:
Splitting 3 feet long rounds and cutting each split to firewood length, or splitting firewood length rounds and not requiring any further handling?

Can anyone understand why the former seems to be prevalent in many European nations and the latter elsewhere? Even accounting for straight grained, possibly predominantly smaller diameter (on average) Euro trees, why handle the wood more times than needed, with more equipment than needed?

 

[tla100]

Gotcha, thanks for the explanation. I wish all my rounds were a nice uniform size.

I would rather cut, then split. Lot less pieces to handle.

 

[cantoo]

Handling and storage I assume. We split big stuff to dry faster, they split smaller stuff that doesn't take as long to dry so they cut it 1 meter long to store it. I assume it also has something to do with measuring it? They have many different types of burners everything form 1 meter long ones to ones that take pretty much ground up chips of wood.
How many OWB owners still cut their wood at 16" even though their owb's can take 36" or better wood? Mine can fit a 52" long piece but I can't lift anything that big so I cut a few different lengths. Branches and small stuff gets cut 48" long. Bigger (heavy) gets cut 24" which is the longest my splitter can split.

 

[Hddnis]

Which is best:
Splitting 3 feet long rounds and cutting each split to firewood length, or splitting firewood length rounds and not requiring any further handling?

Can anyone understand why the former seems to be prevalent in many European nations and the latter elsewhere? Even accounting for straight grained, possibly predominantly smaller diameter (on average) Euro trees, why handle the wood more times than needed, with more equipment than needed?

Only reason I can think of for cutting it to a meter is reducing handling in the brush where it's first cut. A lot of that wood is forest thinnings, so they are cutting it by hand, leaving the tops to rot, and hauling out the trunks behind an ATV or compact tractor. By cutting it longer they reduce cuts and handling out in the woods, and then make the extra cuts needed in a staging area, often after the wood has seasond so it is much lighter to handle.


Mr. HE

 

[KiwiBro]

Only reason I can think of for cutting it to a meter is reducing handling in the brush where it's first cut. A lot of that wood is forest thinnings, so they are cutting it by hand, leaving the tops to rot, and hauling out the trunks behind an ATV or compact tractor. By cutting it longer they reduce cuts and handling out in the woods, and then make the extra cuts needed in a staging area, often after the wood has seasond so it is much lighter to handle.


Mr. HE

If longer = less handling, then why not tree length? I'm not sure not having the gear to load tree length or long logs is the issue as most of the videos I see they have a tractor or something else powering their splitters and loading out the bundles of billets.

Handling and storage I assume.

Certainly neater and less room needed to store bundles of billets. But I would think more handling involved because they handle it when bucked and split, then again when bundled, than again when cut to firewood length. As opposed to cut to firewood length and split and piled/wind-rowed. It just strikes me as adding more stages and handling than removing them.

Further, if split to firewood length it can still be straight into bags or crates and those stacked, if storage space is an issue.

 

[dancan]

Y'all can play with splitters if you want but I'm gonna drive up to the log pile with one of these .

 

[KiwiBro]

Y'all can play with splitters if you want but I'm gonna drive up to the log pile with one of these .

 

[mr.finn]

That thing is sick!! Wonder what the price tag is on it?

 

[Rudolf73]

In Germany at least standard firewood length is 1m (40") for a few reasons. The main reason as I understand it - the end user has the choice of cutting the 1m length into either, 2x500mm, 3x330mm, 4x250mm to suit their specific wood stove. Or even use them full length for outdoor boilers etc. Also as already mentioned, it makes it easier to handle.

 

[farmer steve]

Or how about the 2.5m (about 8'?) Goliath 40t model:

http://www.binderberger.com/web/holzspalter/holzspalterliegend20-40t/langholzspalter-goliath


Nothing about the Binderberger gear looks cheap but it sure looks good.

How about building a log/bucking deck, and rolling rings into the Goliath? Or perhaps modifying the cradle somehow to take a whole 8' log and bucking the log in-situ before it gets split?

Would need a mighty good sized hopper on any outfeed conveyor though. Sure would be a nice problem to have.

Anyone know what either the Binderberger giant 40t or Goliath 40t are worth please? I see a used Goliath for about 15k euro.

http://www.cord-master.com/products/firewood-processors/monster-splitter/

 

[Joesell]

http://www.cord-master.com/products/firewood-processors/monster-splitter/

Timber wolf has one like that too. In fact, I saw a used one around here not to long ago that was pretty cheap in my opinion. I think they wanted $15,000 or so.

 

[1project2many]

Can anyone understand why the former seems to be prevalent in many European nations and the latter elsewhere?

Still mulling it over, eh?
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...llets-or-firewood-length-rings-rounds.256139/
I spent some time last spring with my maul trying to bust up 42" long, 12" dia poplar but much of that was effort wasted. The maul was the wrong tool for that job. But it was easier to load the pieces once halved. I left out to them sit for a few days to dry some then I loaded everything into the truck to move it to the house. I had to heft the 42" logs to the sawhorse to cut them so of course the halved pieces were easier there, too. And it was nice to have a break of sorts in the middle of the c/s/s routine when I got to the Poplar. Cut/stack went faster. But I'm thinking it was only because of the change in pace. This year I have a splitting axe so I'll try again.

As far as that splitter, there's a helluva lot of force applied to that wedge. If you catch a knot or crotch wrong you'll apply a bunch of torque to it as well. I can see the need for those massive braces at the top. I'd imagine even they don't make it foolproof.

I think we've all noticed that these splitter videos show wood selected and cut to produce the best results. The companies producing splitters for resale want to show volume, volume. I like that most of the homemade splitter videos I've watched tend to show the splitter powering through the toughest piece of wood on the planet. Is it just that the guys who build their own splitter, for the most part, are trying to save themselves from doing excessively hard work and that's what the splitter is for? Or is it just the tendency here in America?

 

[svk]

I think we've all noticed that these splitter videos show wood selected and cut to produce the best results. The companies producing splitters for resale want to show volume, volume. I like that most of the homemade splitter videos I've watched tend to show the splitter powering through the toughest piece of wood on the planet. Is it just that the guys who build their own splitter, for the most part, are trying to save themselves from doing excessively hard work and that's what the splitter is for? Or is it just the tendency here in America?

Very good point, I have never seen a commercial splitter busting elm or any tough crotch pieces.