Cylinder transfer clean-up final go.

[holeycow]

You're welcome. I hate to see a guy go through all the trouble and then be thwarted by something simple.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Supercross coming next weekend? to Melbourne..

It's not real motocross, but it will do in a pinch.

Awesome they’ll still scream and get the blood pumping

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

@holeycow had a good look at the bearing under magnification and couldn’t see anything untoward, just some dust flakes mixed with oil! Thanks for the great tip.

 

[holeycow]

Cool picture! Wash that in straight gas and look at it again. You don't want dust on there. Some dust is HARD.

I just noticed your pin in the background. There might be some wear on it. You have a new one of those though..yes?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Cool picture! Wash that in straight gas and look at it again. You don't want dust on there. Some dust is HARD.

I just noticed your pin in the background. There might be some wear on it. You have a new one of those though..yes?

Yes we’ll said, i’ll Be washing everything again before it gets out together as it’s jusy sitting in bits in a suit case


Well spotted Yes I have a pin coming with my metor piston / caber rings

 

[holeycow]

I honestly don't know why people don't replace those bearings as a matter-of-course. It's a critical piece of the motor.

Yours does look good tho, but can't tell with dust and oil on it..

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I honestly don't know why people don't replace those bearings as a matter-of-course. It's a critical piece of the motor.

Yours does look good tho, but can't tell with dust and oil on it..

It’s the easiest thing to replace if the jugs off right, ha. I’ll degrease it and re photo it seems a shame to bin a good looking working bearing, but of course I can see exactly why you suggest it! I actually think the lower end (although is still tight) has more wear on it. Back in a sec

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I honestly don't know why people don't replace those bearings as a matter-of-course. It's a critical piece of the motor.

Yours does look good tho, but can't tell with dust and oil on it..

This bearing looks new compared to the low end bearing which looks a little worn and I don’t know how to change them, heard that it’s a challenge?I guess that one will go before this

 

[holeycow]

Usually the wrist-pin bearing shows wear long before the big end.

That saw was never previously rebuilt, right?

You're looking at stuff with your good magnifier now right? Like the big end wherever you can see it..

Cracks mysteriously show up in good light under strong magnification. Or maybe it's just MY eyes..

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Usually the wrist-pin bearing shows wear long before the big end.

That saw was never previously rebuilt, right?

Honestly, I don’t know, neither does my dad, if I asked him, he would say “I don’t remember, I hardly ever used it!”

It’s a really interesting point though...

Maybe it was?! But the wrist pin looks pretty worn right? The saw could have thousands spent replacing all the parts as it is 20 years old or so, but I do have to be realistic, i’ll Probably use it once a year for a few hours. Maybe not even that. It will most likely be on the wall, but I do want to know it will work

With your experience of what a wrist pin worn and new bearing looks, where would you say this is? I’ll call dad now, he’s in the Uk so the time zone is perfect for him haha

 

[holeycow]

You can feel wear far better than see it. Wear on wristpins can be felt. That wrist pin does not APPEAR very worn in a pic

The needles in that bearing are worn too, but not pitted. And the cage does not appear to have any cracks in it.

In order for that saw to have piston smear (it did??), it was lean. Meaning lack of lube and over heating.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

You can feel wear far better than see it. Wear on wristpins can be felt. That wrist pin does not APPEAR very worn in a pic

The needles in that bearing are worn too, but not pitted. And the cage does not appear to have any cracks in it.

In order for that saw to have piston smear (it did??), it was lean. Meaning lack of lube and over heating.

Ok, just spoke to him, it hasn’t had any work done to it, just a chain sharpen and service when it wouldn’t start (carb clean and diaphragms replaced)

Yes there was piston scoring and transfer. Low end bearing from what I can see has lost some of the brass colouring is is slightly silver ? No play or movement in either end. Do you know of a post on how to change the low end bearings? I guess few do it..

 

[82F100SWB]

Looks to me like there is quite a bit of wear on that bearing, new the center of those rollers would have been just as shiny as the ends, the wear matches the wrist pin. I can't remember if you are salvaging the piston on this one or not. If not, your new piston kit will come with a new pin and I would put a new bearing in there.
Whats there would probably run for quite some time with no issues at all, but for the cost of a pin bearing, if you are putting in a new wrist pin you might as well put in a new bearing.
For the big end, since it is not exactly easily replaceable, I wouldn't get too worried about it as long as it turns nice and smooth.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Looks to me like there is quite a bit of wear on that bearing, new the center of those rollers would have been just as shiny as the ends, the wear matches the wrist pin. I can't remember if you are salvaging the piston on this one or not. If not, your new piston kit will come with a new pin and I would put a new bearing in there.
Whats there would probably run for quite some time with no issues at all, but for the cost of a pin bearing, if you are putting in a new wrist pin you might as well put in a new bearing.
For the big end, since it is not exactly easily replaceable, I wouldn't get too worried about it as long as it turns nice and smooth.

Okk i’ll take both of your guys advice, just emailed my dealer to put a request in for the bearing

 

[holeycow]

Look at the cage at the end of the needles very carefully with your magnifier on that big end bearing. Move the rod back and forth and stuff to see as much as you can.

The failure occurs at the corners of the cage at the end of the needles. If there are any cracks, it's a time bomb. Sooner rather than later.

In the end, these things are surprisingly, sometimes shockingly, tough.

And sometimes they just blow themselves all to ****

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Look at the cage at the end of the needles very carefully with your magnifier on that big end bearing. Move the rod back and forth and stuff to see as much as you can.

The failure occurs at the corners of the cage at the end of the needles. If there are any cracks, it's a time bomb. Sooner rather than later.

In the end, these things are surprisingly, sometimes shockingly, tough.

And sometimes they just blow themselves all to ****

Okk will check now thanks mate!

 

[holeycow]

You've got other critics on board now. Good. You're sure to goof it up! We'll see to that. Ha!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

You've got other critics on board now. Good. You're sure to goof it up! We'll see to that. Ha!

I can’t wait to work on it mid next week when the parts arrive in store! This hobby has taken over my Carving time

 

[holeycow]

You will need to tune that saw. Try "Steve's Small Engine Saloon" for a tutorial. He is a good teacher. So is Buckin Billy.

Steve get's to the point.

Buckin Billy, not so much. He's better for sharpening info.

PS, that saw burned up for some reason? Could have been tuning, could have been a leak.