cypress trees

[stehansen]

I have been asked to bid on topoping 17 cypress trees, the kind that go straight up in the air like a missile. They are in a back yard with no truck access and they are approzimately 50' tall and the owner wants the height reduced to 25'. How would you go about it?

 

[MasterBlaster]

So, they wanna kill their trees?

 

[iain]

i would' nt do it well not all at once
any more than 30% of the leave off, at any one time runs a high risk of killing the tree

i personally would advise them to stage the reduction over a min of two seasons

 

[Treeman14]

So, they wanna kill their trees?

Why the negativity? They won't die.

 

[treeseer]

they are approzimately 50' tall and the owner wants the height reduced to 25'. How would you go about it?

Tall folding ladder and a pole pruner. If the wood is too thick for a pole pruner, then lean a tall ladder into the tree and use a handsaw and loppers etc. Are these Italian cypress? I Reduce, not top, Leyland cypresses all the time. Pole pruners and loppers are perfect for this because they can make a clean angled cut just above a good lateral.

Which is the difference between topping and reducing.

You'll need to post pictures if you want intelligent advice on this one.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Why the negativity? They won't die.

Cut them in half? If they don't, they should. :Eye:

 

[Lumberjack]

I am with Butch.

Reducing any tree by half using heading or lateral cuts wont really matter as much as half the tree laying on the ground IMO.

A better question is what is the customer trying to accomplish? Safety?

But, I know many ceders that have been damaged in storms years ago, but I wouldnt do it without a clearer objective and it being the only way.

 

[Ekka]

Why the negativity? They won't die.

I can't believe I'm reading this!

Your signature says certified arborist, you might as well throw those papers in the bin and your profile says you've been in the tree "care" business 16 years ... more like one year 16 times over!

So much for professional tree care and ethics.

 

[vharrison2]

Teeman, arborist standards only allow for 25-30% reduction. You know that. Any more than that will compromise the integrity of the tree. It could die.

 

[timberbeast]

So, they wanna kill their trees?

I'm with MB. You do not top your trees!!!

If you want to reduce by half, prune them at the stump!

 

[Lumberjack]

Perhaps Treeman was trolling/ being sarcastic in humor.

If not, sounds like a cert. hack.

 

[vharrison2]

Perhaps Treeman was trolling/ being sarcastic in humor.

I had not thought of that.........

 

[Stumper]

Down boys and girls. While I would advise the owner not to reduce them in this way those of you without experiece with Italian Cypress need to back down a little. Reducing a 50ft I. Cypress to 25 feet will seldom remove more than 30% of the foliage. Reduction cuts are possible as Guy has mentioned. A good, beneficial operation? No but if the only options the owner will consider are reduction or removal then reduction can preserve the trees, be done without total mutilation and the reduced tree can live a long life.

 

[R Schra]

Teeman, arborist standards only allow for 25-30% reduction. You know that. Any more than that will compromise the integrity of the tree. It could die.

freakin figures

do a 30% trim on an old tree in decline, thats smart to do. it comes to the knowledge of a arborist to decide whats best for a tree in its circumstances. just quoting 'standard'figures doesnt help that much.


Some trees do need good care and won't get it. Lots of trees dont need care but get it.

 

[vharrison2]

I stand by my post.

Start with the "standards" and evaluate the circumstances of the tree from there. That goes without saying.

 

[Koa Man]

From my experience, Italian cypress will not die with a 50% reduction, and it can be done in a way that will still make it look good. They have many side branches to cut back to, but the main trunk will still need to be cut. I once did a 75% reduction on a single Italian cypress and it is growing as strong as ever. It was 40 ft. tall, cut to 10 ft. It belongs to the son of a long time customer of mine. I tried to talk him into just taking out the tree, but he wanted to keep it for privacy reasons.

As far as how to go about it, (original question) I would use my 28 or 32ft. extension ladder to get as high as I can. From there, cut off the smaller side branches to clear some space. Find the side branches that you can safely cut from the height you are currently at. Cut the branch with a flat top so you can use it as a step. Move up and repeat. If this is a free drop, just clear about a 2 foot area around the main trunk few feet higher than your final height. Drop the top and then shape to final height, endeavoring to taper the top.

 

[R Schra]

I stand by my post.

Start with the "standards" and evaluate the circumstances of the tree from there. That goes without saying.

mmm, i think the knowledge of standards is a thing one must have. For me those standards are not a start to evaluate a tree. Its the tree itself thats shows what needs or dont need to be done. Then i take the custumors wishes in the picture. At last i use standards in comparisation to the circumstances to quote the work that needs or doesnt need to be done. I experience that working from the trees needs its clearer to the custumor what is meant. When bringing up the standards first they assume that those standards are just the thing they can let do. From there its a hard deal to work back from those standards to the trees needed work. Especially when youre quoting is not how they 'like' it to be done. So when i made my point whats best for the tree i can make clear that all addition work beyond that adviced will damage the tree in the long or shorter time. That will be quoted precisely in our offer to that client.

example,

today i got a call from a person who wanted to know if a big horse cheastnut root system could comprimize his planned building and patio planned at 5 meters from the tree. As for lifting the pavement and fundation. I asked if he would maintain the tree for the future what was positive. So i explaned him that it was better to look in what way the building and patio would comprimize the trees root system and changes to survive at long term. This week i will make a report/advice for him what way the tree can be protected from construction up and below ground. Also working out a way to construct the patio less destructive to the root system. The owner is now convinced to get a clausule in the builders contract that damage (beyond neccesary as written in my advice)to the tree will be fined within regulations as we have here.

Some custumors listen, some dont. Thats a sport for me

As for my first answer, i might been a bit sarcastic.

Regards Ronald

 

[Treeman14]

Perhaps Treeman was trolling/ being sarcastic in humor.

If not, sounds like a cert. hack.

Yup, I'm a hack.

Weren't members being banned for this kind of crap a few months ago?

I didn't say it was good nor that I would recommend it. I simply said, in response to MB's post, that the trees would not die.

And yes, I've read many books, magazines, journals, attended workshops, spoken many times with Dr. Gilman, Don Blair, even spent a week with Shigo. I am speaking from real world, personal experience. These trees will NOT die, period.

I agree that topping is usually not a good thing for most trees, but there are some that will tolerate it, especially here in Florida.

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

I top Leyland cypress all the time..it's no big deal ,and i agree i think even topped/reducded by 50% the cypress trees will survive without a problem..Topping cypress trees is no big deal to me ,now topping large broadleafs is a differant story

 

[RedlineIt]

Hi stehansen,

Let's see 17 cypress coming down to 25 feet, all in one backyard.

Sound to me like we are making a hedge. Excellent, cypress make beautiful hedges, we have 30' cypress hedges coming out the bazoo here. Hack on them and they just get bushier, perfect hedge material.

When you top them out, in big pieces or small depending on your drop zone size, cut the "ears" out of your holding wood, otherwise they will strip the bark down.

Then tell the homeowner to feed them some high nitrogen fertilizer or do it yourself and charge him for it.

Make sure the owner understands he will need to water the hedge well, a run of soaker hose on a timer makes it a piece of piss.

Make sure the owner realizes he will need you back in a few months to shear the sides up nice and tight and that then he'll need you to come back and repeat on an annual basis. $$$ for you!

He's going to have one awesome hedge.


If we are not making a hedge, none of my advice applies.



RedlineIt