Lumberjack
Banned
Wow, such great advice on this thread.
cypress trees
- Thread starter stehansen
- Start date
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Koa Man
Kahuna giganticus
Anyone familiar with the browning of the foliage of Italian cypress? Someone told me a few years ago that they gave their tree some kind of fertilizer or nutrient and it stopped the browning and the tree stated to turn green again. It was not nitrogen. I thought I could remember and never wrote it down. Of course, I forgot.
iain
ArboristSite Operative
brown is dead it. the dead parts don't regenerate,
however the tree may well shut off those areas and put new figor into new growth if the decline is caught quick enough (nutrient / water issues) a soil assesment should indicate the problem
however the tree may well shut off those areas and put new figor into new growth if the decline is caught quick enough (nutrient / water issues) a soil assesment should indicate the problem
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Sometimes it's just good old H2O that will cause an evergreen to green up. Drought stress caused needle (scale) loss and lotsa water on a regular cycle caused the buds to break open and grow..
We don't get much cypress of any sort up here, but we have Arborvitae out the yigdrazl. I've done sever reductions on many sps/cvs and they will keep on growing like RedLine writes.
I especially like his recomendation to cut the ears, or place curfs at the apex of the face cut, to prevent bark tear. It's been long enough that I'd forgotten about that.
Back to what Wolkie allways said, spouting the standards without experiance with the species is just kneejerk dogmatic rhetoric. Most of the objectors are speaking from their own ignorance ( I assume Gigi is quoting company policy, and is not ignorant
).
Sometimes you take the standards and evaluate the plant at hand, and agree to do what the customer wants.
Now I have a 32 ft ladder, I may say to the prospective client that it would be better for the hedge to only go to 30-35 ft. They would look better, it would go faster with less to chip, and hence cost less.
Then of course I would scedule RedLines "Shear for Shape" to be done next spring prior to budbreak.
Cyclical clientel should be the backbone of any buisness.
We don't get much cypress of any sort up here, but we have Arborvitae out the yigdrazl. I've done sever reductions on many sps/cvs and they will keep on growing like RedLine writes.
I especially like his recomendation to cut the ears, or place curfs at the apex of the face cut, to prevent bark tear. It's been long enough that I'd forgotten about that.
Back to what Wolkie allways said, spouting the standards without experiance with the species is just kneejerk dogmatic rhetoric. Most of the objectors are speaking from their own ignorance ( I assume Gigi is quoting company policy, and is not ignorant
).Sometimes you take the standards and evaluate the plant at hand, and agree to do what the customer wants.
Now I have a 32 ft ladder, I may say to the prospective client that it would be better for the hedge to only go to 30-35 ft. They would look better, it would go faster with less to chip, and hence cost less.
Then of course I would scedule RedLines "Shear for Shape" to be done next spring prior to budbreak.
Cyclical clientel should be the backbone of any buisness.
arboromega
ArboristSite Operative
dont do anything you dont want to put your name on
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
CooL!
why? That 30% guideline is just that--not etched in granite. Old beeches wouldnot like 10%, while many young trees are fine w/ >50%. I've worked on many mature oaks that lost >60% to storm damage but are coming back amazingly well.stehansen said:
Cypresses are fine with being hedges. You must be flush with work to pass that up.
