Deburing Drive links

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Following along on Guidos idea,how about color coding bars with chains.IE light coat of red paint on all 3/8s x 050 chains x 16",green for 20" etc?All those saws could be set up with 3/8s pitch chains.I have used a file and also a Dremel for deburrng,both work,both are time consuming.Someone mentioned using a grinding wheel,be careful,I was wire wheeling rust off a chain,and it got pulled through my fingers,nasty cuts on my hands.
 
Small world. Parents and sister lived in Lawrenceburg and I went to Eastern till that draft thing.

My wife teaches at Eastern... I bought a few tractors up your way when I lived in VA and used to go to Beiler's sale in New Holland and to the Studebaker Swap Meet at the fairgrounds in York at the end of February/beginning of March each year.
 
My wife teaches at Eastern... I bought a few tractors up your way when I lived in VA and used to go to Beiler's sale in New Holland and to the Studebaker Swap Meet at the fairgrounds in York at the end of February/beginning of March each year.
I helped set up when the Studebaker GTG was in Hershey.
Friend has a 55 President Speedster.
Sorta has to be a 55 doesn't it. Lol
 
I must be lost................so basically a non for profit organization, gives saws to people to use that don't understand how equipment works...............liability lies upon whom?

I apologize or my ignorance, different places and different ways of life, but interested to learn.

A PPT presentation negates over half your intended target audience. Audio, visual, hands on, and a combination of them all, basic principles of leaning. Whens the last time you paid attention to a PPT presentation?
 
I've done most of the 'right' and 'redneck' methods described by Philbert. Usually I'm in the field when this happens and use a flat file (just put a 12" mill bastard file in the saw box for this), a raker file, and/or a round chain file to get 'em cleaned up enough that they'll go in the bar and 'finish up' under power (with a loose fit for a few seconds before tensioning).

Once I had no file handy and instead 'filed'/ironed/beat the bunged up rakers to where they'd go on the bar and move (for the 'on the bar finishing) using a couple flat rocks and the blade end of my scrench. That SUCKED, but it worked.

I've also used a dremel too with a reinforced cutoff wheel to CAREFULLY dress the drivers. Works but is slow.
Same here. It's not as slow as cutting off the safety link.
Shep
 
Update and 'Bump':
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/

. . .so basically a non for profit organization, gives saws to people to use that don't understand how equipment works . .
(Long overdue response - sorry for the delay)

The groups I work with require volunteers to take a training class, including a 'hands-on' portion, even if they claim that their last name is 'Husqvarna'.

Some of these groups provide equipment that even experienced volunteers might not have, such as larger saws, powered pole saws, etc., and maintain equipment, parts, chains, etc., which often get used harder in these situations and conditions.

Philbert
 
There is only one way to deburr drivers. Slack off chain till sags 2- 3". With chain break on, start saw, put it on a level surface, release brake, goose saw.
This method works on all but the worst burred drivers.
Another trick is to put the offending chain in a larger gauge bar, such as a 1.3 chain in a 1.5 bar and make a few cuts to mill off the burrs.
 
Back
Top