Decisions, decisions...

[OldMontanaFart]

Been on AS for a few months now and learning how much I don't know...

Picked up a running 066Magnum and a running plastic Homelite 46cc with the blow-molded square case at a pawnshop in a 2fer deal for $225. 2 week money-back guarantee. 066 starts easily, revs OK, smokes some [dunno what the mix was] but idles very high. Figured it has problems or it wouldn't be at the pawnshop for that price-

Took the 066 to the local Stihl dealer for a look-see. They tell me the "cylinder is worn, piston not scored, may need new carb, has a vacuum leak, may be crank seals, carb boot or case gasket leak. May cost from $150-600+ incl labor to fix." New MS660=~$1400[!]

They will not use an aftermarket P&C-don't blame 'em, they have a rep to uphold.

My intended use for the 066M is regular firewood cutting [along with my 034's], 20-40 cords/year and to try milling of pine/fir/larch up to about 24" with a Granberg, if I like it I'll build a BIL mill.

From what I've learned thus far on AS, the Meteor P&C has some good points and weak points. Confident that Mastermind would have any deficiencies corrected before shipping his ported kits.

I've never split a case, have decent mechanical skills and many tools but not the specialized ones to pull flywheels/seals/split cases. Willing to make the crank puller/vacuum/pressure test tools others have posted on AS.

Have seen pro/con on another forum that 066 crank bearings are a PITA even with heat/cold installation, others say not difficult at all. Haven't seen much on AS regarding AM crank bearing quality, thinking old OEM bearings could be matched up by any decent industrial supply house with NSK or better for cheap but don't know.

Trying to decide if I should sink potentially $600+ in this thing with the local shop, return it to the pawnshop for the $190 back [they wanted $35 for the Homie and $210 for the 066 originally], send it to someone here on AS for a complete rebuild and a woods port, buy Mastermind's ported Meteor kit plus a complete Fleabay rebuild kit with P&C/crank/muffler/clutch/seals/carb boot/etc for $185 and resell the P&C there, or just take the el cheapo route and put in a carb kit, replace the seals and boot, replace the plug, mod the muffler and maybe replace the air filter and see how she runs.

I'm not going to be running it flat-out 6 days a week [unless I get bitten really hard by the milling bug-but then I'll probably not be content until I have an 090 or a 3120XP anyhow!]

I figure you people have already cost me a whole bunch of money with this CAD blight, so it's only fair you all try to make it up to me somehow-

Any words of wisdom, advice or scorn will be carefully weighed-thanks...

 

[OldMontanaFart]

68 views and no replies??

 

[mad murdock]

I say if you got skills and tools, sometimes you can "work around" the special tools thing, tho might have to fab your own tooling for a thing or 2 if you are handy that way. Do it yerself and save the $$ get on the beg for manuals sticky and get a copy of the service manual. If you plan on keepin it, what better way to get acquainted with your saw than tearing it down and dressing it up again. Plenty of adult supervision to be had from your bros here on AS.

 

[RBurtcher]

Are you the least bit mechanical? A decent stihl piston and cylinder, or even one with some wear or light battle scars is a better gamble then a new after market cylinder IMO. Unless the crank is wobbling around with scary movement I would say it will last the average firewood guy a long time. Throw in some new rings, fuel lines, seals a few other easily replaceable parts and keep an eye on things. I bet my 038 mag with new seals and rings outlasts me as long as I keep up with the fuel line and carb.

 

[cutforfun]

I say fix it even if you decide that it is more work than you can handle dont take it back to the hawk shop you should be able to sell it as-is and get your money back plus some. Do a vac/pressure test for yourself and fix the problem, put a new set of rings in the saw and go cut some wood
Go at it like a hobby and have fun

 

[excess650]

It sounds like you have purchased a complete, rebuildable 066 for a very reasonable price. I would be surprised to find a worn cylinder with an unscored piston. If it had wear in the cylinder, the plating would be gone, and it would be scored, so my BS meter is reading pretty high on that one. If the compression is down, more than likely a piston and rings will take care of that.

High idle could be simple carb adjustment, leak in impulse line/fuel line/carb boot, crank seals, base gasket, or crankcase center gasket. Too, the idle could have been intentionally set high to overcome problems caused by a weak set of clutch springs.

Smoking could be from the fuel that is in the saw, who knows what ratio and oil was used, or it might be sucking oil from the oil tank if the gasket is leaking. I would think this would also allow oil to leak OUT of the oil tank as well, so you may be able to track that down visually.

I'm thinking you need a piston/rings, crank seals, impulse line/fuel line/carb boot/fuel filter. Most of the saw can be dis/assemebled with a T27. A flywheel puller removes the flywheel, and the case splitter is something that you may need to fabricate, or have someone else split the cases should it be necessary.

Rebuilding this saw will enlighten you as to how everything is related and works, so when something out of the ordinary happens, you'll know what to look for and how to fix it. I run an 066 on an Alaskan mill. Mine had a Bailey's WPBB kit put in it back in '08 or so, and has worked fine. The added displacement hasn't hurt, and it feels stronger than my 660 with OEM cylinder and Meteor piston. I started with a 24" Alaskan, but was limited to 22" of cut, so bought the wider rails to upgrade to the the 36". I've cut up to 30" wide oak, walnut, elm, and Douglas fir slabs with the limit being the 36" bar on my saw.

My suggestion woud be to go ahead and do the work on that 066 yourself. Don't feel pressured to return it to the pawn shop because you'll not have any problem recouping your $ if you decide to sell it. There are a lot of rebuild threads here, and some folks willing to help you through the process.

Good score on the 066!

 

[OldMontanaFart]

Awright, you boys are making me salivate real bad here-getting an uncontrollable urge to go clean off the workbench [once I FIND it] and pull the cylinder off at least.

Now I know I gotta put fresh batteries in the camera and learn how to take pictures that aren't too washed out so everyone can see the innards of this thing as I slowly turn it into a basket case.

Thanks to all who have replied thus far, I needed those pushes in the DIY direction. I'd love to have one of the pros do the work and port it, but realistically I have no more USE for a saw that powerful than I do for a set of those truck testicles-besides, they'd look funky on an old Ranger...

I just KNEW I should've done my 034 BB project before it got cold in the basement shop. At least then I'd have a little frame of reference for this project and I'd make faster progress.

Like I don't have enough projects already, last week I bought an old running, complete Massey-Harris 44SG farm tractor for an even grand which is already begging for some love from me, too-justified it to the better half on grounds I can plow the driveways easily with it, so if I don't...I'll be eatin' kibble and sleepin' with ol' Shaq in a very small house for awhile.

First off, it needs a set of chains-new ones are $400-500 which is no longer in the toy budget after my 2 recent extravagances, so this afternoon I'm gonna be cobbling chains together from a set of semi chains and whatever I can dredge up from the rusty chain pile under the workbench I can't find...naturally it's all the way up to 14F right now and I didn't have sense enough to bring the chains in to the 45F shop from the truck last nite so it's gonna get a mite chilly on the fingers. May be typing here with my nose for awhile if THAT doesn't turn black and fall off, too.

 

[struggle]

compression test it first. pull the mufler off and take a picture and post it here first before you tear it down completely. It might just be an air leak needs to be fixed and a carb kit.

Address the high idle issue first then prceed with the help here on what direction is best.

 

[MotorSeven]

OMF, your not into it for a big chunk of change so I'd take it down and see what it needs. Then you will learn something in the process and the satisfaction factor goes way up when ever you run that pro saw:msp_thumbsup:

 

[excess650]

...and on the plus side, the parts inside the 066 are larger, so less need for magnifying glasses and tweezers for us old farts to rehab 'em.

 

[MotorSeven]

...and on the plus side, the parts inside the 066 are larger, so less need for magnifying glasses and tweezers for us old farts to rehab 'em.

Man ain't that the truth.......

How come I own more reading glasses then saws but never seem to find a pair when i need 'em???grrrrrrr

 

[excess650]

Man ain't that the truth.......

How come I own more reading glasses then saws but never seem to find a pair when i need 'em???grrrrrrr

'cause you "put 'em in a safe place".

 

[mt.stalker]

compression test it first. pull the mufler off and take a picture and post it here first before you tear it down completely. It might just be an air leak needs to be fixed and a carb kit.

Address the high idle issue first then prceed with the help here on what direction is best.

Damn good advice struggle !!! Oldmotanafart , get those piston pics , and get a good look-see @ as much of the cyl as possible . Keep us posted .