Technical Saw Chain Discussion

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The improvement of oil delivery on wider guage chains is arguably minimal at best.
Starting with a narrower guage has the advantage of being able to transition to a wider guage as the bar wears (although those not cutting professionally are unlikely to wear their bars all that much anyways).
I'd suggest you see what is most reasonably priced & available in your area (or wherever you intend to buy your bars & chains) & go from there.
 
The improvement of oil delivery on wider guage chains is arguably minimal at best.
Starting with a narrower guage has the advantage of being able to transition to a wider guage as the bar wears (although those not cutting professionally are unlikely to wear their bars all that much anyways).
I'd suggest you see what is most reasonably priced & available in your area (or wherever you intend to buy your bars & chains) & go from there.
Yeah... I'd love to see an.050 worn to the point an.063 fits and still be worth a ****...
 
In times past, when ‘things’ cost more than ‘time’ (labor), people would refurbish guide bars, having them regrooved, with a BarShop, etc.

The bars were also much heavier than. But it is stihl done with the expensive harvester bars.

Philbert
 
Skip or Granberg Style chains advantage is "Horsepower per cutter in the wood", so most advantage to smaller saws that NEED more HP. This can also help keep RPM UP and chip removal consistent. When you study vintage two-man saws, you find Scoring Cutters and Chip Removers and depth gages= what the Grandberg mimics. It is the same process you mimic with a hand chisel to mortise a hinge. The smaller chain on the smaller saws is for same reasons: HP per cutter in the wood= keep the speed up.

I was absolutely amazed at the high speed my tiny limb saw attachment (0.025 chain?) on weed-eater showed when using on a 40-ftx16" oak limb that came down during storm while suffering backache, and not wishing to use the big saw and do a lot of bending.
 

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