Degree Wheels

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Zombiechopper

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Where can I buy a degree wheel? Or can I print one off myself and stick it to cardboard or something like that.

Any links to 'how to' threads would be great. I know there is a very detailed one that I have read before but I can't find it with the search now.
 
You can get them from places that sell performance car parts or online. You can print one off of tavia.com I think. I use a drill chuck and about a 7" wheel. The bigger the wheel the more precise. I want to get a bigger one than I use.

The stickies have a thread about them.
 
Just a day or two ago a guy had a link to one that fit perfectly on a CD. Russ
 
Here's a couple pics of my setup. It's a 9'' comp cams I got off of ebay, 1/2'' drill chuck from harbor freight, made a spacer to keep it centered, and a ring gear bolt out of a dana 70 rear end.:msp_biggrin:
100_1856.jpg


100_1857.jpg



This thread http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/177311.htm has more pics of my set up.
 
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I bought mine from Lordco, auto parts store chain here in BC. If you have access to a lathe you can make it nice, and get the drill chuck perfectly centered and no need for spacers.
 
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In the past few days there have been a number of posts about port timing. I would guess the most popular method to measure port timing is with a degree wheel. I thought I would do a how to on setting up a degree wheel, as once this is done the rest is easy.



The earlier questions were posted in this thread, and this thread.



First, strip the saw to the point that allows access to the flywheel and the spark plug hole.

I then thread the Stihl flywheel puller into the flywheel.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450698248/" title="puller by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4450698248_4b95b6526e_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="puller" /></a>


Second, attach a pointer wire to a solid mount on the cases. you don't want this to easily move.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450699664/" title="wire by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2664/4450699664_57dc04ccc1_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="wire" /></a>


Third, attach the degree wheel to the puller(pic3). Look through the plug hole and put the piston at approximately Top Dead Center, position the wheel near 0°(pic4), then lightly snug the clamp bolt. I use a large degree wheel as it allows a higher level of precision than a small wheel. A 4.8" wheel made from a CD has about .04" between degrees. The 10.8" wheel shown allows .095" between marks. This same concept is why you will see auto racing engine builders use 36" wheels.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450701184/" title="wheel by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2772/4450701184_144d0146a5_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="wheel" /></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450701820/" title="near top by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4450701820_7842eac6b3_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="near top" /></a>


Fourth, rotate the crank slightly ATDC and insert a piston stop. The stop is necessary to find TDC. After the stop is in place rotate the crank back toward TDC until the piston rests against the stop.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4449929671/" title="stop by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4449929671_d1a05b5065_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="stop" /></a>


Fifth, Read the figure on the degree wheel and make a note of it, some math skills will be required. You will notice that I have sharpened the pointer so that a more precise measurment may be made.

54° here.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450703316/" title="stop2 by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4450703316_405e5d2f45_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="stop2" /></a>


Sixth, rotate the crank around until the piston rests against the stop at BTDC. make a note of this reading.


52° here.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450704000/" title="stop3 by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4450704000_7f8da0f6f6_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="stop3" /></a>

Seventh, here is where the math skills are needed. Add the two recorded figures together, then divide by two. The result is the point at which this particular piston stop holds the engine before or after TDC.

(54+52)/2=53°

You can see that it was close to begin with. If the original locations had been 66° and 40° the result would be the same.

(66+40)/2=53°



Eighth, while holding the flywheel still with the piston against the stop, rotate the lightly snugged degree wheel until the pointer is on the number that you obtained. Tighten the clamp bolt.

Rotate the crank on around until the piston is against the stop. It should read the same BTDC as it did at ATDC. If it does then the wheel is indexed correctly. If not, then repeat the procedure.


Now when you place the wheel on zero the piston will be at TDC and port timing measurements can be made.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450704714/" title="TDC by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2781/4450704714_04462a18b4_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="TDC" /></a>


I hope this helps.




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It prolly is. I've got it pretty close right now, but machining the chuck would be more accurate. Still not realizing all the wonderfull things I can do with the lathe.:msp_biggrin:

Yep! After I got the wheel mounted on the chuck, I chucked a precision ground shaft in the lathe and mounted the wheel to that and machined the outside of the wheel to make sure it was perfectly round.
 
Man this is the good stuff!!! If I was rich I would be pestering all you guys and hanging out in your sheds, soaking the knowledge up! Of course I would buy the beer and fire up the BBQ... Keep it coming! Russ
I am hoping the next time Cantdog ports a motor that I will have the privilege of being a fly on the wall.
 

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