Degreeing Transfer Ports?

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1953greg

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maybe i am missing something but can someone explain how to degree the transfer ports, since they cannot be seen (maybe a little through the exhaust), when the piston is in the cylinder. :confused: :confused: :confused:

or is simply raising the top of the transfers by the thickness of the base gasket, after removing gasket, adequate? thats what i have been doing.

also, i use a die grinder w/ cone shaped carbide tip that is rounded on the end, which is difficult to controll at best, on the transfers (works easy enough on intake & exhaust). is there anything better/easier?

any info or pointers greatly appreciated.
 
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maybe i am missing something but can someone explain how to degree the transfer ports, since they cannot be seen (maybe a little through the exhaust), when the piston is in the cylinder. :confused: :confused: :confused:

or is simply raising the top of the transfers by the thickness of the base gasket, after removing gasket, adequate? thats what i have been doing.

also, i use a die grinder that is rounded on the end, which is difficult to controll at best, on the transfers (works easy enough on intake & exhaust). is there anything better/easier?

any info or pointers greatly appreciated.

I just looked through the exhaust port with a small flashlight, and watched for the transfer to show. I wish I could find a better way.

Here's the grinder I bought, it works well. 1/8 collet, so all the Dremel bits will fit it.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=15980&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
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Use a very thin wire and bend it to fit through the spark plug and down into the corner of the transfer, closest to the intake port (usually the highest point if the transfers are sloped). Then, rotate slowly until the piston wedges the wire into the port and stops turning freely. I have found this method the most accurate and repeatable.

What saw are you working on, Greg?
 
four paws

thanks for the tip. i knew there had to be a trick somewhere.

then maybe add a degree or 2 for the thickness of the wire??

another ms460. its my favorite
 
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Another method is to blow low pressure air into the crankcase by way of the impulse hose.
 
Use a very thin wire and bend it to fit through the spark plug and down into the corner of the transfer, closest to the intake port (usually the highest point if the transfers are sloped). Then, rotate slowly until the piston wedges the wire into the port and stops turning freely. I have found this method the most accurate and repeatable.

What saw are you working on, Greg?

Like a piece of .030 wire from the mig welder, good idea!
 
thanks for the tip. i knew there had to be a trick somewhere.

then maybe add a degree or 2 for the thickness of the wire??

another ms460. its my favorite
Holy crap, that must be your favorite. You have 3 460's already and goin on the 4th. Wow.

Evan

P.S. I wish I had that many saws(including the repeat 460's)
 
favorite because several reasons not the least is they are popular around here and i can pick up 2 to make 1 at the saw shop for bout 2 bens. usually get them going w/ new b&c for 3-350. sell for 450-5. everyones happy!
 

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