cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Good to know
Depth gauge tool
- Thread starter MNfarmer
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Dam that combo is perfect.. perpendicular to bar, then change the angle. I would have never thought
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Damm all this is gold
Brings up an interesting point. How good is your eyesight cutter0103? I can't work off a stump or the tailgate of pickup like I could in my 20's. I have to clamp the bar in the vise, take my bi-focals off and get right up there under a good fluorescent light to see what's going on.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
I have excellent eyesight right now. Hearing not so much. Doesn't make much of a difference if I'm in the field or at home in the vice to me. Now of were talking about my old man. Well just say I sharpen his chains for him.
I got pretty lazy with my gullet, then tend to go after them hard, then need to "reset" myself to get the file up where it needs to be. It's an odd way of doing it. I may try a chain doing your style. See what results I get.
I do need to practice my square filing more. I'm just ok at it, and struggle to keep my working corner angles right. End up taking off more then I need to. They still cut well, just not as well as I'd like them too, or rather not as well as I think they should.
I've never seen anyone else do it as I described, (Buckin Billy does the "boat", maybe I need to name it lol) it's just something I figured out worked well for me. Another thing it helps with is getting my top plate angle more exact in relation the the witness marks. After filing the working corner, and I'm bringing the file back to the angle of the witness marks it's easy to see the angle is wrong, the more you bring it back, it's easy to see when you get it right. This can be helpful when using a 10 degree tilt too because you are watching the cutters angle more than the files angle, which will not be the same.
I’m not convinced about a burr. ‘Sharp’ for a scalpel or razor blade is one thing. Slamming something into tree bark 20 times per second takes a different kind of edge.
If it is too fine, it won’t hold up. Old joke about race chains is that they are good for 3 cuts: 2 down and 1 up!
Philbert
It's not unlike a knife edge though, and we're not really slamming them into the wood per say, at least not any more or less then say a router, or planer ect. Then again we're only getting so fine of an edge using a file and not changing over to a fine grit, so the burr is actually pretty corse when it comes off.
Batt4Christ
ArboristSite Lurker
The Stih 2-in-one is about as close to ***** -proof as imaginable.
Chipper mentioned shelf.
I've seen this in pics and assume the roller will leave a shelf on my cutters.
Question. Will leaving a sharp shelf generally make the cutter less grabby?
I do realize less hook will help with grabby.
Many demonstrations show cutting a cant or log at hip height.
Real world cutting around brush and vines is not always the same.
I've seen this in pics and assume the roller will leave a shelf on my cutters.
Question. Will leaving a sharp shelf generally make the cutter less grabby?
I do realize less hook will help with grabby.
Many demonstrations show cutting a cant or log at hip height.
Real world cutting around brush and vines is not always the same.
The shelf is actually the gullet(much of which should be filed away, there is none left once the chain is filed back further), it will either be at zero degrees or at the 10 degrees of tilt, based on how you sharpen. The side plate (back portion of where you file) will have the same angle as the top plate (typically 25-35 degrees for cutting across the grain).
The roller guide will leave a shelf when the chain is newer, not so much when it's back past half way where the cutter is shorter.
Yes, less hook(or side plate angle) will help with grabby, but it will not self feed as well and you will need to drop the rakers lower to get it to feed. When sharpening semi-chisel I add a little more hook so it feeds better, but I loose a little of the strength/ longevity you gain from using SC. In frozen or dirty wood I will use the stock hook on SC, for full-chisel I use a larger file or raise the file up on the cutter to reduce the hook for longevity.
One caveat to all this is the way many of the new chains are being ground from the factory, particularly the Oregon EXL and the new Husky x-cut chains. They have a very aggressive hook, you would need to hold the file nearly under the cutter to achieve the same angle. But this angle does not continue to follow the same arc as if you were filing with a 3/16 file held a little low, but rather it changes about .010-.015 below the top plate to have an arc much like a 7/32 or 13/64 file. You will find it's nearly impossible to hand file a chain as those chains come from the factory, especially using only one size file.
Not sure what you mean with regards to adding the vines and brush into the picture, it just means you need to watch the tip closer, same when cutting on a log pile(which I do not recommend for new cutters as it can be very dangerous).
75jeff
ArboristSite Lurker
I’m not familiar with mcculloch, do u know if any of those will work on 3/8“ chisel chain?
218738 is for 3/8 pitch round filed chisel chain.
Mark
Mark
