Depth of face cut

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I appreciate your response, thank you. Cutting right handed I don't think will ever feel 'natural' at all to a lefty, at least me. It almost gets physically challenging and I get worn out probably way too soon than a right hander. I'm so damn fixated on overcompensating for a 'kickback problem'...I grip the livin hell out of the handles. It's almost like I could imprint the handles with grip alone. I guess being over cautious better than being under.

First saw I ever owned, not ran but owned, was this one. Collector saws now, tiny, but worked well.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...b0a62d717a273b7288256b87000318a6?OpenDocument
 
I've got that PC lefty worm drive circular. Helluva saw. And none of my friends want to borrow it! I'm predominantly right handed due to 2nd grade teacher: "The left hand is the hand of the Devil!" But I do plenty of jobs with either hand including runing a chainsaw. Yeah, you've got to think sometimes. But it's nice to feel comfortable switching the saw so it best fits the particular operation. Chainsaws aren't bad compared to getting a high torque gear reduction hand held drill with a finger activated trigger lock. Left finger will set that trigger lock every time!
Think about language and its prejudices. In latin dexter means right, sinister means left. "hand of the devil" well maybe but who wants to be sinister?
 
USMC: Just make sure you are holding the saw correctly with thumb underneath the handle, fingers over the top. Like HS said, pay attention to where your bar tip is. Don't try to be fast. Try to be safe and smooth--get into the Zen.

Don't let Philbert hear this, but I don't even think about kickback when I'm cutting. If you have situational awareness of the bar tip, kickback doesn't happen much. Having a perma-death grip on the saw may keep you safer during a kickback event, but will likely cause you to face many more such events due to fatigue and jerky technique. I worry more about the power head coming back at me than the bar, as that is a bit harder to predict

Thanks for the input/advice so far folks. Trust me, it will not fall on deaf ears.
 
Nice. 440B or C?
It's a B Marshy. It has a few indiocys, it's on loan but is a good machine outer wise. I sure miss cutting hardwood, but we can only cut what we have. Half a loaf is always better than none. Lol
I wonder if it's possible to come back as a tree when we die, if so I want to be a cherry tree.
 
these are good enough that im not totally ashamed to post them up. I still have alot to learn and practice to do but here are some examples of what i think i learned from this thread....tell me how good or bad i did. they all fell where i wanted them to even the ones that were leaning the opposite way.

Cell 032.jpg Cell 033.jpg Cell 036.jpg Cell 037.jpg Cell 038.jpg Cell 039.jpg
 
Those look a little deep, f150. You don't really want more than 1/3 diameter. Your look close to 1/2.
 
I know this thread is about face cuts, but how about enlightening us on your back cut, fordf150. I am having a tough time reading your stumps. It looks like you are boring? If so, why? Afraid of a barber chair? The cut is longer than your bar? (Insert head-scratching emoticon here) :) Ron
 
I know this thread is about face cuts, but how about enlightening us on your back cut, fordf150. I am having a tough time reading your stumps. It looks like you are boring? If so, why? Afraid of a barber chair? The cut is longer than your bar? (Insert head-scratching emoticon here) :) Ron
Just a guess but looks like he's doing a partial back cut, inserting a wedge, going to the other side to complete the backcut.

I'll see if I can get a pic of the elm that I took today. I went a little deep on my horizontal cut in the face and cut through just a little. You'll see what I mean when I post it up. Tree was all of 24" or slightly more in the center at the stump. My 24" bar couldnt reach all the way through, just short by the depth of my dogs on my 285.
 
Marshy, I understand what you are describing, but I can't tell if those are wedge marks or not? Unless I am wrong on the size, the wedge would have to be a stubby so as not to hit the hinge. Ron
 
I know this thread is about face cuts, but how about enlightening us on your back cut, fordf150. I am having a tough time reading your stumps. It looks like you are boring? If so, why? Afraid of a barber chair? The cut is longer than your bar? (Insert head-scratching emoticon here) :) Ron

Just a guess but looks like he's doing a partial back cut, inserting a wedge, going to the other side to complete the backcut.

those trees are only 10-12" and all my wedges are stubby except the new ones i havent used yet.
 
i am pretty proud of those stumps...if you could only see my previous ones to compare you would understand. i did cut from one side. insert wedge. then to the other side to finish the cut. worked good and was able to get the trees down right where i wanted them which on a few was against the lean/ canopy. i realize i cut through the hinge on a couple and too deep on the face but was still proud enough of those to post em up and get a little feedback on what i did right/wrong.
 
I'm know I'm probably volunteering to stand in front of the firing squad but, meh why not. Always got something to learn. Here's an elm I just removed. Stump is about 22" at the cut. The horizontal cut in the face was a little deeper than my the angled cut on accident. I bore cut and backed all of the way out of the back cut. I intentionally left less holding wood furthest side if the stump because I was trying to get it to turn some to the left. It had some back lean in the opposite direction I was trying to get it to land. It fell right where I wanted. Flame away.
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