Dewalt RAS

[rarefish383]

I've never had a RAS and thought one would be nice for cutting square ends on the slabs for my slab furniture. All I know is that when making a cut you want to bring the blade out and make your cut pushing back in. If trying to cut coming out the blade can catch and run out on you very fast.

There is a Dewalt 790 for sale not far from my farm. It's a 12" saw. I'll be going in that general direction on a hunting trip next week. The owner says the saw was purchased for 1200 bucks new, used for one remodel project, and stored covered since. It looks fine in the pic. The asking price is $400.

I looked on line for info and some said it's a great saw, some say pass on a RAS. It was mentioned that there was a redesign moving the adjustment crank form the rear of the machine to the front. This one the crank is at the rear.

Some said a good table saw is better than a RAS. With a plank 3" thick, 20 to 24" wide, and 6 to 8' long, wieghing 100 pounds, how do you push that across a table saw?

I'm very new to wood working, and really just like building slab benches and tables at this point. My FIL has a very nice wood shop I can use when ever I need. The RAS looks like just what I need. Any thought from you guys? Thanks, Joe.

 

[Beefie]

I've never had a RAS and thought one would be nice for cutting square ends on the slabs for my slab furniture. All I know is that when making a cut you want to bring the blade out and make your cut pushing back in. If trying to cut coming out the blade can catch and run out on you very fast.

There is a Dewalt 790 for sale not far from my farm. It's a 12" saw. I'll be going in that general direction on a hunting trip next week. The owner says the saw was purchased for 1200 bucks new, used for one remodel project, and stored covered since. It looks fine in the pic. The asking price is $400.

I looked on line for info and some said it's a great saw, some say pass on a RAS. It was mentioned that there was a redesign moving the adjustment crank form the rear of the machine to the front. This one the crank is at the rear.

Some said a good table saw is better than a RAS. With a plank 3" thick, 20 to 24" wide, and 6 to 8' long, wieghing 100 pounds, how do you push that across a table saw?

I'm very new to wood working, and really just like building slab benches and tables at this point. My FIL has a very nice wood shop I can use when ever I need. The RAS looks like just what I need. Any thought from you guys? Thanks, Joe.

Your first Paragraph is not right , You never push into the wood with a radial arm saw. Always pull into the wood. That being said, yes radial arms do have a tendency to climb the wood, but table saws have a chance to kick back. It is all in knowing the machine you are using. Sharp blades make a big difference in woodworking just like they do on a chainsaw.

I have a Dewalt 12" radial arm saw, and I also have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw. I think they still have there place in the woodshop. Thee new miter boxes are nice, and slide out pretty far but you can't do a rabbit or dado cut on one.

Power sliding miter boxes you pull out above and past the work , then push it down and in. Radial arm saws you just pull thru the work .

$400 is not a bad price on a radial arm saw, I think I paid 125 for mine but it was heavily used.

Hope this helps.

 

[rarefish383]

I see where you're right, it was my BIL's sliding miter, that he told me to push back in when cutting, Joe.

 

[betterbuilt]

The RAS has a place in my shop. I thought it would do the exact same thing but it became apparent really quick that it wasn't the right tool for the job. I have a RAS and I like it for cutting boards down to a usable size. I don't consider it very accurate. I use mine to cut thing close and then i turn to the table saw or a chop saw for more accuracy. With a 3inch slab mine might cut 12-14 inches but I'm still left with the chore of flipping the slab to finish the cut. As for cutting slabs, I think it wouldn't be my first choice. I doubt I'd use the table saw either. Try to feed a huge piece of wood into a table saw seems pretty dangerous.

I have the exact same problem. My circular saw maxes at 2 3/8 and I'm left with flipping the slab and making another cut. I then use a router to clean up the cut. I've been thinking about getting a electric chainsaw for sizing my slabs and then use the router to true up the cut. They do make some large circular saws that can cut up to 6inches.

I'd say the RAS sounds like a good deal but don't expect it to cut a 3inch slab that's 24 inches in one cut. Hope that helps.

 

[Timberframed]

There are blades designed to work on an RAS with what's called negative rake. Amana carries them. This greatly reduces the saw jumping into the wood. But with almost any machine, if it's trying to bite too much just ease back.

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This 9" saw works fine for me with a crosscut of 16 ¾". I'm going to add a length of the lower arm so it can cut 25".

[/URL][/IMG] This 14" I haven't put online yet will crosscut 22". They made a longarm version with a 30" cut. These machines can be as accurate as a Swiss watch when adjusted and tuned in proper.

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[Daninvan]

I'm not sure a RAS is the right tool either.

First of all their is the size issue, a 14" or 22" saw might or might not work depending on the width of the slabs you typically cut.

The second problem I see with a RAS is that the slab is typically not flat after its dried for a year or two (unless you are going to flatten it before you trim it to length), so I don't see it as being a very safe operation to cut a wobbly slab. I gave my RAS away for these reasons.

A possible third problem (I'm in a bad mood this morning for some reason-sorry! ) is that if you want a cut other than straight the RAS is not the tool. Eg a gentle curve.

I use a sawzall (or a skilsaw for skinnier slabs) to trim to length. A small chainsaw would work too.

 

[BobL]

I'm not sure a RAS is the right tool either.

First of all their is the size issue, a 14" or 22" saw might or might not work depending on the width of the slabs you typically cut.

The second problem I see with a RAS is that the slab is typically not flat after its dried for a year or two (unless you are going to flatten it before you trim it to length), so I don't see it as being a very safe operation to cut a wobbly slab. I gave my RAS away for these reasons. [/QUOTE]
I agree we have one at the milling yard and it's not the right machine for you are trying to do.

(I'm in a bad mood this morning for some reason-sorry! )

Dan, I just cannot imagine you in a bad mood of any kind!

I use a sawzall (or a skilsaw for skinnier slabs) to trim to length. A small chainsaw would work too.

A mate of mine uses an electric chainsaw with pico chain and the cutter top plate set to 15º and it makes a surprisingly smooth cut.

 

[thechknhwk]

Clamp a straight edge to the slab and then use a skill saw with a good blade in it. That's what I do when I need to cut plywood or 1x12 or something of that size.

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks for the input, now I have an idea. Several years ago I bought a 12 or 15' Poulan power pruner, it had a little 6" bar on it. It has a standard Poulan mount on it, so I put a 14" bar on it, works great. I can stick that little bar on a Wild Thang and permantly mount it to a mini mill, might be just the ticket, and a lot cheaper. Thanks again, Joe.

 

[irishcountry]

Almost lost a thumb to a RAS because of climb and a dull blade every since them I've been leary of them scare the crap out of me!!!

 

[Brmorgan]

I have a 10"Craftsman Professional RAS I bought two years back at a yard sale for $80 - when I bought it they still sold the same model for $1000 CDN out of the catalog. I had to put $30 worth of parts into it to replace a couple busted Aluminum castings, but it works like a charm and I use it all the time. The best blade I've found for mine so far is Freud's "Ultra Fine Crosscut". It's an 80-tooth blade with a fairly negative hook angle. Gives, as the name says, an ultra fine, very smooth cut, and isn't very prone at all to climbing and racing at you because of the negative hook. #1 rule with a Radial though is to always make sure your thumb is out of the line of cut; that's the most common mistake with them. Mine has a laser line, so it's an easy reminder. Still makes me squirm just thinking of it though.

Radials can be trickier to get dialled in and cutting true than a good tablesaw or sliding miter, but once they are they're a very versatile tool that can replace the majority of the tasks of both. I use mine for trimming slabs all the time; I've also mounted the dado set on it and cut shelf dadoes, much faster than I could have on a tablesaw, and I even have a shaper head for it so I can cut moldings and the like.

The old DeWalt radials are very highly regarded; they're built like tanks and are very accurate.

I have the exact same problem. My circular saw maxes at 2 3/8 and I'm left with flipping the slab and making another cut. I then use a router to clean up the cut. I've been thinking about getting a electric chainsaw for sizing my slabs and then use the router to true up the cut. They do make some large circular saws that can cut up to 6inches.

Like this one?
http://www.kmstools.com/makita-16-5-16-circular-saw-3225

They're mostly for timberframe construction and log home building, but I can't imagine using one of those handheld. My cousin used to work at a stair factory and used a 10" handheld circular from time to time to cut 4" thick Douglas Fir timbers, and said even that would near tear your arm off if they kicked back.

 

[betterbuilt]

Just something to know if Your saw is one of the one models that were effected in the recall. The recall sends some models a new guard, table top and a new handle.

 

[Timberframed]

One of these works incredibly accurate and a smooth cut to boot. Bolts up to any Skill 77 and some Makita side winders. 14" cut for trimming the big slabs. You have the advantage to run a straight edge + bevel to 45°

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As far as RAS's go, get set up like this and you will be happier than a pig in mud!

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[stipes]

Hey Brad..

I bought a Ridgid RAS last year for 125 and it looks to be the same exact copy of the Craftsman in that time frame...Both made by Emerson Eletric...

"Radials can be trickier to get dialled in and cutting true than a good tablesaw or sliding miter, but once they are they're a very versatile tool that can replace the majority of the tasks of both. I use mine for trimming slabs all the time; I've also mounted the dado set on it and cut shelf dadoes, much faster than I could have on a tablesaw, and I even have a shaper head for it so I can cut moldings and the like."

Thats so true...Once you get everything dialed in is where the fun begins..It saved me alot of time with dados,,tendons,,and crosscuts on really long boards...The most kick backs I had where I used a hand circular saw havin to crosscut long boards on a saw horse...
One task I am really iffy about is ripping with a RAS...I'll just use my table saw for that.... I dont even wanna try that....
I guess with a RAS is alot of people either like em or hate em...I do enjoy mine....

 

[Timberframed]

With a long enough fence system, an RAS can rip the crowns out. They were designed with that in mind. Again, as with any machine, use caution.

 

[huskyhank]

I'd look for a big circular saw. Makita makes some up to 16" cut.
Here's the Makita page -- http://www.makita.com/en-us/modules/tools/default.aspx?catid=26