The LMF 19 came with a single stage pump probaly a 3gpm. switching to a 11 gpm 2-stage should cut the cycle time in half.
Didier splitters
- Thread starter Wife'nHubby
- Start date
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Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | Northern Tool + Equipment
Hydraulic Supply | Dalton Hydraulics | Tie Rod Cylinders
Surplus Center
Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | Northern Tool + Equipment
mama
ArboristSite Operative
points
Has anyone replaced the points on there Didier splitter.
Has anyone replaced the points on there Didier splitter.
richt100
ArboristSite Lurker
Didier Splitter Points
Are you referring to the engine points? I know of no other points on the splitter.
Are you referring to the engine points? I know of no other points on the splitter.
mama
ArboristSite Operative
Yes engine points.
richt100
ArboristSite Lurker
Engine Points
The engine points are located under the flyweel. I assume your engine is as old as the one I had on mine. The replacement armature coil that I bought now eliminates points. So, maybe that is why you can't find it.:rolleyes2:
The engine points are located under the flyweel. I assume your engine is as old as the one I had on mine. The replacement armature coil that I bought now eliminates points. So, maybe that is why you can't find it.:rolleyes2:
mama
ArboristSite Operative
I've never replaced the points since I've had the splitter. The next couple of days I'll check them out. Would like to do away with the points. Have considered a new motor being this is the original engine.
richt100
ArboristSite Lurker
New Engine
I bought a new motor for mine. The old motor kept breaking shear keys and killing the engine. It was just too old, gears kept binding. I bought a 3 1/2 HP, which is probably on the small size. As you can see from the table provided by Wife'nHubby 5 HP is the recommended size. Plan on paying about $400 for a new one (ouch).
I bought a new motor for mine. The old motor kept breaking shear keys and killing the engine. It was just too old, gears kept binding. I bought a 3 1/2 HP, which is probably on the small size. As you can see from the table provided by Wife'nHubby 5 HP is the recommended size. Plan on paying about $400 for a new one (ouch).
Cigarman
ArboristSite Lurker
Mine has a Newer Briggs and Stratton 8.75 on it. Runs fantastic and has a quick cycle too.
DodgeTrucker91
New Member
Troy Bilt Didier
Just found your site today, excellent information. i have an oddball (maybe) that I'm looking for info on. I just picked up a Garden Way/Troy Bilt splitter yesterday (977 mile round trip to MD from OH in 19 hours, am I nuts?!?!). It is a Model L2000 and is designed to mount to a Troy Bilt "Horse" tiller in place of the rear tines and gear box assembly. Mine clearly shows "Didier Mfg., a division of Douglas Dynamics, Milwaukee, WI" on the data tag, with the model & serial numbers. The safety and instruction stickers are also clearly marked "Garden Way Mfg., Troy, NY" and "Troy Bilt Log Splitter' and, though peeling, are original. The owner's manual for my tiller (circa. 1989) shows this splitter, as well as a chipper/shredder, a generator, and a blade as accessories for the tiller, but little information beyond the typical "contact your dealer for further details". My local dealer has handled Troy Bilt from the '70s and stated that the splitter was still available new up until Troy Bilt's bankruptcy, when it and Bolens were sold to MTD of Cleveland, OH. He thought the original retail was in the $1200-$1300 range when last available. I have a e-mail in to Douglas Dynamics, with is now in the snow removal business, to see if they can shed a little bit of light (maybe). I came up with nothing on Troy Bilt's site so far, but may contact them by phone Monday.
Any members have anything on this? Anything I find out I will try to pass on, to increase the general knowledge of things. I am looking for an owner's manual and/or any specs on this unit. I will try to post a couple of pics if I can figure out how to get my phone and computer to talk to each other (e-tech is not my bag, no nuts or bolts to hold it together. But, I am trying to learn). Thanks in advance for any info you all may be able to pass along. :msp_thumbup:
Just found your site today, excellent information. i have an oddball (maybe) that I'm looking for info on. I just picked up a Garden Way/Troy Bilt splitter yesterday (977 mile round trip to MD from OH in 19 hours, am I nuts?!?!). It is a Model L2000 and is designed to mount to a Troy Bilt "Horse" tiller in place of the rear tines and gear box assembly. Mine clearly shows "Didier Mfg., a division of Douglas Dynamics, Milwaukee, WI" on the data tag, with the model & serial numbers. The safety and instruction stickers are also clearly marked "Garden Way Mfg., Troy, NY" and "Troy Bilt Log Splitter' and, though peeling, are original. The owner's manual for my tiller (circa. 1989) shows this splitter, as well as a chipper/shredder, a generator, and a blade as accessories for the tiller, but little information beyond the typical "contact your dealer for further details". My local dealer has handled Troy Bilt from the '70s and stated that the splitter was still available new up until Troy Bilt's bankruptcy, when it and Bolens were sold to MTD of Cleveland, OH. He thought the original retail was in the $1200-$1300 range when last available. I have a e-mail in to Douglas Dynamics, with is now in the snow removal business, to see if they can shed a little bit of light (maybe). I came up with nothing on Troy Bilt's site so far, but may contact them by phone Monday.
Any members have anything on this? Anything I find out I will try to pass on, to increase the general knowledge of things. I am looking for an owner's manual and/or any specs on this unit. I will try to post a couple of pics if I can figure out how to get my phone and computer to talk to each other (e-tech is not my bag, no nuts or bolts to hold it together. But, I am trying to learn). Thanks in advance for any info you all may be able to pass along. :msp_thumbup:
Here is a link to a previous thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/188781.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/188781.htm
DodgeTrucker91
New Member
Thanks for the link. I didn't even think to do a search by model #. As an update, I just received an e-mail from Troy Bilt with a pdf. for the owner's manual and the parts list. I'll also post this on the "L2000" thread. It'll take me a couple of days to get it into a form I can use, but I should be able to pass it along to anyone who needs it. :msp_thumbup:
Keith Blair
New Member
Didier splitters - I need help
I have a Hydra-Splitter here. Marvellous, but it has had no service attention for ages. What hydraulic fluid do I use in the ram reservoir? Can I down-load a handbook anywhere? Any help would be most welcome. These machines are rare here in the UK.
I'm getting a good wood-pile, and would like to give the splitter some love and care so it remains a faithful friend.
Thanks
Keith (new member)
Here's a spec sheet on Didier's - hope you can read it.
Shari
I have a Hydra-Splitter here. Marvellous, but it has had no service attention for ages. What hydraulic fluid do I use in the ram reservoir? Can I down-load a handbook anywhere? Any help would be most welcome. These machines are rare here in the UK.
I'm getting a good wood-pile, and would like to give the splitter some love and care so it remains a faithful friend.
Thanks
Keith (new member)
sawbuckjohn
ArboristSite Lurker
I got my Didier running, splitting well
Hi everybody, I want to thank past posters for the info and throw a special thank you to Shari, Compliment Triptester on the mods and share a little. I got my splitter in non running, partially disassembled, condition(of course). So after I got the 10 hp. Briggs(replacement engine) running, I examined, and inspected the pump,valve, cylinder, tank ,Hoses and found them pretty good by outward appearances.I drained the rest of the oil out of everything I could, After welding the pump bracket to the frame, mounting pump and coupling, Adding new 10 weight hyd. oil., I fired it up and it ran the cylinder out(no load) and retracted it slowly. I cycled it a few more times and it began to studder. I cycled it many more times thinking I now had all the air cycled out of the system. I then started dismantling components and rechecking. Now I know that it's almost impossible to tell some worn out parts, but I could seeno worn o-rings, no scoring, etc.- I re adjusted the 2 stage pressure setting and installed a washer in the control valve bypass, and no change. I was able to turn the cyl rod by hand, which I thought was odd, so I began to suspect the cyl. rings & packing. Thinking I was getting blowby I started checking to see how to dismantle it, kinda figured that out, decided to take the cylinder to my JR Hydraulics, and pay. I pondered it some more and decided to try one more thing. I had always thought that if you cycle it enough you would get all the air out of the system, but not so. I removed the front hose from the cyl(fully retracted) and removed the elbow, poured in some oil..., then some more..., then some more, and finally it burped out. Put it back together and VOILA!!! Worked like a champ! I tried bigger and bigger pieces, and could see and hear it kicking into high pressure stage etc. Knotty stuff and even standing up and down stuff, crack! right through! I love it.
Hi everybody, I want to thank past posters for the info and throw a special thank you to Shari, Compliment Triptester on the mods and share a little. I got my splitter in non running, partially disassembled, condition(of course). So after I got the 10 hp. Briggs(replacement engine) running, I examined, and inspected the pump,valve, cylinder, tank ,Hoses and found them pretty good by outward appearances.I drained the rest of the oil out of everything I could, After welding the pump bracket to the frame, mounting pump and coupling, Adding new 10 weight hyd. oil., I fired it up and it ran the cylinder out(no load) and retracted it slowly. I cycled it a few more times and it began to studder. I cycled it many more times thinking I now had all the air cycled out of the system. I then started dismantling components and rechecking. Now I know that it's almost impossible to tell some worn out parts, but I could seeno worn o-rings, no scoring, etc.- I re adjusted the 2 stage pressure setting and installed a washer in the control valve bypass, and no change. I was able to turn the cyl rod by hand, which I thought was odd, so I began to suspect the cyl. rings & packing. Thinking I was getting blowby I started checking to see how to dismantle it, kinda figured that out, decided to take the cylinder to my JR Hydraulics, and pay. I pondered it some more and decided to try one more thing. I had always thought that if you cycle it enough you would get all the air out of the system, but not so. I removed the front hose from the cyl(fully retracted) and removed the elbow, poured in some oil..., then some more..., then some more, and finally it burped out. Put it back together and VOILA!!! Worked like a champ! I tried bigger and bigger pieces, and could see and hear it kicking into high pressure stage etc. Knotty stuff and even standing up and down stuff, crack! right through! I love it.
Wife'nHubby
Addicted to ArboristSite
Welcome to the Didier group! Shari
sawbuckjohn
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey Keith,
Since noone else is jumping in here, I want to try. I know there is a manual download available, I think possibly in a previous thread, however, if you ask Shari nicely, She might send it to you. On the issue of oil, the manual may tell you, but my experience tells me to first determine what's in it. If it's red, it's Automatic Trannsmission Fluid more than likely. Do not mix regular 10 weight with it, rather decide what you want to run in it, good idea to drain all the oil out of the hydraulic system and fill it back up. I run 10weight hydraulic oil, many people run ATF,(type F). DO NOT MIX the two.
Wife'nHubby
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sawbuck - I already sent him the manuals.
If anyone knows if I could make the Didier manuals a sticky note somewhere I'd be all for it.
Shari
If anyone knows if I could make the Didier manuals a sticky note somewhere I'd be all for it.
Shari
Cigarman
ArboristSite Lurker
My Diddier had regular motor oil in it. So that's what I wound up refilling it with.
Runs great and a little cheaper than the Hydraulic oil.
The original owners manual states you can use either 10W-30-40 motor oil or Hydraulic fluid.
Keith Blair
New Member
Thanks from Keith Blair
Dear Shari
I enjoyed reading your notes about Didier and its history. I was impressed by how quickly you and Cigarman came back with some answers. There are some interesting parallels on the screen. We've had a Jotul, which was really good. That was our first wood stove, the tall one like a flatiron with 2 big cooking rings. Then we got a Cotswold (made in the UK Midlands - all 1/2 inch steel and cast iron). We cook on that too. Now we are going for a Dunsley Highlander 10, made in Yorkshire, with boiler, to back up our solar hot water and PV electricity. When the lights go out, at least we'll be warm. We cut our wood with a couple of Stihls. Last one lasted from 1977 until now - my brother-in-law still has it. Pretty reliable - and after 30 years, you can get parts. Eat your heart out competition - Stihl is dear, but you get what you pay for.
Sorry, I didn't get the manual download you mention, but I would love it. I was in Milwaukee in 1983 to see Harley. I liked the town, it's got real character. The Didier looks like it was designed by someone with German relatives - rugged is the word. Do you actually work for the folk who took over the Didier brand? You sound well-informed. Anyway, thanks for your support. If you'd like to email the manual, I'll be you best friend.
Keith
Dear Shari
I enjoyed reading your notes about Didier and its history. I was impressed by how quickly you and Cigarman came back with some answers. There are some interesting parallels on the screen. We've had a Jotul, which was really good. That was our first wood stove, the tall one like a flatiron with 2 big cooking rings. Then we got a Cotswold (made in the UK Midlands - all 1/2 inch steel and cast iron). We cook on that too. Now we are going for a Dunsley Highlander 10, made in Yorkshire, with boiler, to back up our solar hot water and PV electricity. When the lights go out, at least we'll be warm. We cut our wood with a couple of Stihls. Last one lasted from 1977 until now - my brother-in-law still has it. Pretty reliable - and after 30 years, you can get parts. Eat your heart out competition - Stihl is dear, but you get what you pay for.
Sorry, I didn't get the manual download you mention, but I would love it. I was in Milwaukee in 1983 to see Harley. I liked the town, it's got real character. The Didier looks like it was designed by someone with German relatives - rugged is the word. Do you actually work for the folk who took over the Didier brand? You sound well-informed. Anyway, thanks for your support. If you'd like to email the manual, I'll be you best friend.
Keith
Keith Blair
New Member
Thanks from Keith Blair
Cigarman - that's good news. 10W-40 will do nicely, a real air-cooled motorcycle engine oil. We've always got that. I'm grateful to you for your trouble. Since I'm writing, do you know if anyone has replacement jaws (the ones that go round the top of the I-beam)? It looks like these distort with time. Otherwise, I shall have to get some made.
Have a good weekend.
Keith
Cigarman - that's good news. 10W-40 will do nicely, a real air-cooled motorcycle engine oil. We've always got that. I'm grateful to you for your trouble. Since I'm writing, do you know if anyone has replacement jaws (the ones that go round the top of the I-beam)? It looks like these distort with time. Otherwise, I shall have to get some made.
Have a good weekend.
Keith
