Didier splitters

Wesspur
Rugged made
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The pumps are not rebuild-able, a new 11 gpm pump is about 120.00 or so. The shims etc. inside them are to .0001 or there abouts. You really need a pressure gauge to tell if the pump is bad. One thing you can make sure of though is the Lovejoy coupler hasn't sheared a key off or otherwise broken. This would allow the pump to spin until it had a real load, then it would just slip. I had to replace the pump on my Didier about 4 years ago, it had gotten so weak, it would just stall when the oil got hot.
 
The pumps are considered non-rebuildable. The pump you listed will work. One way of testing the cylinder seals is to extend the ram, then place a jack between the wedge and push plate, use a mechanical jack most hydraulic jacks don't work in the horizontal position. With the control valve in the center position apply force to retract the ram. The ram should hold it's position if the seals are good. Also check the coupling between the pump and engine to see if it is slipping.
 
If I get some time in the day tomorrow, I will check ram and pump. Ram is easy, as I have a bottle Jack that I believe works in horizontal. Pump seems easy to check shear pin.

ANY idea if tonnage on this? I'm think 12-25?
 
triptester said:
With the control valve in the center position apply force to retract the ram. The ram should hold it's position if the seals are good. .
Click to expand...


SO I am assuming that the ram is in good nick. I used a bottle jack to push the ram backwards. It moved an inch and then was rock hard. I pulled the control lever forward and it bled off the pressure. I did this again and used the reverse direction and again it bled off the pressure. I am now leaning towards pump hard. Either the lovejoy is messed up or its the pump. So, if the lovejoy is good, then I will order the pump.

Thanks guys!!
 
Thanks for the help guys!!! SO I removed the Lovejoy from the pump. I know am 99% sure that the pump is bad. The rotation is very, very jerky. It sticks in spots and then gets stuck and will not move. You then have to rotate it the other direction and then back to get a full rotation out of it. So Yes, it moves fluid, but not at pressure and the pump never goes to the high pressure stage either.

I appreciate the help. I will post a vid once I get the pump in.


P.S.. WHat GPM pump SHOULD I get? I am looking at an 11GPM right now.
Dave
 
Pump size is determined by available hp.. A 5.5 hp. engine will handle a 11 gpm 2-stage pump. A 6.5 hp. engine will handle a 13 gpm 2-stage pump. 8 hp. is required for a 16 gpm 2-stage pump.
 
triptester said:
Pump size is determined by available hp.. A 5.5 hp. engine will handle a 11 gpm 2-stage pump. A 6.5 hp. engine will handle a 13 gpm 2-stage pump. 8 hp. is required for a 16 gpm 2-stage pump.
Click to expand...


Groovy. The Intek 206CC I have is rated at 5.5 HP, so 11 is perfect. Thanks for the response!!
 
As a side note: Looks like a previous owner added to the ram (my ram is flat w/o the square-ish tubing added). The result will be that your ram will probably touch or nearly touch your wedge - effectively by-passing a safety measure built into the splitter. Ram hitting wedge is not good if your hand or fingers are in the way.........
 
OK, got the new pump on. Adjusted the idle on the engine, flushed 5 gallons of hydraulic oil through system till oil was clear. Fired it up and same thing. no pressure. The old pump was bad no doubt. I could see teeth rusted in side of it.

Once I ran it for awhile, I noticed a lot of foaming. The seals kinda tested ok for the ram, so is the control unit suspect? If I bring it back, the ram starts to move forward a tad.

Thanks'
Dave
 
1967 Tempest said:
OK, got the new pump on. Adjusted the idle on the engine, flushed 5 gallons of hydraulic oil through system till oil was clear. Fired it up and same thing. no pressure. The old pump was bad no doubt. I could see teeth rusted in side of it.

Once I ran it for awhile, I noticed a lot of foaming. The seals kinda tested ok for the ram, so is the control unit suspect? If I bring it back, the ram starts to move forward a tad.

Thanks'
Dave
Click to expand...
if your oil is foaming you are sucking air someplace check your connections and hoses
 
hamerlaner said:
if your oil is foaming you are sucking air someplace check your connections and hoses
Click to expand...

So I checked every hose and tightened them up. No loose hoses. The return line does not look like its the greatest. Could that introduce air? Also the fluid did have a red tint to it, so I am assuming ATF, but the rust in the pump could have caused a tint as well. Here is a picture of the oil I flushed through. Could this not be thick enough? I see no AW rating anywhere on this bucket.

Thanks
Dave

IMG_0666_zps6714cf14.jpg
 
oil is fine could also be leaky O-rings on your spool valve they may be buy passing I bought a new valve for mine on e-bay auction for 30.00 the good news is when your done you will have a really good splitter
 
The 2-stage pumps operate in all positions. The two places air can get into the system are low fluid level in reservior and hose between reservior and pump. The rest of the hydraulic system is under pressure which can leak fluid but not suck air.
 

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