Didier splitters

[triptester]

Type in the specs

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm

 

[Wife'nHubby]

I am not splitter guru but I would think you should also consider the smaller size (narrower & shorter in height) of your I-beam. If you max out speed/engine/pump etc you could end up permanently torquing the beam - and end up building yourself a new splitter using your new parts and the existing Didier axle and tires. But............. as I said............. I'm no splitter guru. I only split a max of around 3-4 cord of firewood per year and in my off time I can bake a mean batch of brownies.

 

[Woodsman76]

I have a Didier splitter that I bought several years ago at an auction for $375. It has been modified as you can see in the pictures. I read all 27 pages of post in the thread. Cleaned the hydro fluid/oil reservoir and refilled. For the life of me I can not find any type of filter or screen for the hydraulics? I also purchased a rebuild kit for the carb. I have yet to do that. My issue is when I put any load to the hydros the engine dies? the engine seems to have plenty of compression. My first 2 thoughts were hydraulic fluid and filter needed changed and rebuild the carb. As mentioned no clue where to locate the hydro filter but the fluid is now new. Before I tore into the carb I figured I would ask here. Thanks in advance. I will also message "wife-n-hubby" for the owners manual.
Not sure what model on the chart posted I have but it says Model-MFD. Code-5G on the tag.

 

[triptester]

Didiers did not have a filter or screen. The stalling of the engine may be due to lack of power or binding of the cylinder.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Interesting block of wood attached to the ram........... defeats a safety measure....... Mine has had a couple of 1" steel plates added to the butt end of the cylinder - same effect - moves the ram closer to the wedge.

Second picture down: Has there been something attached to the top of the beam and it ends just before the wedge? If yes, is the slide rail on the ram hanging up due to extra thickness of the beam and bogging down the engine?

Gotta go, brownies are done.

PS Manuals have been sent.

 

[Woodsman76]

Ok so no hydro filter good to know.

Yes the block of wood is a great way to subvert the safety. It works great and can always be removed.

As for anything being added to the beam, Nope, The factory guide plate is the only thing on there and it has never caused issue.
I really do not think the ram is binding up. The brass looking slides under are in decent shape. Everything is tight and slides smooth but I will double check soon as I head back out to work on it.

Thx 4 the manuals.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

I am looking at this area, where the red arrow is pointing. Am I seeing a difference between the beams?
(your photo on left, my photo on right)

 

[Woodsman76]

You are correct there is a difference. If you look at I believe page 7 figure 9 of the manual you sent me some of the splitter must have come from the factory with that guide built in. The rail guides on mine are made to slide on that guide.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Believe it or not I never noticed that in the manual. Obviously mine does not have that but yours does.

 

[Woodsman76]

So the student teaches the master. lol. Think I am going to address rebuilding the carb and cleaning the fuel system today. Seems like as soon as you pull the hydro handle the engine bogs or dies about half the time. The other half is when a log is on it and it starts splitting. Almost acts like it is not getting enough gas when under load? Process of elimination will decide I hope. I have used this splitter for 5-6 years no issue. Split about 2 cord this past week no issue. Then all of the sudden BAM starts dying.

 

[Woodsman76]

Carb rebuilt, gas tank cleaned and everything put back together. Runs great until I try to use the hydraulics. As soon as I pull the lever the engine dies. I double checked the ram guides and rail. No bind there. Also lubed them up good. Any thoughts? When I changed the hydro fluid I did not have the manual. I emptied the system, cleaned it out and refilled fully. Then eased the cylinder in and out to purge the air. The manual says to only fill part way, run the ram so far, add more fluid, move ram and so on until full. Could this have anything to do with it? Or maybe something in the hydraulics is plugged up? The new fluid went all the way threw no issue when I refilled. I am at a loss??

 

[triptester]

Are you running the engine at full throttle when it dies? In normal operation the engine will bog down when pressures near their peak but then the relief in the control valve opens reducing pressure before the engine kills.
For a healthy engine to kill a combination of things would have to happen, no cylinder movement and a stuck closed relief.

 

[Woodsman76]

So I loosened up the hydraulic fluid cap and the ram now works perfect. I tighten it back down and it kills then engine. Prior to changing the fluid the cap could not be tightened all the way down due to the plate that holds the tank down being off center. When I cleaned the system I straightened the plate and tightened the cap. Odd but for some reason it makes a difference?? Maybe it does not vent air out of the tiny hole in the cap fast enough? No idea but it is now working as good as ever....

 

[Bruce Putnam]

Does anybody know a source to replace the guide plates? Mine are extremely worn and I just broke the threaded end off the ram part of the cylinder. Now I either have to find a new cylinder or get to a cylinder repair shop 1 1/2 hours away each way. Plus it is the 48" model splitter.
Thanks Bruce

 

[Woodsman76]

From everything I have read Bruce you cannot buy the parts for Didier anymore. That being said several people have had machine shops manufacture new guides for their splitters. The ram can either be taken to a hydraulic shop or you can buy a lot of the parts to fix it yourself.

So my stalling engine issue is back. The day I loosened the cap and it ran great I thought it was fixed. Started it yesterday and back to dying under load. I took the relief valve apart and everything appears to be in good working order. I am going to take the head off the engine and inspect the valves and head. I have a feeling the engine is just flat wore out. It does have compression but I can turn the shaft by hand. Thinking the compression is weak?? Only other thought is maybe a valve in the hydraulics is partially plugged or something in there is cracked? The ram runs fine other than the engine stalling out when I pull the lever.

 

[JCurcio]

Hello, I am new to the site and actually stumbled onto this post through a google search for Didier Log Splitters. I just rescued one from a farm field and am trying to get it going again. The splitter sat for a few years and is in rough shape. I swapped the motor with a Harbor Freight one as many others have done. Once I got it running, I realized that the cylinder seals were completely shot and it started leaking fluid like a sieve. I pulled the cylinder apart and the cup seal around the rod was so brittle that it just crumbled. This cylinder seems easy to rebuild but I have no idea where to find a seal kit for this thing. Has anyone had any luck finding seals for these cylinders or should I bite the bullet and buy a new cylinder? Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding, or getting parts for them? I would appreciate any help or advice you guys may have. I would also appreciate if any of you would be willing to share the owners manual file with me at [email protected]

Thanks, Jordan

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Hello, I am new to the site and actually stumbled onto this post through a google search for Didier Log Splitters. I just rescued one from a farm field and am trying to get it going again. The splitter sat for a few years and is in rough shape. I swapped the motor with a Harbor Freight one as many others have done. Once I got it running, I realized that the cylinder seals were completely shot and it started leaking fluid like a sieve. I pulled the cylinder apart and the cup seal around the rod was so brittle that it just crumbled. This cylinder seems easy to rebuild but I have no idea where to find a seal kit for this thing. Has anyone had any luck finding seals for these cylinders or should I bite the bullet and buy a new cylinder? Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding, or getting parts for them? I would appreciate any help or advice you guys may have. I would also appreciate if any of you would be willing to share the owners manual file with me at [email protected]

Jorda

Jordan,

Manual is being sent to your email.

As previously stated, try a hydraulic repair shop or a farm implement dealer or even Granger. I think there are a couple more parts stores suggested in this thread also.

Shari

 

[wtrass]

Jordan- give me a day or two but I have part numbers from rebuilding my cylinder in the shop. That would also depend on which model/cylinder you have.

Bill

 

[blades]

Woodsman when you tried it again did you have that tank cap screwed tight again- systems are of an open design- must be able to breath- so if the hydro tank cap is plugged it can't breath - plenty people miss that little detail, and the same thing applies to the fuel tank on the engine. If it is not able to breath it will starve the engine of fuel particularly under load. Sometimes it is the simple stuff that can really muck up the works

 

[WillysWheeler]

Would it be possible to get a copy of the owners manuals? I sent a PM to Shari, but haven't heard back as of yet... Anyone with a copy please send me a message.

Thanks so much!!!