dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

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Has anybody found carb kits for these? The carb on my 45cc says Walbro but the number WT893 does not seem to match up with Walbro numbers so I wonder if it is also a clone.
 
Well, I checked the stamp several times...it is very hard to see!!!

It sure looks like WT893A.

I'm not seeing WTxxx numbers in the 800's at all on the Walbro website... Maybe I'm just missing it.
I tried WT393 and WT398 but by looking at those exploded views they give you it's kind of hard to picture it in one piece. So I'm not sure if those might be what I have or not.

Or maybe I'm just really messing up that number stamp...
 
That sure looks like it would work. Do you possibly have a link to the vendor?

I know it works. I posted many more pics several pages back. I bought the 58 cc block and upgraded my 45 cc Quake, to 58 cc. This was the China carb that came on the 58 cc engine.

There are 3 things different.
1.) No purge bulb line. You must plug your primer bulb.
2.) Has slotted Adjustment screws. No need for a spline tool, or cutting slots into the splines.
3.) Has no "High idle" after you push choke in. If you look at my pic, you'll see the difference in the throttle/choke linkage plate.

The high idle didn't bother me, the screws were a plus, and I don't use the Primer (another plus to block off), because it's just another line to go bad.

As for the link. Just search 45 cc Chinese chainsaw. The 45, 52, and 58 cc saws all use the same carb, block, plastic, etc. If it fits on a Devon 52 cc, it will fit on a Earthquake 45 cc and vise versa. .
 
I posted several pics of the cases/cylinders showing the comparison several pages back as well.. (should be around Feb 18th, as that's when the pic was taken).

20140218_133610.jpg
 
Okay, I remember those original posts you're referring to. I did look at the kits and other parts for the generic Chinese saws on the website back then.

Well, I ordered a carb kit that seems like it covers a lot of the WT series carbs, so I'll see if it is correct and post the result.

It's for my son's saw...seems like it's starving for fuel and I already replaced the fuel line with no improvement so thought I would rebuild and clean the carb as long as I was pulling it all apart anyway and see what that does.
 
Okay, according to Walbro, the WT893-A is a good number - but only if you happen to live in Japan or China. It was manufactured in Japan for a company in China and never imported into the US. So that part seems to make sense. The good news is that it should use the kit number K27-WAT which does seem to be available here. So I'm going to order one of those and see if it really is the correct one.
 
Ok i was playing whit a project [ Ryobi clone ] strato cylinder, normal piston[2 rings]. Normal carburator and Rioby coil the saw acts like rev limited ; bigger carburator and the same coil it revs like crazy, the carburator is the limiting factor on all these litlle clones. Today i will try the original coil and flywheel [ they look just like the Ryobi originals] and report back.
 
Hey Fellas,
New to AS, and this looks like a good place to go for a little free advice. I have a CS4518, and it absolutely will not start hot. It has spark. I've tried every combination of starting techniques, and it's a no-go. Cold, it starts like a dream. However, at about the 1.5 tank mark, it struggles for fuel, then gives out and will not restart for at least an hour. Am working with manufacturer but I was wondering if anyone here has ever had that problem, and if there is something specific to this brand that I should be looking at.

Also, inspired by posts to MM this unit in the near future. (Another) quick question; what is "getting rid of the base gasket" and what exactly does that do?

Many Thanks in Advance,
Troy
 
Hey Fellas,
New to AS, and this looks like a good place to go for a little free advice. I have a CS4518, and it absolutely will not start hot. It has spark. I've tried every combination of starting techniques, and it's a no-go. Cold, it starts like a dream. However, at about the 1.5 tank mark, it struggles for fuel, then gives out and will not restart for at least an hour. Am working with manufacturer but I was wondering if anyone here has ever had that problem, and if there is something specific to this brand that I should be looking at.

Also, inspired by posts to MM this unit in the near future. (Another) quick question; what is "getting rid of the base gasket" and what exactly does that do?

Many Thanks in Advance,
Troy


Getting rid of the base gasket raises compression in the engine and will help make power. Widening the exhaust port will make a night and day difference on this saw as well.

Your hot start issue might be the very beginning of an ignition coil failure (producing weak spark) or a vapor lock issue. Check out the routing of the fuel lines and look for any areas that may be getting too hot.
 
Thanks MasterMech,
I believe it's definitely a fuel issue. Yesterday fired it up and played around with it for a while. When it gets hot, if I spray some starter fluid in the carb, I can baby it to a start. Though not sure if the fluid is simply cooling it down quicker, or if it's firing through the vacuum. Next insulate fuel lines or reroute? Again, thanks!
 
I know it's been awhile, but in regard to the question about the Walbro carb on the CS4518 (at least on the one I have)... It is a model WT893-A which was manufactured in Japan for a company in China and never imported into the US. But I ordered the kit suggested by Walbro - part number K27-WAT - and that does appear to be correct. It has a couple extra parts but does have everything needed to rebuild this carb.

The actual problem causing the "starving for fuel" problem was a very fine mesh filter screen inside the carb was plugged with crud.
This can be reached without removing the carb from the saw as it is right under the carb top cover (held on by the single large phillips head screw. If you carefully lift this cover off (along with the gasket and membrane) you will be looking right at the screen. I used a razor blade to help separate the gasket from the carb body.
 
'intermittent' short - that is, a short that only occurs irregularly, like when you have a dirty contact or a cold solder joint to keep the short from happening all the time. You might clean the contacts and bingo - you get a hard short when you flip the switch to off and the engine just stops.
 

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