I really recommend adding a sight tube so you know how much is left in the tank.
DIY Auxiliary Oiler?!
- Thread starter SkySkrape
- Start date
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JohnWayne
ArboristSite Member
A little late, but this is what use. It's zip tied to 3/4" square tube so I can move the whole stack together when I move the post for different bars, the square tube nests perfectly in the post. It also adds enough height such that I can still use the full height of the post adjustment without any fussing with the hose. Yellow valve is throttled for flow rate, red valve is the on/off.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
oaktreeguy
ArboristSite Member
Thinking of making an oiler.
Do you guys get a mess with the oil still in the tube continuing to drip out after you finish a cut? I may place the shutoff valve close to the bar.
I turn the whole mill sideways every 1-2 cuts to touch up the chain. Anyone had problems with oil leaking out? I belief as long as the breather hole is small enough this shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks!
Do you guys get a mess with the oil still in the tube continuing to drip out after you finish a cut? I may place the shutoff valve close to the bar.
I turn the whole mill sideways every 1-2 cuts to touch up the chain. Anyone had problems with oil leaking out? I belief as long as the breather hole is small enough this shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks!
yep - it also makes a bit of a mess in a vehicle is the valve leaks.
I did have rubber cap I used to push over the end of the drip tube but it perished - extra valve would be a good idea.
Correct
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
On drip placement-
Cutting edge before the bar tip sproket?
Im going to try a close drip before I decide to drill into bar.
Cutting edge before the bar tip sproket?
Im going to try a close drip before I decide to drill into bar.
Its not super critical provided its on the bar/chain interface after the chain has gone at least 90º around the nose.
I like to match the drip point with the small gaps in between the chain and the bar.
Islandsaw
ArboristSite Lurker
I kind of took the easy way out and ordered the grandberg kit. Drilled the bar which is was tough because drilling a brand new bar and because the metal is super hard to drill. 
After doing that I was in the shop and found an old brake line bolt. So if somebody wanted to do inside the bar without buying the kit or Tracking down just the bolt any wrecker would have tons of these.
After doing that I was in the shop and found an old brake line bolt. So if somebody wanted to do inside the bar without buying the kit or Tracking down just the bolt any wrecker would have tons of these.
To minimized cutting width losses it is possible to drill the hole closer to the nose.
BTW Holes in a bar require two holes, the other for when the bar is flipped.
It's also not necessary to drill the bar at all - a drip feed works just as well and is less likely to get blocked.
BTW Holes in a bar require two holes, the other for when the bar is flipped.
It's also not necessary to drill the bar at all - a drip feed works just as well and is less likely to get blocked.
Islandsaw
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the advice, I do plan on drilling the other side but maybe i can get it closer? This is a better angle of where I drilled. Are you saying it is possible to sneak it in between that last rivet and the sprocket?
Should be possible.
Albert Beerstein
stihl learning
Here's my latest - an old mower fuel tank!
Albert Beerstein
stihl learning
Lester Gillett
ArboristSite Member
Here are how we made our oiler for our mill. not to fancy but hope it will work. Have been so tied up with work haven't had time to try it out. Hope the weather will be better soon so I can try it out.
Lester
Lester
