Dolmar chop saws convert to chainsaws?

[Den]

Came across a very large Dolmar chop saw today. Had absolutely no model identification anywhere. It was newer, had the water line apparatus on it, decomp on the cylinder, full wrap handle. Does anyone know if some Dolmar chop saw models would convert into a chainsaw?


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[oldpartsinasia-joe]

Would you like to post some pics of the chop off saw?

 

[undee70ss]

Chop saws don’t have provisions for a chain oiler

 

[huskihl]

Chop saws don’t have provisions for a chain oiler

Some do. Just depends on the era and manufacturer. Usually the bar mount pad has some material removed to fit the blade arm though

 

[Den]

Don't have pics. Have not bought it yet.
It is not a Dolmar 309 chop saw, which from my research is the only Dolmar that can be converted to a chainsaw. Some chop saws were essentially made with a traditional chainsaw crankcase, and oil pump was deleted, yet oil galleries are still there, and oil pumps can be readily attached.

Chop saws don’t have provisions for a chain oiler

Some do.



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[av8or3]

Neither the 309 nor 343 chop saws have the oil passages drilled. That will have to be done. Most of the holes that are used on a saw will need to be tapped. Including the left hand hole for the chain catcher. You will either have to modify the case or the oil pump for it to work. You will have to add the post for the chain brake pivot and the nail for the spring. I’m doing one right now to build a 143.

 

[av8or3]

Good Sachs Dolmar cases are getting hard to find.

 

[cscltd]

If it is the dolmar/makita/wacker series- I believe they are dedicated units?
plus used cutoffs are usually have worn out cylinders and bearings

 

[Den]

Excellent advice. Thanks again.


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[av8or3]

Here’s a real nice factory case for a 343 chop saw. You can see that it will accept either chain brake type. All the holes except the bar studs have to be tapped. You have to install a roll pin once the oil galleys are done. You have to drill three , the long one from the oil pump to the bar, from the bar into the long passageway and from the pump to the passageway.
Here’s where you start drilling and you aim for the hole used by the r/front cylinder head bolt trying to stay level.
Then you drill these two. They are already started and if you hit the bolt hole (or came very close) just drill down until you can at least nick the main passageway. Install the roll pin and the rest of the case is a piece of cake. On the flywheel side of the case you will have to grind off a bit in order for you to use the replacement cylinders available today. The transfers are bulbous. Lol. At least for the 95cc 143.This is going to be a really nice case and I’m looking forward to using it.

 

[Den]

Nice.


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