Dolmar PS33

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I did not tach the ps-33 but I can a sure you it spins 10 + if not 11 + now. It has good throttle response but I can't say it's a torque monster. I raised/shaped the exhaust port, lowered/shaped the intake, widened the intake block (like you) and touched on the transfers a touch....and the squish of course..

Better tach it but I wasn't able to breech 9K on mine. although I barely touched the exhaust. Just enough to arch it slightly to keep rings from hanging up. To much off the roof of the exhuast will give you more HP/RPM but kill the TQ. I was planning on a hard core tiny TQ machine when I built mine... High torque and low RPM can be recaptured in the sprocket gearing if I want more chain speed. I probably won't ever run over a 14in on mine. If I need 16in of bar it's time for a 5100/5105/520i/540i or bigger. i've been trying to hunt down a 45-50cc cylinder to stick under the hood one one of these for a while but have yet to make one work.
 
Hey Ron, Great to hear from you! That 550xpg must go nice too. I still love the 028 super, great saw to grab! Are you running the 16" 3/8 or the .325 on the 028? I like that saw with the 3/8, specially since you have all those other go to saws. You have a nice collection BTW.

This little PS-33 is a cool little saw, looking forward to running it a little more, only used it for five minutes the other day before I left for the airport.
 
Better tach it but I wasn't able to breech 9K on mine. although I barely touched the exhaust. Just enough to arch it slightly to keep rings from hanging up. To much off the roof of the exhuast will give you more HP/RPM but kill the TQ. I was planning on a hard core tiny TQ machine when I built mine... High torque and low RPM can be recaptured in the sprocket gearing if I want more chain speed. I probably won't ever run over a 14in on mine. If I need 16in of bar it's time for a 5100/5105/520i/540i or bigger. i've been trying to hunt down a 45-50cc cylinder to stick under the hood one one of these for a while but have yet to make one work.

I know about the higher the less torque but shape has a lot to do with your outcome, a lot of people don't understand that. But you are going to sacrifice some torque of course. The trick is in the operator too, some people should never have a ported saw. Me, I keep it sharp all the time and let the saw cruse through without applying too much pressure. Now some of the bigger saws you can press down but these little guys need a little more finesse from the operator.
When I tried the PS-33 the other day I cut some 3"/5" oak/maple and it flew through it. Then I cut a couple of 12"/13" hard wood and it handled it ok. This saw would make a kick azz homeowner saw all day long. And BTW, under a heavy load it sounds like it was pulling 9500 10200 or so. I don't own a tach but I have access to one. When I get back I will put a video together and tach it. Also, I am going to pull that plate I drilled the holes in out of the muffler. Although it does sever as somewhat of a spacer as to not crush the aluminum muffler.
 
Hey Ron, Great to hear from you! That 550xpg must go nice too. I still love the 028 super, great saw to grab! Are you running the 16" 3/8 or the .325 on the 028? I like that saw with the 3/8, specially since you have all those other go to saws. You have a nice collection BTW.

This little PS-33 is a cool little saw, looking forward to running it a little more, only used it for five minutes the other day before I left for the airport.


I've got the .325 on it right now with an 8 pin. I have several bars and a bunch of chain to burn up. The skidded logs on the landing are mighty hard on the chains and most of the .325 is Stihl brand semi chisel.
 
I've got the .325 on it right now with an 8 pin. I have several bars and a bunch of chain to burn up. The skidded logs on the landing are mighty hard on the chains and most of the .325 is Stihl brand semi chisel.
ugh, I hate to think about dirty wood... I have some much semi sitting around b/c I help out bucking logs from time to time with several different people and they are sometimes drug through the mud before they fall under my chain. A summer or two ago the surrounding counties started calling me b/c they have so much wood stacked up everywhere around the bridges (from clearing out log jams on the pylons). Mostly soft woods that fell into river and floated down to the bridges but some hard woods were in there. What a dirty mess; I wished I would have brought the generator my Oregon grinder!
 
There is a Makita 401 already ported with a little carb work to be done over on ********!
http://********.com/showthread.php/1925-Makita-401?p=90301#post90301
 
I,m back from trip to Atlanta, now I can upload the pictures of the muffler. I'll try and get a video tomorrow. I might go back in and take that metal plate out. I'll run it a little the way it is then take it out and see the difference. IMG_2253.jpgIMG_2254.jpg IMG_2255.jpg IMG_2285.JPG
 
I was able to tach it (at a friends shop) today and it was at 12,800 WOT. When I came home I removed that metal plate in the muffler and opened up the center hole a little more..then readjusted the carb. I think it turns more now but can't say for sure because I don't own a tach.

I went over another friends tonight and ran it in frozen knotted 8x8 pine and I think she goes well:
 
yep! looking good. Little screamers they are. Just imagine how a 40cc ported one would do.... :)
 
Dang thats nice.my local farmers co-op has the blue version dsc 32 I believe.they have had it for ages.its priced @ $199.i've contemplated on buying it for years.its much cheaper than the new chinese tanakas they have in @ $249.:rolleyes:
 
Dang thats nice.my local farmers co-op has the blue version dsc 32 I believe.they have had it for ages.its priced @ $199.i've contemplated on buying it for years.its much cheaper than the new chinese tanakas they have in @ $249.:rolleyes:
look around on ebay for a while and find one for $75 in the 40cc version.
 
Will do.haven't ran dolkita stuff yet.kinda like a virgin. Willin' but scared I might like it.:laugh: Really dolkita stuff is non existant around here.bought mom a dolmar weedeater on ebay from bend oregon on ebay last year for mothers day.that is absolutely the only dolmar I've ever touched.:oops: And it felt good.:laugh:
Seriously I remember when lowes got started around here.they sold husky, makita poulan pro and tanaka.dont know what happened.:rolleyes: That was the early to mid 90's.the first lowes we had wasnt much more than a hardware store.
 
Just bumping this to the top - as I had a dolmar 410 arrive today.
A quick check over and I was pretty impressed, 170 psi and 17thou squish with the base gasket intact.
It's running a 15" bar and full chisel 325 chain so that is looking like overkill. I'd love to stay with 325, but I think 3/8lp will be the hot ticket. As it sits it is out cut by my old stihl 011, so it's surgery time to try and find some of the missing ponies.
A quick muff mod and a tune helped, but wasn't huge. It turns 11500rpm now, so I may need to open the muffler further (I left the internal baffle in), but I think the real gains will be on the inside.
With my squish where it is I think a base gasket delete and a pop up are in order and a clean up of the ports. If anyone has some timing numbers to suggest I would love to hear them.
 
Wow! That inlet track is horrible, I had thought about a bigger carb, but looking now I'm not sure there is any point. Can't see how the inlet can flow more than the carb anyway.
There isn't really any room to enlarge the inlet, as I'm at the limit of the gaskets by the time I matched all those mouldings.
 
First off you already have tons of compression and a tight squish and you're already pushing the max RPM for this little saw. These aren't RPM monsters like the 5100/5105 at 14,500rpm so keep that in mind. I did some work on the plastic intake to open it up as much as I could without damaging anything. Widen the intake and the transfers a little and leave squish/pop ups alone.

Also get some .325NK (narrow Kerf). You'll have less drag in the cut and be chipping quicker than 3/8LP.

Lastly, I think somewhere on here I mentioned my clutch drum conversion to a Stihl 026 clutch drum. This allows the use of Stihl "mini" rims so you can put a taller rim on to spin the chain faster. Also allows you to switch back and fourth between .325 and 3/8lp with different rims. Don't be fooled... The OEM clutch drum looks like a rim drive but it isn't! You'll need the shallow 026 clutch drum that went on 024/026's without an adjustable oiler. The rims that went with the adjustable oiler are too deep to fit inside the clutch cover of this series.
 
Back
Top