I made each and every one of these when learning to tune, some great guys on this forum helped me and now I’m passing it on to help others.
Don’t Make These Tuning Mistakes!
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
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Thanks for getting the information out there,Tom.
Temperature and atmospheric pressure affects my own saws most often and that is why I often change the tune on them, standard stock saws do not need as much attention to tune once its set at a safe tune RPM if they are not used at very different altitude conditions. If altitude changes by a thousand feet or more then re tuning is a good practice.
Temperature and atmospheric pressure affects my own saws most often and that is why I often change the tune on them, standard stock saws do not need as much attention to tune once its set at a safe tune RPM if they are not used at very different altitude conditions. If altitude changes by a thousand feet or more then re tuning is a good practice.
Thanks Jerry! Good to give back and help others out to avoid the challenges I came across!
I still tune by ear. But I'll add a few things.
Keep a log of your saws if you change fuel or altitude. That is what are Hi/Lo settings.
If you change the altitude, gas, mix oil, or mix ratio. That way if go to the seashore or up a mountain, maybe you can't get your favorite oil, and/or gas, you have a baseline to change the screws. Some saws I have two/extra carbs for. Same idea here if you have to switch a carb. If you use a saw for cutting vs milling too.
As Tom mentioned, if your saw stops "sounding right", don't keep cutting , track down the problem . I like to have two saws in the woods, so if one gets sick I can sort the issue out later, besides if I pinch a bar and get one stuck and need to liberate it with the other......
It may be a clogged fuel filter or leaky fuel line, an inlet barb on the carb loose, or various vac leaks or carb internals that can damage the saw.
Keep a log of your saws if you change fuel or altitude. That is what are Hi/Lo settings.
If you change the altitude, gas, mix oil, or mix ratio. That way if go to the seashore or up a mountain, maybe you can't get your favorite oil, and/or gas, you have a baseline to change the screws. Some saws I have two/extra carbs for. Same idea here if you have to switch a carb. If you use a saw for cutting vs milling too.
As Tom mentioned, if your saw stops "sounding right", don't keep cutting , track down the problem . I like to have two saws in the woods, so if one gets sick I can sort the issue out later, besides if I pinch a bar and get one stuck and need to liberate it with the other......
It may be a clogged fuel filter or leaky fuel line, an inlet barb on the carb loose, or various vac leaks or carb internals that can damage the saw.
Good tips Tom, thanks for putting this out there.
I'm with you on using a tach. It is a guide for starting adjusting point. Each saw is going to have different behaviors and running adjustments necessary from stated factory numbers.
I'm with you on using a tach. It is a guide for starting adjusting point. Each saw is going to have different behaviors and running adjustments necessary from stated factory numbers.
I'm down to one adjustable carb chainsaw the Stihl 361 as the rest have M-Tronic. One should still know how a saw should run and sound on the M-Tronics to stop using and find the problem the same with a adjustable carb saw.
