DR jumping out again...

[Patrick62]

Greetings!
I have been sort of busy lately.... hence the silence from me

T'was out splitting a pile of stuff for the bundles this evening, and going along at a brisk pace with the K34, and plopped a nice block on there. Stalled, and jumping outta gear.
Turned the block around, and it did it again. Block might be a little solid, but NOTHING that this puppy should not be able to handle. Having seen this before, I am going to assume that it is stripped out (again).

This time around I am seriously going to consider getting parts and do my own replacement. Last time the "shop" replaced the pinion. This time I want to replace the rack as well.

I have been keeping the rack/pinion greased religiously!

Really, is splitting dry lodgepole pine that hard?? I have run 25 or 30 cords across this think since it was fixed last January.... Should have gotta super split

 

[Patrick62]

I find it interesting that poking around the DR website that they changed the SKU number on the pinion.
It was a 29454, and now they list a 34835

Yanked the covers off this morning. I am sort of wondering if my rack is OK, just the pinion takes the wear?
While I am at it, the "safety interlock" is going to be deleted. Running it with bungee cord but now that I am no doubt about it past warranty I might as well delete it.

If I split 25 cords on a $120 pinion.... works out to almost $5 per cord cost of repairs

 

[Sandhill Crane]

First, can you tell if the pinion is bad by pulling the cover off and maybe pulling the rack out. I've done it on the SS when messing with the push plate bearings. Not so bad to do, and then you can get a better look.
Second; once you have a good idea of the problem, as in a damaged part and not an adjustment problem, give DR a call and "ask them what you should do with THEIR machine". Their name is on it. They might offer to fix it...or send you parts if it is a recurring problem and just off warranty.
Third; fix it and sell it to someone who does a few cords a year.
When I go out to split wood, the last thing I want to do is wrench on the equipment. Of course it happens, but it is the exception.
If you delete the safety interlock, it might be harder to sell.

 

[Patrick62]

Thanks for reply Sandhill,
I did autopsy this afternoon. took the thing apart.
The rack is stripped out right where it was engaged when working 16" stuff. Teeth worn off half way... which was a bit of interesting info. Pinion is "servicable" condition which isn't what I expected to find. The very edges of the teeth are chipped a little but nothing severe. Noticed something odd, the roller that presses the rack onto the pinion seemed to have a bit of play in it.... Took that apart and discovered the problem. The idler had worn into its axle bolt. A slightly cheesy design. Riding on a little shoulder on one side but threads on other side! This idler has a very heavy load imparted upon it because the gears will try and kick out with significant force! Also noted that there is NO way to compensate for wear by adjusting the depth of engage.... Cheesy?

So what caused my failure here? The bolt was worn into by the roller because it was assembled dry, no lube. The max engagement we had was perhaps 1/2 of the depth of teeth. A substantial loss of strength! I think if the idler is correct then we would be at 3/4 or better engage, and much more likely to survive. This machine was sold to me new without being properly lubricated (dry) and that probably caused the first breakdown (fixed warranty). and I was then instructed to grease the rack regulary. which I did... Evidently the dry idler was not caught on first breakdown.

I am going to be on the phone tomorrow with them. I will need a rack and going to replace the pinion just on account of because. The idler is going to be replaced and I will pick me out a nice smooth bolt to assemble the thing with plenty of grease.

Uncertain that IF all parts are in good repair, and well lubricated that it can survive. The track record isn't good at the moment. I have maybe 50 cords behind me on this thing. When lifting the flywheels off it dawned on me just how out of proportion the inertia vs strength of those gears is. Some engineer probably ran the calculation I am certain. It don't fit into my perception of strength of steel gears!

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Now we are getting to see the bigger picture. Any chance of using a brass tube or bushing and smaller bolt, or a pin with cotter pin for the engagement roller. The new SuperSplit web site now has a schematic for parts. Maybe check out what they are showing.

 

[Patrick62]

A couple phone calls, couple emails with pictures of damaged parts, and new stuff is on the way.
Nobody got terribly excited about me doing my own repairs on this machine, and the parts are being replaced under warranty.
Excellent customer service even if the machinery isn't so great.

I also got a reply to my email to the SS guys. If I can earn enough $$ this summer I really should get a super split. Sell the DR machine to someone else... of coarse by that point I will have all the bugs worked out of it!

 

[zogger]

A couple phone calls, couple emails with pictures of damaged parts, and new stuff is on the way.
Nobody got terribly excited about me doing my own repairs on this machine, and the parts are being replaced under warranty.
Excellent customer service even if the machinery isn't so great.

I also got a reply to my email to the SS guys. If I can earn enough $$ this summer I really should get a super split. Sell the DR machine to someone else... of coarse by that point I will have all the bugs worked out of it!

Ya really after you have it improved and modified, it might be worth something to DR to get it back and look at it.

 

[Patrick62]

Brown Santa brought me a box today from DR power. The replacement "bolt" for idler was slightly better than what the machine was made with... not good enough for me. Hardware store and a 3" grade 8 bolt, and shorten the threads so that the idler will run on shaft.
Re-assembled the machine, and grease on everything that moves. Adjusted the engage to specs (smirch tighter) and it runs nice and smooth. Splits wood, and engages nicely.

We shall see how long it will survive before going TU again